Stock spring rates

StG58

TJ Guru
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Having a heck of a time getting straight answers on what stock spring rates are available for TJ's. My SE has the lightest springs that they stuck under a TJ, and it's just too easy off-road to get the suspension onto the bump stops with any amount of gear in it. If anyone has a line on a reliable chart or list of spring part numbers and what the spring rate is, I would appreciate it.

If I could gain 100-150# of capacity in the front and maybe 200# in the back, that would be ideal. It would be one more thing nailed down on the little SE.
 
Found truncated part numbers for TJ springs and a list of applications, but it seems that the factory used a range of springs in each model, and also had left and right springs for the later TJ's. It turns out this is a dry run anyway because true factory springs are no longer available except on the used market. Lots of time and work for no usable result. Here's the list anyway:

TJ Model
FRONT/REAR PART NUMBERS
SE
126/103 soft top
127/104 hard top
X
127/104 soft top
128/105 hard top
Sport
128/104 soft top
129/105 hard top
Sahara
129/105 soft top
130/106 hard top
Rubicon
129/105 soft top
130/106 hard top

The LJ's and having a tow package seem to bump the spring rate up a bit, sometimes. Only the Chrysler suspension engineers know for sure what is going on with TJ springs,and they aren't talking.

Moog and Omix Adda have "stock" springs available, but the caveat there is they come in one generic spring rate, or at least playing with the parts selectors didn't change the resulting part numbers.

The good news is that there is an obscure German spring manufacturer (obscure in the Jeep world anyway) that looks like they have exactly what I was looking for. They are really big in the lowering and performance market and have a good reputation in that arena. H&R P/N 52107 is for the Jeep TJ. Those coupled with Bilstein 5100's (24-186810 front and 24-186827 rear) look to be worth more research.
 
H&R? I'd hardly consider them obscure. I've run H&R springs on all the German cars I've ever owned. Very nice stuff!
 
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I picked up a set of Rubi takeoffs about 2 years ago and they did a nice job on my SE after installing the winch. I picked up one inch with the extra weight on the front bumper.
 
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H&R? I'd hardly consider them obscure. I've run H&R springs on all the German cars I've ever owned. Very nice stuff!
They are only obscure in the TJ world, Chris. Very high end if you're into euro-coupes. The few folks that run the TJ springs are thrilled with them.
 
I picked up a set of Rubi takeoffs about 2 years ago and they did a nice job on my SE after installing the winch. I picked up one inch with the extra weight on the front bumper.
But then the issue becomes how do I get a set of springs to balance out the back? Looked into that and their is some funkiness involved with getting a balanced set of spring rates.
 
But then the issue becomes how do I get a set of springs to balance out the back? Looked into that and their is some funkiness involved with getting a balanced set of spring rates.
The reason they are funky is because the rears are a true progressive spring and have a true progressive spring rate which is hard to tell someone what is because the weight over the spring determines what the rate at that moment is.

A true progressive spring is made from a specific length of wire that is tapered over the whole length and then wound into a coil. The TJ rear springs do not have the same diameter wire at the pigtails that they do in the middle coils. I've had several versions on a spring dyno and they really are progressive.

I suspect they were done that way to compensate for the cargo area and passengers and trying to keep the rear from sagging as little as possible to keep the headlights better pointed at the highway. Pure speculation on the headlight part, not on the sagging part.
 
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I never even knew H&R made springs for the TJ!
I stumbled across them by accident on another forum. Some guy (isn't it always some guy?) put a set in because he got a good deal on them from America's Tire or somebody and was happy with the ride and performance. Of course, that led down the rabbit hole of the internet. Found about a dozen other folks who had plugged them in with various shock combinations and they all liked them, sooo...

This is from the H&R web site:
Spring Rate 101. by Roland Graef.
Suspension customers shopping for aftermarket springs will sometimes resort to shopping for springs by spring rate. While the rate of the spring is a measure of spring performance, it is not the only influence of vehicle performance and handling, especially when the chassis is lowered. There are many factors that come into play when it comes to suspension tuning.

When does a higher rate spring feel softer than a lower rate spring and a lower rate feel harder than higher rate spring? These differences occur when you lower the chassis and the bumpstop is trimmed or not trimmed. The bumpstop acts like a small progressive spring (see Micro Cellular Jounce Bumper). A lower rate spring that lowers the ride height of the chassis with no bumpstop trimming, making the bumpstop more active, would feel about as stiff as a higher rate lowering spring with the bumpstop trimmed, making the bumpstop less active. Also, the amount of ride height lowering also affects suspension rate.

