Basket's Build

[lBasket]

You don't have A/C? Or your A/C just doesn't work?

If you don't have A/C I might be able to help you out. The Blue Jeep the Hemi came in doesn't have A/C. I need to find out if I've got the whole thing sold or not. Somone my neighbor knows was looking for a project rig and they were interested in the Jeep. If it turns out the Jeep isn't sold I can strip off whatever parts you need.

It just never had AC at all. The VW I bought new was the only vehicle I've ever really had that had functioning AC lol.

What did you do? Flush the torque boxes?

I let it air out, it did get rained in a few times, so a little bit I think.

Normally I have a car cover for it so it doesn't get wet inside but I wasn't about to put that on when it was stinky, not ideal to get rained in I know

Your hvac is always drawing some air. Switching it to cool will at least block off the heater core so it isn't drafting hot air into the cab?

Some of those levers used to be available. You might get lucky. I drilled and ran a screw into the broken piece so I could pull it out with pliers.

Hmmmm I don't really notice getting hot when it's off but maybe it could be cooler inside. Maybe I will mess with it, what is the part called do you know?

 

[Rickyd]

It just never had AC at all. The VW I bought new was the only vehicle I've ever really had that had functioning AC lol.


I let it air out, it did get rained in a few times, so a little bit I think.

Normally I have a car cover for it so it doesn't get wet inside but I wasn't about to put that on when it was stinky, not ideal to get rained in I know


Hmmmm I don't really notice getting hot when it's off but maybe it could be cooler inside. Maybe I will mess with it, what is the part called do you know?

If you google "tj hvac lever" you'll get a bunch of hits. I think it is the blend door? But I'm not sure. I think you'll need the 97-98 version as later ones use a servo motor for that function

 

[lBasket]

Not jeep related but... Race cor eye candy.

Goddamn am I tired of working on this thing though tbh

 

[Wildman]

Not jeep related but... Race cor eye candy.

Goddamn am I tired of working on this thing though tbh

View attachment 556981
View attachment 556982

That is a nice looking Tri-Y header. I can't say on your Toyota but the one I had on my Suzuki Samurai made a HELL of a difference. Are you going to leave it raw or paint it? Or get it ceramic coated?

Just think about all the FUN you're going to have in that MR2 once it is done.

 

[lBasket]

That is a nice looking Tri-Y header. I can't say on your Toyota but the one I had on my Suzuki Samurai made a HELL of a difference. Are you going to leave it raw or paint it? Or get it ceramic coated?

I don't know if it actually adds power vs the OEM header, it is more of a packaging necessity as I'm sure you understand....

I'm going to leave it raw for now. I didn't really want to have to pay for this in the first place and it was expensive lol. It looks cool like that anyways and you'll hardly be able to see it. Hopefully I don't cook

Just think about all the FUN you're going to have in that MR2 once it is done.

Yeah one day!! I am just disappointed I'm not going to have it done before winter (again). But it's whatever.

Guy that makes this header also has a custom thermostat housing/molded rubber hoses that I bought and couldn't use with the old header. So between that and the extra room for my shifter cables I'm hoping it makes things smoother.

Whole drivetrain needs to come out to change the header though. So you can appreciate not needing to do that at least

 

[Wildman]

I don't know if it actually adds power vs the OEM header, it is more of a packaging necessity as I'm sure you understand....

I'm going to leave it raw for now. I didn't really want to have to pay for this in the first place and it was expensive lol. It looks cool like that anyways and you'll hardly be able to see it. Hopefully I don't cook

I'd at least paint it with some high temp paint or ceramic paint. I'd do it more it more to keep it from rusting than for the heat thing. I didn't want to have to buy headers either and the ones I needed were $$$$$ so I get it.

Yeah one day!! I am just disappointed I'm not going to have it done before winter (again). But it's whatever.

Been there & might be there again.

Guy that makes this header also has a custom thermostat housing/molded rubber hoses that I bought and couldn't use with the old header. So between that and the extra room for my shifter cables I'm hoping it makes things smoother.

The guy won't take the unused parts back?

Whole drivetrain needs to come out to change the header though. So you can appreciate not needing to do that at least

Damn, I know how that feels too but I really wish I didn't. Since it's been years since I've even touched one how long approx is it to yank the engine/drivetrain? And it has to come out from the bottom? So I'm guessing God I don't miss working on those types of rigs.

 

[lBasket]

I'd at least paint it with some high temp paint or ceramic paint. I'd do it more it more to keep it from rusting than for the heat thing. I didn't want to have to buy headers either and the ones I needed were $$$$$ so I get it.

They say it's 300 series stainless so it won't rust. It'll do the cool ricer purple stuff at the welds too if I don't paint it!!

And yep I figured you would get it lol.

Been there & might be there again.

You're closer than me and doing alot more

The guy won't take the unused parts back?

He might have, I held onto them because nobody had tried to header I used so I might have needed them. And would you just look at that...

