Blue Betty Rambalam (Inked Build)

[gasiorv]

It occurs to me that there are other steering suppliers that are a lot more cost effective. I'd encourage you to test drive any of them before you install one. I don't mean around the block to see if the front tires go back and forth when you turn the steering wheel. Actually put it through its paces and then go drive a well done PSC system. There is a bit more to a good system than how little you can spend on it.

I had some of the other components installed (Ram and Box) for a few years and now I have all PSC components. I really could not tell a difference in the feel of the system, I think I actually liked the feel of the old ported Mercedes box better. But the ram had to be rebuilt yearly and the box had to be rebuilt every two years. The PSC ram has held up much better, even with some abuse. I have not had the PSC steering box (saginaw style with 03-06 bolt pattern) long enough to determine how well it is going to hold up yet. The PSC pump is the only thing that has really failed on me, but it had some age and a lot of tough times on it, so can't really complain. So, from my experience; when set up correctly the other components actually do work, but you will eventually pay for it in additional maintenance and rebuilds.
If I had to do it over I would have went with all PSC from the get go and I would have went with a PSC Saginaw box with the 97-02 bolt pattern and changed the bolt pattern on my frame, that way if I was out of town and had a failure I could have went to oreilys and grabbed a 97-02 box to throw in to get me going minus the ram. Now if I throw in a 03-06 box I have worry about different hose routings, steering shaft lengths, etc.... or to throw in a 97-02 box the one bolt hole is not going to align.

The TRE flip is an easy one and it gives you a lot of clearance, it is a big win for little effort. Then in the future when you do the BBK just let them know that your TRE is flipped and you will get the new knuckle already configured for the TRE flip. Brakes are important especially if you drive it on the road and that should be high on your list. To me as someone who wheels a good bit in the rocks and does very little road driving, the Hydro Assist was the best upgrade I ever did. And as someone who spots a lot of others out on the trail, I would much rather spot others who have hydro assist or full hydro then those who don't. When spotting someone with no assist the Spotter will point and/or say driver, driver, driver, driver, and they look at you and say I am trying but the wheel won't turn.

 

[inkedrose]

The flip requires adjustment to the swaybar link mount on the left side to stop the raised tie rod end from smacking into it when you turn left. One of several solutions are my raised swaybar link mounts which require welding to the inner C. I would not suggest that as a first welding project to learn on. It is simple but there are some things that need to be paid attention to. If you are already replacing ball joints as part of the brake kit install, that is most of it. If not, then the heat from welding will ruin the plastic race in most upper ball joints so that has to be dealt with.

Was already planning swaybar links. Ball joints were just replaced recently. Should be able to reuse them right? Have another member local that offered to help me with all this.

 

[The4bangertj]

I just did Blaine’s raised bracket. I tried to weld as small of sections and let it cool while also having a cold wet rag on the balljoint itself. Far as I can tell they’re fine but I do plan on replacing them here soon when I do the bbk.

 

[mrblaine]

Was already planning swaybar links.

Does that mean you aren't running swaybar links now?

Ball joints were just replaced recently. Should be able to reuse them right?

Absolutely, just be aware that heat does bad things to plastic. I've taken to just popping the uppers out so I don't even risk it.

Have another member local that offered to help me with all this.

I've seen most of their welding, make sure you pick one of the good ones.
If you get my versions of the raised mounts, I designed them to be simple. Just use the original mount as the guide, clamp a short piece of flat bar to the side sticking up about 1.5", and use that as a clamping guide to hole the new one in place exactly where it needs to be.

 

[inkedrose]

. When spotting someone with no assist the Spotter will point and/or say driver, driver, driver, driver, and they look at you and say I am trying but the wheel won't turn.

that’s good info thanks man. Interesting about the 97-02. You went through that with me, couple spots my arms were giving all they had

 

[mrblaine]

I just did Blaine’s raised bracket. I tried to weld as small of sections and let it cool while also having a cold wet rag on the balljoint itself. Far as I can tell they’re fine but I do plan on replacing them here soon when I do the bbk.

Even a hot wet rag works since the boiling point of water is lower than what melts plastic. Just keep it wet but again, rather than risk thermal shock to the inner C hole, I do prefer pulling the upper out.

 

[inkedrose]

Does that mean you aren't running swaybar links now?

i still have stock mounts with a swaylock

 

[mrblaine]

that’s good info thanks man. Interesting about the 97-02. You went through that with me, couple spots my arms were giving all they had

Before you head down that path, consider the source. Victor tends to treat his equipment like it owes him money.
The other option is just have a spare handy. I know I don't want to be in some backwater locale with limited part options and have to hunt for a part I need that is pretty specialized to save a multi-day wheeling adventure. If I am on a multi-day cross country trip, I have the means and wherewithal to toss that spare in and take with.