Since there is no standard for quoting spring rates, most manufacturers just quote numbers without any regard for spring function and spring rate ramping—spring rate ramping is the difference in ride feel between springs of different shapes with the same spring rates under suspension compression. The only way to truly compare spring rates is by using working spring rate numbers.
When a manufacturer quotes a progressive spring rate such as 80#, 150#, 225#, and the stock rate is a linear 135#, the new spring looks super progressive. Visually it seems to start off softer than stock and gets progressively stiffer as needed. But what these rates don’t tell you is that the chassis is already sitting at the 170# rate at loaded height. This means the "working spring rate" is actually 170# to 225#. The lower spring rate range below 170# is the dead or inactive spring coils which do nothing but give the spring tension at full rebound. Note that this does not take into consideration the bump stop engagement and their effect on chassis ride height with the installed lowering springs. This is only one example of why using the "working spring rate" is more accurate when making comparisons. It is also important to have already driven on a different rate than stock to feel the difference before making any comparisons based on the quoted rates.

There are many other factors that influence suspension rate that include, but are not limited to: Shock dampening values, tires, bushings, and of course the most important "personal driving style".

Keep in mind that if you're shopping for springs based only on spring rates, then you are not taking into account a number of other variables that affect ride height, performance, and comfort.

And:

H&R Special Springs are high quality products—they will not set or sag, they are designed and manufactured to be strong, resilient, and more durable than other automotive coil springs. All H&R springs are crafted from a special (hf) 54SiCr6 spring steel to ensure premium quality and performance. H&R Springs are shot-peened to increase their life by more than 200%. All production is completed in-house so product quality is ensured. Each spring is 100% tested before leaving H&R’s ISO9001 certified production facility in Germany.

H&R was also talking about setting the coils and their heat treating process. At $100 a spring, retail, it would seem that they have put some time and energy into their process and design. They also go into setting scrub radius and bump stop lengths on their web site. It's more for the lowering crowd, but the discussion is applicable if you substitute lifting for lowering.

I'm intrigued enough to explore it further.

Oh, and most, if not all of their springs have progressive rates. True progressive, not sales and marketing pitch progressive.
 
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I always loved the H&R springs on my other vehicles. What lift height are the springs for?
 
I always loved the H&R springs on my other vehicles. What lift height are the springs for?
H&R says that you get 1" of lift out of them. I just got done reading a 33 page discussion on another forum that was nothing but H&R springs. It seems that almost everyone that has them installed is getting right at 1.25" in front and really close to or just over 1" in the rear. ( plus up to .5" in some cases) The Bilstein 5100's are also highly praised with these springs. The combo seems to work out really well for everything from city street to washboard roads to some pretty technical stuff in Utah and Colorado. Most say to give the install about 500 - 1,000 miles to settle in before complaining about anything. No bump stop extensions needed in front and around a half inch in the rear. This setup with the Currie antirock in the front has been called "golden" by several of the commenters. Lots of 31x10.50 and 265/75R16 tires used with no issues. One guy put on a 1.25" body lift, tummy tuck and runs 33x12.50's. He loves the setup, and hasn't reported any issues keeping up with more highly modified Jeeps. There is a kit for LJ's as well, but it is a different part number from the TJ kit, so be aware of that.

This is looking better all the time. Oh, and the customer service is reported to be exemplary from the H&R rep in the Seattle area.

Edited to add: Tire Rack can deliver this setup, H&R springs and Bilstein shocks, for $544 with free shipping right now.
 
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So, for the price of a good set of 5 tires, you can put H&R 52107 springs, Bilstein 5100 0-2" shocks and a Currie antirock in front and be well set up for tire sizes up to about 32". Plus whatever 1/2" bump stop extensions are for the rears. That's a LOT of bang for the buck!
 
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Bilstein and H&R... That was the combination I used on ever badass BMW and VW I've ever owned! What a wonderful ride.
 
So, for the price of a good set of 5 tires, you can put H&R 52107 springs, Bilstein 5100 0-2" shocks and a Currie antirock in front and be well set up for tire sizes up to about 32". Plus whatever 1/2" bump stop extensions are for the rears. That's a LOT of bang for the buck!

I say DO IT!
 
Pulling the trigger on a pair of Bilstein 5100's for the back. P/N 24-186827 for 0" - 2" lift. The nice thing is that I can piece this thing together over a matter of weeks, and it will still work out just fine. I need to do shocks anyway. Toasted the ones that are on there now.

Gotta love doing your research!
 
Yep! And you'll love the Bilstein 5100s! I love the way those things ride.
 
