Other than cost? None that I know of. And while it isn't cheap the items included do make up for it.
Right I’m assuming with that kit you are paying for quite a bit of convenience of not having to figure it all out yourself. I feel like I’ve seen Blaine say that kit is against his build principle but I’m not quite sure why.
 
Right I’m assuming with that kit you are paying for quite a bit of convenience of not having to figure it all out yourself. I feel like I’ve seen Blaine say that kit is against his build principle but I’m not quite sure why.
It’s not an easy mod by any stretch. I would certainly not call it convenient, and you still have to largely figure it out for yourself. You replace the front cross bar, relocate the track bar mount, remove and replace the gear mount, redo the steering shaft linkage including adding a heim joint and mount. But the most challenging issue is getting everything to clear - for me it took quite a bit of trial and error. I got a lot of experience tack welding - and cutting tack welds. It was infinitely more difficult than I imagined.

if you are interested in more detail, check out my build thread over on Jeepforum.com. There is a table of contents on the first post which will point you to it.
 
It’s not an easy mod by any stretch. I would certainly not call it convenient, and you still have to largely figure it out for yourself. You replace the front cross bar, relocate the track bar mount, remove and replace the gear mount, redo the steering shaft linkage including adding a heim joint and mount. But the most challenging issue is getting everything to clear - for me it took quite a bit of trial and error. I got a lot of experience tack welding - and cutting tack welds. It was infinitely more difficult than I imagined.

if you are interested in more detail, check out my build thread over on Jeepforum.com. There is a table of contents on the first post which will point you to it.
Sweet thanks! I didn’t mean it was easy, I meant it was easier than cutting and fabbing those pieces on your own lol. I’ve heard front stretches are an absolute bitch no matter how you go about it
 
With all of the Black Friday sales going on, I am considering pulling the trigger on Motobilts Coilover hoops and cross brace. I'm just a little concerned about its size. It looks like it's pretty tight against the radiator, and the intake for the LS. Also, it looks like it locates the upper Coilover mounts which may or may not work for my stretch. Like everything, I'm sure I can modify it to make it work but not sure I want to spend that kinda money for some bling.

But yeah, it does look pretty fucking awesome

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I chose not to get the motobilt stuff and ordered another set of poly towers instead. To many variables.

I made a small bender for the press.
PXL_20211203_222857974.jpg


And picked up a plasma cutter. I've never used one before, so I watched a few u tube vids and got to cutting. This thing burned through 3/16" like styrofoam
PXL_20211203_222427994.jpg

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And then I fabricated up some plates for the rear frame section that had been raised

PXL_20211203_222922171.jpg
 
The rear is wrapping up to be about 7". I'm going to stretch the front as much as I can without going full hydro. Hopefully 3" or so
I’m in the same boat, I want the max amount of stretch I can get out of my front end as possible on my YJ build.

i’m just not willing to move a gas tank/fuel cell inside the tub, as I want to drive it on the street and have my kids ride in it one day.
 
I chose not to get the motobilt stuff and ordered another set of poly towers instead. To many variables.

I made a small bender for the press.
View attachment 294114
Weld the assembly to a flat plate as a base. Otherwise it will flatten out, and perhaps break, when you try to bend any thicker stock.

And welcome to the plasma club. Those things are a game changer in metal fab.
 
And burned it in...
PXL_20211205_194546190.jpg


Inside. You can see the bullseye where the cross-member will go.

PXL_20211205_224236180.jpg


You can also see the little pie shaped discoloration from welding the plate to the existing frame bits, kinda link an internal brace. I sanded it so the heat marks are gone, but the mill scale is flaking off.

PXL_20211205_224258049.jpg


Duplicate the other side and the butt crack is gone forever. I kinda like the blocky-ness of the boxed frame
 
The one of the left is a Ultimate Dana 44 complete axle housing. It uses a Dana/Spicer Ultimate Dana 44 center section.

The one on the right is a factory JL Rubicon Dana 44 with FAD
But is it the ultimate Dana 44 from the JK era, or the newer ultimate Dana 44 Advantek for the JK's?

Just curious since there looks to be a big difference in the casting for the center. When I picked up my JL 44 rear I was surprised by how thin the casting was in some places on the bottom. I looked for a while trying to find a place selling just a Dana 44 Advantek center section, but never found one. If it's possible to get just an Advantek center and have it be a beefier casting that would be Sweet