Not personally but this makes sense as to why i keep seeing these holley sniper setups at the summit racing scratch&dent for so cheap....
Trail_Krawler & Trail_Willys
- Thread starter kmas0n
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The Sniper EFI systems are known to be problematic. I helped a buddy with one on his 1st gen bronco. Three things we discovered: 1. All grounds must go to the battery; 2. You need to run high end spiral core plug wires. If you don't, you can scramble the ECU; and 3. You need resistor plugs. He moved away from the Sniper to a Terminator X and we were able to make it work easily, with no more reliability or longevity issues.
kmas0n
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I have done all 3 of the things you mentioned. I'll consider the Terminator... But I'm going to be honest... A VW TDI is sounding better and better by the day. We've all seen Redeyegarage's swapped tdi and drooled. I've been watching marketplace for a bit for a good donor car. That and a t18...
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That would be a great little but mighty powerplant for sure !
A mechanical injection tdi would probably double its range offroad too.
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Oh, and I may have found a T18 transmission... Going to look at it Sunday.
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Yeah, the crawl ratio of the t84/d18 is terrible. It's about 28:1. It's difficult to go slower than 5mph.
The 6.3 Granny gear will bring the crawl ratio up to 60:1, which is way better. I have a very early d18 t case, so it's only got a 1.97 low range... If I swap in a newer d18 with a 2.43 low range my crawl gear will be 75:1. Which if I recall is about where the new JL Rubicons are.
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So I went and pickup up that T19 transmission yesterday, included was a transfer case of some kind. Maybe one of you will know what it is. I couldn't get the gears to spin so I bought it without knowing the gear ratio.
Got it back to my shop, removed the T-case and shift cover. This trans has been sitting in a barn for 20-30 years with no shift cane, so the inside was filthy with dust, spiderwebs ect.
I sprayed everything with WD40 and began rocking the input shaft back and forth until things would spin freely and then got to work on the shift collars. Eventually i was able to get it into first gear for the moment of truth...
its a "med" ratio... so first gear is a 5.11
According to novak these were only made a few years, to help bridge the gap between the granny gear 6.32 which was useless on the street, and the 4.02 1st gear, which had a little trouble starting off with a heavy load.
All of the gears are a little closer to each other (not just 1st is different) so the RPM drop between gears is slightly less pronounced.
This will bring my final crawl ratio to 50:1
Pretty close to what a TJ with a factory driveline has.
If I do a T-case upgrade to the 3.1 low gears and an overdrive, it would put my Crawl at 78.55... I'm pretty happy with that.
So, $150 bucks well spent?
Got it back to my shop, removed the T-case and shift cover. This trans has been sitting in a barn for 20-30 years with no shift cane, so the inside was filthy with dust, spiderwebs ect.
I sprayed everything with WD40 and began rocking the input shaft back and forth until things would spin freely and then got to work on the shift collars. Eventually i was able to get it into first gear for the moment of truth...
its a "med" ratio... so first gear is a 5.11
According to novak these were only made a few years, to help bridge the gap between the granny gear 6.32 which was useless on the street, and the 4.02 1st gear, which had a little trouble starting off with a heavy load.
All of the gears are a little closer to each other (not just 1st is different) so the RPM drop between gears is slightly less pronounced.
This will bring my final crawl ratio to 50:1
Pretty close to what a TJ with a factory driveline has.
If I do a T-case upgrade to the 3.1 low gears and an overdrive, it would put my Crawl at 78.55... I'm pretty happy with that.
So, $150 bucks well spent?
I had the 2.43 gears in my D18 t-case & a Warn O/D too but I'd put a Muncie M22 4 speed transmission. It had a SBC 283 too.
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I don't normally try these kind of products, but a mechanic friend I trust said I should give it a try. So I put 6 oz in the engine and 1.5 oz in the transmission. I have to admit, I'm impressed. The engine runs noticeably quieter and the transmission shifts so much smoother. The effect is probably less dramatic for something that wasn't designed 90 years ago. But it certainly made a difference on this old iron.
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Me and a buddy went and ran Back Road to Crown King yesterday... it was awesome, from the tracks in the dirt it had been days since anyone else had been through there. its a fun trail with bypasses for all of the obstacles. For JLURs on 37s, we both pretty much walked through the difficult parts. The weather was perfect (high was 84) and the scenery is amazing the entire time. Highly recommended.
At the end of the trail is Crown King, an old mining camp. Its traditional to get a cold beer at the local saloon.