PartsGeek (dot) com lists "1997-2005 Jeep TJ Coil Spring Set - Rear - Moog 3229" as replacements for stock TJ rear springs. This can't be completely accurate, given the range of rear spring part numbers that Jeep has for different trim/versions of the TJ. PartsGeek also has "fitment notes" that shows a table which claims that this spring fits all models from '97 to '05. In this case, I think that "it fits.." is similar to how many different tires "fit" a 15" rim, but the ones I'd want for street use are totally wrong for mudding or rock climbing.

Anyway, this is a starting point. I looked up the 3229 spring on Moog's website- they list a free height of 11.28", an installed (loaded) height of 8", a spring rate of 200 lb/in, a (static) load of 653 lbs (this would be roughly the sprung weight of each rear corner), 5.6" I.D., and 0.62" bar diameter.

So, the first conclusion I can make is that the list of truncated part numbers given above, is NOT a list of spring rates. They might be proportional to the actual factory spring rates.. they might be actual spring rates in some other unit system .. but I would GUESS that the truncated part numbers are simply sequential I.D. numbers applied to parts with different specified spring rates.

Beyond that, the H&R 52107 springs are advertised as providing 1" of lift, which is what the OP said he was looking for in the first place. So, the original question seems to have been answered - I'm just posting here to add the Moog data as a baseline reference point for stock TJ springs.

I found this thread while searching for spring rate info for my TJ - I need to reinforce my rear suspension for towing capacity, but I don't want to sabotage the ride while not towing. I'm thinking of replacing the rear lower control arms with a pair of leaf springs which would be unloaded (operating only as control arms) in daily operation, but would provide some extra, progressive spring rate support when the trailer is added. (The trailer carries a 19' boat, the boat weighs 2125# with another 600# in the trailer. It's set up for about 250# of tongue weight...)
 
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Love this thread. Thanks @StG58 . I'm beginning to upgrade my suspension and am a complete rookie, so this is very helpful.

I know this thread is old, but I am wondering:
  • Did you do it? How did it work out? Any other lessons learned in the process?
  • Does H&R make a spring that doesn't provide any lift? I can look of course, but thought you might know.
Also, for @Chris : is it safe to say that you now like Rancho RS5000Xs even more than these Bilstein 5100s?

I guess these questions show that I'm interested in exploring whether I can go with H&R with a pair of stock-height Ranchos. Will look up H&R later today.
 
Love this thread. Thanks @StG58 . I'm beginning to upgrade my suspension and am a complete rookie, so this is very helpful.

I know this thread is old, but I am wondering:
  • Did you do it? How did it work out? Any other lessons learned in the process?
  • Does H&R make a spring that doesn't provide any lift? I can look of course, but thought you might know.
Also, for @Chris : is it safe to say that you now like Rancho RS5000Xs even more than these Bilstein 5100s?

I guess these questions show that I'm interested in exploring whether I can go with H&R with a pair of stock-height Ranchos. Will look up H&R later today.
Yes, I wouldn’t run a Bilstein 5100 anymore. The Rancho RS5000X rides much better.
 
Found truncated part numbers for TJ springs and a list of applications, but it seems that the factory used a range of springs in each model, and also had left and right springs for the later TJ's. It turns out this is a dry run anyway because true factory springs are no longer available except on the used market. Lots of time and work for no usable result. Here's the list anyway:

TJ Model
FRONT/REAR PART NUMBERS
SE
126/103 soft top
127/104 hard top
X
127/104 soft top
128/105 hard top
Sport
128/104 soft top
129/105 hard top
Sahara
129/105 soft top
130/106 hard top
Rubicon
129/105 soft top
130/106 hard top

The LJ's and having a tow package seem to bump the spring rate up a bit, sometimes. Only the Chrysler suspension engineers know for sure what is going on with TJ springs,and they aren't talking.

Moog and Omix Adda have "stock" springs available, but the caveat there is they come in one generic spring rate, or at least playing with the parts selectors didn't change the resulting part numbers.

The good news is that there is an obscure German spring manufacturer (obscure in the Jeep world anyway) that looks like they have exactly what I was looking for. They are really big in the lowering and performance market and have a good reputation in that arena. H&R P/N 52107 is for the Jeep TJ. Those coupled with Bilstein 5100's (24-186810 front and 24-186827 rear) look to be worth more research.

Other than interior rocker carpet and ABS, what extra weight does a Sahara have over a Sport? Or does the Sahara sit a little higher to make room for the 30" tire option? Returning my TJ Sahara to stock and finding Sport springs is a lot easier.