OP
I'm thinking rod bearing or wrist pin. The loud squeaking it was doing was confusing. I have heard a lot of rod knocks, but never with a squeak.
Turbo 4 Liter
- Thread starter Jezza
- Start date
Your thinking is mine as well. I don't think I've ever heard a main knock like that - but every rod bearing I've ever smoked has sounded exactly like that.
So sorry, Dude...
OP
Well, this is undesirable. It appears that something was incorrect on #3. Back out it comes and off to the machine shop for the second time.
Just making sure I know what I’m looking at…(I’ve never built a bottom end)… So you have a spun connecting rod bearing and those are pieces of it in the cut open oil filter? Bummer. How do you think that happened?
Correct and I'm guessing somebody didn't check clearances properly during assembly.
Jezza, you think the crank is savable? That's crazy how the cap is all discolored. I wonder what the clearances are on the other bearings. Might offer some insight.
OP
I think one of the rod cap bolts was loose. I had to put my weight into the passenger's side bolt where as the driver's side spun out with no resistance. I should have double checked the machine shop. I don't think it is worth fixing. The crank is around $500 new and the labor to fix it would probably be more. I already called Russ and he has them in stock. Plus the discoloration from the heat has me concerned as well. As long as the cam and head are okay I will be happy.
When I see stuff like this I think the fact that the engines I rebuilt entirely on my own at 19 and 21 years old ran great and didn't destroy themselves must have been a straight up miracle. I didn't even know how to torque a set of tapered wheel bearings back then. Or maybe it was more that being a noob had my paranoia and attention to detail turned up to 11, vs the complacence that often arises from repeating the same task for years.
I think you are exactly right. I‘ve taken the same paranoid approach when I’ve done similar engine work. When you have to make money at this stuff, you have to go fast. And when you have to go fast, the likelihood of missing something increases - but that’s not an excuse.
He mentioned it's not worth fixing. New ones are $500.
I have intent to get a new crank from Russ for my old stroker that ate the woodruff key and destroyed the keyway in the crank snout. I was planning to swap it in and do bearings at the same time without pulling the pistons/rods out. Are you going to do the work yourself?
I have a feeling that if he digs in there he'll find that passage plugged up with machine filings from the shop that restricted oil flow, likely the cause of the failure.
Either way, it sucks.
Yes, it was a stroker with parts from Russ Pottenger.
Yep I'd missed that when I posted my comment. $500 isn't bad all things considered. And as long as they are available from the sounds of things I'd replace it also.
OP
I think it used to be the oil hole. My thinking is when the bearing spun it filled up the oil hole with bearing material.
OP
Lol, Hondabond. I don't like leaks and my pan was cut and welded for the stroker. It had a little warp to it when I went to install it, so goop it up.