In my recent tire adventure, I increased the backspacing a 1/4". It was enough that I think I can tell a small improvement in the steering and handling.
Currie Short Arm vs. Savvy Mid-Arm
- Thread starter jordans05tj
- Start date
In my recent tire adventure, I increased the backspacing a 1/4". It was enough that I think I can tell a small improvement in the steering and handling.
Was at 3.5" BS on a 11.5" tire. Now I'm at 3.75" on a 12.5".
As close as is practical on stock axles.
Factory Moabs are 5", so even Jeep was creating a small compromise. One of a few on the Rubicon.
From now on, this will be my quoted reason for preferring 10.5" wide tires and 5.25" bs 15x8's on my TJ, instead of just liking the way it looks.
10.5 is better for many reasons, I’ve found that using a 12.5 requires too many compromises.
well, to be more specific yes, all those reasons as well. But until today I didn't really know anything about scrub radius. It really makes me wonder why they're not more popular, which might drive some more tire makers to produce them.
I still haven't really figured out for sure whether a 10.5" is any more likely to de-bead itself at the same pressure on the same wheel as a 12.5, but that's the only possible downside I can come up with. Logic tells me that the difference in outward bead pressure applied by the tire carcass is inconsequential compared to the outward pressure applied to the sidewall by the air inside but I have no real world comparison to validate that.
X3 to this...I’ve been looking/writing down parts for what I want. I looked at the mid arm and after reading a butt load of threads, this setup is most likely where I’ll end up.
I even eyed the Dana 60 rear but see no need for my use. My last dilemma is wether to go back to a stock width axle.
maybe 5+ years from now I’ll finally learn how to put drive the short arm, but I highly doubt it. I want to have fun, not spend all my time underneath it.
Good luck! Not as easy as it looks to plan something.
I should have read the date on the comment I quoted...didn’t realize this thread took a left turn.
Why? For an extra $1,000 you get what appears to be a significantly better suspension system.
The definition of “better” varies from Jeep to Jeep. After reading through a bunch of SA/LA threads turned into arguments, a short arm is more than enough to satisfy the places I go with ease.
My decision hasn’t been set in stone, I’m still tossing the mid-arm, but I believe the SA will let me have plenty of fun.
I would rather see you with a well set up Savvy/Currie short arm with tuned outboarded shocks than a mid arm with shocks in the stock location. You will go a very long way over some difficult stuff before you find the need to change. But, when you do, the only thing you are losing are the short arms, rear track bar, and some frame mounts to move to the mid arm. Nothing else changes.
Agreed, once I stopped looking at other rigs with parts envy and started looking at my personal needs; I do not see myself out-driving a SA anytime soon. I want to get as much out of a SA/35" Jeep within reason and just have fun.
I took this advise to heart with my build. Removed a crappy RE longarm kit and re-welded LCA mounts back in the stock locations to give myself the ability to run the savvy SA kit. Next major step as funds and shop time allow is tuned outboarded shocks. Once that is complete and my wheeling deems it necessary is the mid arm.
the deeper i dug the more obvious it became, K.I.S.S............ follow the basic recommendations for setting up a suspension sys.
you don't even have to dive that deep.
what's the recommended length of the LCA based on YOUR travel? (for most the shock is the limiter, as mrblaine eluded to)
what's the recommended interception angle range of the LCA into the frame?
what's the recommended spread from LCA to the UCA axle mount based on tire size? this can all be laid out 1 question at a time.
then shit gets real fun. cause now you start into variables when placing anything else in the sys. then you need to understand laying out the geometry. but that simple ^ work through will point you to what would be a proper zone to work from.
for me based on my travel and recommended LCA length and the upward intersection angle ...... SOB if i didn't end up at a MA.
you don't even have to dive that deep.
what's the recommended length of the LCA based on YOUR travel? (for most the shock is the limiter, as mrblaine eluded to)
what's the recommended interception angle range of the LCA into the frame?
what's the recommended spread from LCA to the UCA axle mount based on tire size? this can all be laid out 1 question at a time.
then shit gets real fun. cause now you start into variables when placing anything else in the sys. then you need to understand laying out the geometry. but that simple ^ work through will point you to what would be a proper zone to work from.
for me based on my travel and recommended LCA length and the upward intersection angle ...... SOB if i didn't end up at a MA.
RiverDawg24
TJ Enthusiast
well. Best laid plans..... I changed course and ordered the Savvy Mid-Arm.
It’ll have to sit on my shelf for a bit until I can afford some other parts. But I’m happy with my decision.
Yeswell. Best laid plans..... I changed course and ordered the Savvy Mid-Arm.
It’ll have to sit on my shelf for a bit until I can afford some other parts. But I’m happy with my decision.
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