We did many of the 03-06 conversions with the frame sleeve mod before the castings that fit were available from PSC, so I am well familiar. We even did quite a few due to them converting the Saginaw by welding a tab on in the correct location for the 03-06 frame. The welded tab didn't thrill me even though I never saw a failure.

If you insist, be aware that the faces of the bolt sleeves that the box mounts to all need to be on the same plane with less than 10 thou variation. If not, then that distorts the housing which can cause exacerbated wear and premature failure. I can walk you through how to do it correctly if you even find yourself in need.

 

[tworley]

I did my own hydro-assist, in the end I should have just went with Blaine's kit. Driving mine and it definitely works, but there is a weight to it (especially in reverse) that is not present when you drive one with the larger pump and better steering gear.

As to welding - that is definitely the small task of a mid arm - everything else that needs to get done right is what takes such a long time. I am far from a good welder, but its amazing what booger welds can hold. The stock bracketry isn't held on by much more. I think when we build things, we overbuild - I did the welding on my mid arm, and those brackets are not coming off easily.

 

[rasband]

I did my own hydro-assist, in the end I should have just went with Blaine's kit. Driving mine and it definitely works, but there is a weight to it (especially in reverse) that is not present when you drive one with the larger pump and better steering gear.

I remember in Shawn's that it needed some RPMs to work as well, is yours this same way?

 

[Abendage]

I remember in Shawn's that it needed some RPMs to work as well, is yours this same way?

I have an older PSC TC pump in mine and that’s how mine is. If the idle drops much below 700 it can be sluggish for a second. Doesn’t happen often, but if/when my pump goes out I’ll go to the CBR pump.

 

[mrblaine]

I have an older PSC TC pump in mine and that’s how mine is. If the idle drops much below 700 it can be sluggish for a second. Doesn’t happen often, but if/when my pump goes out I’ll go to the CBR pump.

In terms of product generation, that TC pump is ancient. The newish steel body high volume pumps for the TJ are pretty darn good. Be aware that it is prudent to pay attention to matching the torsion bar size to the pump. You may discover the new pump causes the steering to be too light on the highway for comfort. Avoid the trap of an overdrive pulley. They tend to excessively wear pumps under continued use.

 

[tworley]

I remember in Shawn's that it needed some RPMs to work as well, is yours this same way?

It works well enough when I am daily driving and crawling, just an ever-so-slightly heavier feel than stock.

When I reverse, that is when I have to give it some RPMs. I dont know why that is. I did drill out the pump fitting to 9/64, and I used as much -8 hose as possible with the last little bit going thru a reducer and to the stock -6 hose (maybe 2") before it goes into the reservoir.

 

[Abendage]

In terms of product generation, that TC pump is ancient. The newish steel body high volume pumps for the TJ are pretty darn good. Be aware that it is prudent to pay attention to matching the torsion bar size to the pump. You may discover the new pump causes the steering to be too light on the highway for comfort. Avoid the trap of an overdrive pulley. They tend to excessively wear pumps under continued use.

Thanks for the tips. When I ordered the gear I talked myself out of getting the .210 torsion rod because of the old pump. I kept the shipping box with the intention of sending the gear out for a different rod if I upgraded pumps down the road. I’m happy with it for now, and was able to use up parts I already had.

 

[inkedrose]

Before I can start ordering new parts I’m breaking old stuff. Cracked the weld on my axle truss a year or so ago and had someone re-weld it. Just cracked again in a few spots. What are my options here? I have a Rock Krawler long arm kit. Can I just have it welded again? Is there any benefit replacing the truss and keeping current axle or am I looking at a full swap? The current axles are already geared, chromo shafts, lockers work, new seals and bearings. Should I just be looking for a new housing?

 

[jjvw]

Before I can start ordering new parts I’m breaking old stuff. Cracked the weld on my axle truss a year or so ago and had someone re-weld it. Just cracked again in a few spots. What are my options here? I have a Rock Krawler long arm kit. Can I just have it welded again? Is there any benefit replacing the truss and keeping current axle or am I looking at a full swap? The current axles are already geared, chromo shafts, lockers work, new seals and bearings. Should I just be looking for a new housing?

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How is the very top of the truss attached to the axle housing?

 

[Wildman]

I'd want to figure out "WHY" it's cracking first before I fixed it again... And then take to a good certified welder to have it repaired.

 

[jjvw]

I'd want to figure out "WHY" it's cracking first before I fixed it again... And then take to a good certified welder to have it repaired.

A certified welder can't fix a truss that is designed to lever itself off of the axle tubes.

 

[inkedrose]

@jjvw doesn’t look like it really is?

I'd want to figure out "WHY" it's cracking first before I fixed it again... And then take to a good certified welder to have it repaired.

I’m guessing the why leads back to Josh’s question?

 

[Wildman]

A certified welder can't fix a truss that is designed to lever itself off of the axle tubes.

Which is why I said I'd want to know why it was cracking there fist... And obviously how to fix it so it won't happen again.