At the end of the trail is Crown King, an old mining camp. Its traditional to get a cold beer at the local saloon.
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While the sniper EFI was being repaired, I've been running a carburetor. I have it set up that it only takes 30 minutes or so to swap between them. I was getting used to driving with the carb and was thinking about just sticking with it. But since I have a sniper and it isn't cheap, I put the EFI back on.
Now I have changed my mind... the easy starting, easy driving, less gas smell, ect has me loving the sniper again.
Now I have changed my mind... the easy starting, easy driving, less gas smell, ect has me loving the sniper again.
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Just a little upload of the flat fender on broken arrow.
View: https://youtube.com/shorts/alg18psjoiI?feature=share
View: https://youtube.com/shorts/alg18psjoiI?feature=share
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This is a "down the road" kinda project, but I think it will be fun.
A friend gave me a 4.3 Vortec V6 out of a 2002 blazer. It only has 60k miles on it.
Its pretty easy to adapt a ford T-19 to a SBC bellhousing. Actually way easier than trying to adapt a T-19 to and L134. So over the next year I may slowly rebuild both and they will eventually end up in the flat fender.
a 4.3 vortec weighs about 50# less than a L134.
The 4.3 is about the same length as the L134. Obviously a lot wider. And maybe a little less height.
A 4.3 with a mild cam and a little porting can easily put out 240 hp... thats 4 times the power of the L134 and its doesn't mind higher RPMs.
I really want to get back to work on the TJ (you know... the reason you we are all here)
I really enjoy driving the willys, but I will admit its slow enough to cause anxiety. Sometimes its really hard to keep up with traffic. And not just on the highway. Sometimes around town a little hill can slow me down to 15-20 mph full throttle. When everyone else is doing 35-40.
SO anyways, it would be a little monster with a engine swap. About 10 pounds per horsepower.
A friend gave me a 4.3 Vortec V6 out of a 2002 blazer. It only has 60k miles on it.
Its pretty easy to adapt a ford T-19 to a SBC bellhousing. Actually way easier than trying to adapt a T-19 to and L134. So over the next year I may slowly rebuild both and they will eventually end up in the flat fender.
a 4.3 vortec weighs about 50# less than a L134.
The 4.3 is about the same length as the L134. Obviously a lot wider. And maybe a little less height.
A 4.3 with a mild cam and a little porting can easily put out 240 hp... thats 4 times the power of the L134 and its doesn't mind higher RPMs.
I really want to get back to work on the TJ (you know... the reason you we are all here)
I really enjoy driving the willys, but I will admit its slow enough to cause anxiety. Sometimes its really hard to keep up with traffic. And not just on the highway. Sometimes around town a little hill can slow me down to 15-20 mph full throttle. When everyone else is doing 35-40.
SO anyways, it would be a little monster with a engine swap. About 10 pounds per horsepower.
And if you really wanna cut on weight on that engine some aluminum heads would be cool 
!
Performance all around! Since theyre Lighter of course,the heat dissipation you get from them which leads to lesser risk of pre detonation (so more you can run more timing and have a higher compression ratio).
All the pluses except cost and the factor that it isn't cast iron that's more robust/resilient than the aluminum ! but other than that,It would be neat to have a set of aluminum heads on the vortec !
! Performance all around! Since theyre Lighter of course,the heat dissipation you get from them which leads to lesser risk of pre detonation (so more you can run more timing and have a higher compression ratio).
All the pluses except cost and the factor that it isn't cast iron that's more robust/resilient than the aluminum ! but other than that,It would be neat to have a set of aluminum heads on the vortec !
Love a little V-6 in a Flatty.... Look forward to seeing it come about.... But YES look forward to seeing the TJ come around again too...
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I took the GPW out to cliffhanger this morning. I took lots of cool drone footage that turned out... wavy. According to google, this is becuase I have an out of balance prop causing harmonic vibrations. Bummer. All the footage is useless, so here. have a picture of me airing down my tires at the trail head.
Ps. I think I have something broken in the front end... I get a weird noise vibration while the hubs are locked... even in 2wd. Its kinda more of a bang. bang. bang. sound. I unlocked the front drivers hub and the sound went away... so... I dunno. I have to take things apart to see whats up.
Ps. I think I have something broken in the front end... I get a weird noise vibration while the hubs are locked... even in 2wd. Its kinda more of a bang. bang. bang. sound. I unlocked the front drivers hub and the sound went away... so... I dunno. I have to take things apart to see whats up.
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