That's right. You're no weight conscious sheep.
It's never stopped me from completing a trail.
When is there not a point of weight reduction?
- Thread starter Blake Stamper
- Start date
It's never stopped me from completing a trail.
Fwiw I've noticed the incremental change of every weight change in my rig so far. Even tossing in my rear seat and my 6yro. It's not kept me from finishing things so far, but that's just a micro view of what weight can do.
Back in 2011, anyway
Mine on 35s and steel smittybilt armor was 4450 with spare tire, Iām pretty sure that was with me in it. I could lighten it up a little bit more but not much.
For me that's a personal goal, at least on trails I've done before. I want to either see driver growth or rig growth or a combination. I think in terms of 1-10, 10 being unattainable.
What was the neon SRT? That was the 2.4, right? If I had a 4 cylinder jeep, I'd try to find one of those engines to run in it. I'm a BIG believer in turbos...especially factory ones where the fueling is already figured out. I have a 2.0 TSFI Audi and I cannot believe how well that thing pulls. Its crazy...the torque that it makes from such a small displacement is insane. Superchargers are OK...but they suck up something like 80% of the power that the generate just to spin the stupid thing on the accessory drive. Turbo's reclaim "waste" gasses and they are more efficient. Sure, you gotta spool em up, but small turbos can add a few pounds of boost and really increase drivability without a ton of turbo lag. If you're in 4-low, you're probably already spinning enough RPM to keep the turbo spooled.
Also...Shed the weight...especially the sprung weight. Keep some over the rear axle (think spare tire), so the shocks have something to react against but otherwise...make it light and nimble. Aluminum armor, synthetic winch rope, no back seat, etc.
Also...Shed the weight...especially the sprung weight. Keep some over the rear axle (think spare tire), so the shocks have something to react against but otherwise...make it light and nimble. Aluminum armor, synthetic winch rope, no back seat, etc.
Nashvillwill
Member
I was just able to drop 257# from my build by replacing all the steel fenders and corner armor with Aluminum, engine skid went to Aluminum, along with dropping from 37-35ā tires. Iām still heavier than most but Iām also rocking larger axles, Atlas 4 speed, beadlocks, and more tools and spare parts than any one person should ever need. I bet Iād loose 150 -200# in tools, parts, fluids and recovery gear. So based on my recent weight ticket with all my gear in it Iād be 4450# without the gear I believe. And once I get Aluminum suspension links made it should drop another 100# probably
I documented most of it in my build thread. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/āthought-it-was-doneā-build-blog.18708/page-14#post-1130974
When I remove my hardtop my Jeep drives better. IT weighs 115 lbs
It's no secret I've been obsessed with the weight topic for a while now. I've said this before and will say it again, when building TJs, at least based on my experience, getting a well built one under 4200 lbs takes a lot of thought and work. Your best bet is to count every pound and use aluminum to the maximum extent possible.
Drive-train wise, your biggest weight adders will be moving from a Dana 30/35 combination to Dana 44s front and rear. Combine that with adding a beefier transfer case, like the 241, is why you see a 300 lb difference between the sport and Rubicon models. Wheel and tire choices, along with heavy bumpers are other things most don't think about.
I've had two different weight readings, i.e. 3950 and 4080. That's with a full tank of gas, 31" tires, a Rubicon Dana 44 rear, Dana 30, a 241OR and aluminum wherever I could. FWIW, I'd say my weight is somewhere between those two numbers. Keeping weight down can be done. It also becomes a bit of a religion and is, in the end, very expensive. However, it's worth it. Overall, a lighter and well built rig will perform very well on and off-road. Braking, accelerating, and climbing will all improve.
Drive-train wise, your biggest weight adders will be moving from a Dana 30/35 combination to Dana 44s front and rear. Combine that with adding a beefier transfer case, like the 241, is why you see a 300 lb difference between the sport and Rubicon models. Wheel and tire choices, along with heavy bumpers are other things most don't think about.
I've had two different weight readings, i.e. 3950 and 4080. That's with a full tank of gas, 31" tires, a Rubicon Dana 44 rear, Dana 30, a 241OR and aluminum wherever I could. FWIW, I'd say my weight is somewhere between those two numbers. Keeping weight down can be done. It also becomes a bit of a religion and is, in the end, very expensive. However, it's worth it. Overall, a lighter and well built rig will perform very well on and off-road. Braking, accelerating, and climbing will all improve.
I can't say with 100% confidence, but I've picked up both a manual and automatic transmission and didn't notice a major difference in the weight
For what it's worth, you also have to factor in the flywheel and the weight of the clutch assembly itself.
Okay so in theory I could save a decent amount by doing a super 35 opposed to rubicon axles?
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