Band saw? And are those different material from the big bumps in my picture (not the hockey pucks)? I think that's probably a RE bump.I would go further, but I also used hard plastic body lift pucks that I cut to length.
Rear Spring Relocation Without Adding Height?
- Thread starter notnsuv
- Start date
Yours looked like plastic. The Zone body lift pucks are also plastic. I used a table saw. But a band saw is safer.
These work well for the front and rear lowers.
https://liftkits4less.com/zone-offr...BxKse7upc_RjUxXxXi64brkWaMt2PN1xoCiL8QAvD_BwE
And these for the rear uppers.
https://liftkits4less.com/zone-offr...xNo8owSV6aiwFidBdBEn-O7BrCfbpKAhoC26wQAvD_BwE
A pair of each or 1 makes 2?
Dunno how 'dead-eye' I'll be with round stock in a band saw. Creative clamping I guess. I have a metal blade in my chop saw!
Thinking about it more and knowing what I know now, I would extend the front lowers with the 3" diameter; and split the rear extension between the upper and lower. 3" on the bottom and 2" on top to lower the cup.
One per.
Were I to use a bandsaw, I would set up a fence or a stop block for the thickness. Then cut and roll, never going more than halfway through. Nibble away until cut.
Oh crap! Is there a cup in the rear? Only ordered 2 for those missing in front. Maybe the rear cups are still there with the relo bracket.
Time for a look/see.
Another topic but didn't want to hijack your build thread. I have AntiRock. I noticed your concern about that with your "affinity for soft shocks", then you went to SwayLoc. Of course, you got me re-thinking on the BM shocks with AR.
Dang, I'm all over the place.
Another topic but didn't want to hijack your build thread. I have AntiRock. I noticed your concern about that with your "affinity for soft shocks", then you went to SwayLoc. Of course, you got me re-thinking on the BM shocks with AR.
Dang, I'm all over the place.
My springs are 4.5" RE. Ride height after removing ACOS is yet to be measured.
8525 is what I'm looking at after cycling with nearly identical size Bilstein 5100s.
Thanks.
8525 is what I'm looking at after cycling with nearly identical size Bilstein 5100s.
Thanks.
Hijack my build thread? We can't let that happen!
I don't really like soft shocks. I just don't like jittery shocks more.
And the AR is a very good sway bar. But for a rig that also sees a lot of street use in addition to offroad, the SL is better.
Last edited:
Are the formerly 'everybody's favorite' Rancho 5000x a 'tweener' soft/jittery?Hijack my build thread? We can't let that happen!
I don't really like soft shocks. I just don't like jittery shocks more.
And the AR is a very good sway bar. But for a rig that also sees a lot of street use in addition to offroad, the SL is better.
I'll be just fine once these 5100 are gone... unless it's the springs that make it ride so rough.
Based on my experiences, the 5000x is soft and mushy. The 5100 transfers the annoying small road events more than they should, but beyond that they are a decent shock.Are the formerly 'everybody's favorite' Rancho 5000x a 'tweener' soft/jittery?
I'll be just fine once these 5100 are gone... unless it's the springs that make it ride so rough.
The two (three) that I would like to drive are the Skyjacker BlackMax, the KYB Monomax and the KYB silver bodies.
The bottom line is that people need to experiment more. As well as understand the differences better.
All shocks suck until you get tuned outboarded shocks. That being said ranchos do okay for me. The rear shocks suck more than the front ones do but it’s tolerable. Would definitely like to outboard the rear soon.Are the formerly 'everybody's favorite' Rancho 5000x a 'tweener' soft/jittery?
I'll be just fine once these 5100 are gone... unless it's the springs that make it ride so rough.
As for the trackbar hitting the diff, the rockjock trackbar has more bend than the rubicon express one. We just replaced a rubicon express trackbar with a rockjock on my dads rig and it helped clear the diff
I'll live with what I choose. Outboarding is way down on my list unless I learn to weld and a whole lot more. Would like a ride in a heep with it done, tho'.
That's good news. I'm hoping getting rid of the fat G2 cover will cure the interference but if not, I'll call RJ. At least there's a light at the end of my current tunnel.
Thanks
To the original question in this thread. I've found a few options if I decide this has to happen. Both Rusty's and GenRight are adjustable.
https://www.rustysoffroad.com/build...stys-rear-coil-spring-relocation-bracket.html
https://www.artecindustries.com/tjrcoilmounts
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ-and-LJ-Rear-Coil-Spring-Relocation-Kit-_p_253.html
https://genright.com/products/rear-coil-spring-correction-kit.html
https://www.rustysoffroad.com/build...stys-rear-coil-spring-relocation-bracket.html
https://www.artecindustries.com/tjrcoilmounts
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ-and-LJ-Rear-Coil-Spring-Relocation-Kit-_p_253.html
https://genright.com/products/rear-coil-spring-correction-kit.html
I think I'll give the KYB Monomax a shot when it's time. I found them with p/n you posted on another thread. Fortunately, I took a pic of the screen so don't have to research the thread. 565096/565097. Looks like they match closely the length I'll need (still have to cycle the rear). They're either back-ordered 'til January or only front available the places I looked, so I'll keep trying until I'm ready to roll.
A guy in that conversation said he liked the KYB on front but went back to Ranchos on the rear, but he liked them on the rear on a JK or such. With the LJ being heavier, and my tendency to 'load up' they might work on both ends for me. I'm willing to take a shot and probably will be fine with only the 5100s to compare.
I think I'm finally seeing what you're asking. Are you referring to the tire and fender picture? Thinking a shorter shock and less bump would allow more uptravel and get the tire closer to the fender?
I'll try to get after it again Saturday but will wait on new tire/wheel combo for final cycle. Although still 35s I'd rather get the final product in the equation before I make shock choices.
I did find a source for KYB shocks but if the p/n changes then I'm not sure. And you know I'll be asking for guidance on shock length selection when the time comes.
I guess there has to be something from this list that will work. In the 965 p/n zone.
https://www.kyb.com/resources/technical-information/dimensions/
Last edited:
Just pointing out that you might get more overall travel with a shorter shock since most can't use all the length available anyway.
IMO, you're more likely to stuff one than max one out. Plus, if it's at max droop, then there's probably very little usable weight/traction on that tire.
Similar threads
