The Official Tummy Tuck FAQ Thread

Chris said:
I know, none of them are bolt on and go.

And admittedly, this is why I've avoided a tummy tuck for so long. Part of me wants to do it, but then I realize I don't crawl in the rocks like Jerry and Blaine do, so in all reality it's probably not necessary. But god, the transfer cases on these Rubicon models hang SO low!
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Same exact thing with me. In fact, I started buying the (more affordable) parts many years ago, but stopped. I haven't NEEDED it at all. That Rubicon skid though. My god, man. If I remember correctly, I only have 8 inches of ground clearance.

I feel like there's got to be a family sedan somewhere out there with that level of clearance. 😆
 
bedhed said:
Same exact thing with me. In fact, I started buying the (more affordable) parts many years ago, but stopped. I haven't NEEDED it at all. That Rubicon skid though. My god, man. If I remember correctly, I only have 8 inches of ground clearance.

I feel like there's got to be a family sedan somewhere out there with that level of clearance. 😆
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Yes, that factory Rubicon skid is a joke how low it hangs. They fixed this with the JKs of course, but on the TJs I feel like it was an area where they rushed it to save money, which is probably true to some degree or another.
 
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I agree. I feel like that rushing may have trickled down from that of the OPDA design as well. But, that's a subject for another thread and time.😆😒
 
So I think I’m at a crossroad.
Some background. I have a 2005 LJ Rubicon. I did a OME 2.5 “ SL. 1.25 BL, 1” Brown Dog motor lift, 33” Duratracks. I just picked up a squeak in my ujoint, the one just in front of the transfer case.
Should I jump into a TT now or just replace the u-joints on the front drive shaft or do all the u-joints on both drive shafts? I don’t really have the time to do the full TT now, but I also don’t want to toss out new u-joints when I eventually do the TT.
Any recommendations? All new u-joints, just new ones for the front, just the squeaky one, or a full TT conversion now?
 
If it was me and if I expect to do a TT in the relatively near future just not now, I would replace any bad U Joints to prevent additional damage now.

Bad U Joints can destroy yokes, stub shaft ears, inner shaft ears, driveshaft ears, etc.

If you know you have U Joint issues, and you don't want to destroy related parts or have a catastrophic failure, I strongly recommend you inspect all U Joints and replace any that show signs of wear.
 
Ive finally decided what I will be doing after changing my mind 1000+times on what I want to do with the build plan. I will be doing a near full tuck with jb conversions HD SS Sye w/1310 cv yoke, custom driveshaft by a local shop, ucf ultra high clearance aluminum skid, Savvy/currie rear double adjustable uppers/lowers(all 8 later on). I currently have the jks 1" MML installed along with a savvy 1.25 BL. I am sure I will need to do some exhaust work, but will I have to cut the tub at all? How is the process of doing that?
 
DylanM345 said:
Ive finally decided what I will be doing after changing my mind 1000+times on what I want to do with the build plan. I will be doing a near full tuck with jb conversions HD SS Sye w/1310 cv yoke, custom driveshaft by a local shop, ucf ultra high clearance aluminum skid, Savvy/currie rear double adjustable uppers/lowers(all 8 later on). I currently have the jks 1" MML installed along with a savvy 1.25 BL. I am sure I will need to do some exhaust work, but will I have to cut the tub at all? How is the process of doing that?
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No, you shouldn’t need to cut the tub at all. Howeveryou may need to dent it a little around where the transfer case is. I put a crow bar between my TC and tub and jacked it up to dent.
 
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rasband said:
No, you shouldn’t need to cut the tub at all. However you may need to dent it a little around where the transfer case is. I put a crow bar between my TC and tub and jacked it up to dent.
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dent it up into the jeep or dent it down towards the ground. Also what would need to be done if I were cutting the tub
 
I don’t think you’ll have to do any denting or cutting. Mine with the Savvy TT has 0 dents and 0 cuts. I think only rubicons need the extra clearance because of the 241 T-case.
 
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jodomcfrodo said:
I don’t think you’ll have to do any denting or cutting. Mine with the Savvy TT has 0 dents and 0 cuts. I think only rubicons need the extra clearance because of the 241 T-case.
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The JKS body won't help things as much as a real body lift would.
 
jodomcfrodo said:
I don’t think you’ll have to do any denting or cutting. Mine with the Savvy TT has 0 dents and 0 cuts. I think only rubicons need the extra clearance because of the 241 T-case.
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Same results for my install, no cutting and no denting needed
 
rasband said:
Why do you want to cut your tub so bad?
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Sorry, let me rephrase that. I meant to ask, what would someone be doing for them to need to cut the tub. I dont want to cut mine, im just curious what someone would be doing that needs theirs to be cut
 
jjvw said:
The JKS body won't help things as much as a real body lift would.
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I got the savvy 1.25 body lift and the JKS 1" motor mount lift, I was sure not to go with polyurethane for the body lift
 
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DylanM345 said:
Sorry, let me rephrase that. I meant to ask, what would someone be doing for them to need to cut the tub. I dont want to cut mine, im just curious what someone would be doing that needs theirs to be cut
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If you ever need to, you’ll know. The common cases are for stretches, massive tires (>35”), or forcing a big tire into a build that isn’t lifted enough for said tire. I’m sure MrBlaine would be aware of more reasons...
 
Cutting the body shouldn't start to become a solution to a problem until 35s. Even then, you have to get pretty deep into a build to find good reasons to do so.
 
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jjvw said:
Cutting the body shouldn't start to become a solution to a problem until 35s. Even then, you have to get pretty deep into a build to find good reasons to do so.
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if I did plan on going 35s one day, why does that need the tub cut for a tt?
 
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