Damn, I know how that feels too but I really wish I didn't. Since it's been years since I've even touched one how long approx is it to yank the engine/drivetrain? And it has to come out from the bottom? So I'm guessing God I don't miss working on those types of rigs.

Yeah you have to drop it from the bottom. I just managed to finagle it with the drivetrain partially dropped so I don't need to navigate it back around the suspension at least. Pain in the ass though lol.

Here's some comparison pics

My main problem was needing space underneath the car right exhaust port (in these pics) so I'm optimistic this will help

 

[Wildman]

They say it's 300 series stainless so it won't rust. It'll do the cool ricer purple stuff at the welds too if I don't paint it!!

OK cool. If you don't need the heat protection then I get it.

And yep I figured you would get it lol.

We both get it.

You're closer than me and doing alot more

I've still got a lot to finish off. It never seems to end. But we'll both get it.

He might have, I held onto them because nobody had tried to header I used so I might have needed them. And would you just look at that...

I've got so many parts I held onto for too long and now can't return.

Yeah you have to drop it from the bottom. I just managed to finagle it with the drivetrain partially dropped so I don't need to navigate it back around the suspension at least. Pain in the ass though lol.

Doesn't sound like a lot of fun. Even when having all the right tools and a lift.

Here's some comparison pics

View attachment 557067
View attachment 557068

My main problem was needing space underneath the car right exhaust port (in these pics) so I'm optimistic this will help

I like the Tri-Y and I'll bet there is a difference between them power wise too,

 

[lBasket]

OK cool. If you don't need the heat protection then I get it.

I may regret it but we'll see lol. I am told this new smaller header can be removed without dropping the motor too so it's not as big of a deal if I need it later. We'll see. My cheap ass would probably try a sheet metal heat shield or a wrap first lol

We both get it.



I've still got a lot to finish off. It never seems to end. But we'll both get it.

Yep. Just gotta keep going... I just try to get out for at least an hour and do something

I've got so many parts I held onto for too long and now can't return.

Haha yeah that sucks. Hopefully you can find someone to sell them to at least? People never seem to talk much about all the shit they buy and DON'T use in a swap, it's a fun surprise haha

Doesn't sound like a lot of fun. Even when having all the right tools and a lift.

Yeah it kinda is ass. Especially since there is no subframe to cradle it you just gotta dump it on a dolly and then pick the car up around it

I like the Tri-Y and I'll bet there is a difference between them power wise too,

Hopefully so, I don't think anyone's done a comparison but it definitely looks better.

I don't know if the v-band clamp is easier I'm than the bolt on flange the OEM had? I'll have to figure an exhaust out eventually so I'll find out I guess

 

[Wildman]

When I did cars where I dropped out the bottom we had a frame that sat on the fenders and would hold the engine as you pulled out the drivetrain. I don't know if the MR2 is like that our not.

I'm a big fan of V-band clamps on the exhaust. They are a lot easier to work with than a flange and you can get things lined up prior to getting everything tightened down. Just don't forget to tighten down the V-band like I did the other day. I had to wait for it all to cool back off before I could get things lined back up and then tightened down.

 

[lBasket]

When I did cars where I dropped out the bottom we had a frame that sat on the fenders and would hold the engine as you pulled out the drivetrain. I don't know if the MR2 is like that our not.

Were these RWD? I dont know if I've ever seen anything like that... I suppose if you held the engine at an angle like I did today you could maybe pull the transaxle off, not sure there's enough horizontal space to do so without an angle though.

What I wish I had was a longer hoist arm. You have to reach over the trunk to get to the engine bay lol and it's like an inch too short.

I'm a big fan of V-band clamps on the exhaust. They are a lot easier to work with than a flange and you can get things lined up prior to getting everything tightened down. Just don't forget to tighten down the V-band like I did the other day. I had to wait for it all to cool back off before I could get things lined back up and then tightened down.

Okay cool good to know. That does sound easier. I can't wait to lay down some atrocious booger welds making an exhaust

 

[Wildman]

Were these RWD? I dont know if I've ever seen anything like that... I suppose if you held the engine at an angle like I did today you could maybe pull the transaxle off, not sure there's enough horizontal space to do so without an angle though.

FWD cars or transaxle rigs like the MR2. It was a frame that sat on the finders and had hooks & chains that would hold the engine as you pulled the drivetrain.
This is from Harbor Freight. The one I used had a second arm that could go to the front or rear.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

What I wish I had was a longer hoist arm. You have to reach over the trunk to get to the engine bay lol and it's like an inch too short.

I have the larger hoist form HF and when doing the Hemi swap it was about 1-2" too short too at times. But my front crossmember is moved forward too.

Okay cool good to know. That does sound easier. I can't wait to lay down some atrocious booger welds making an exhaust

Mine are getting a little better but the O2 bungs look like shit.

 

[lBasket]

FWD cars or transaxle rigs like the MR2. It was a frame that sat on the finders and had hooks & chains that would hold the engine as you pulled the drivetrain.
This is from Harbor Freight. The one I used had a second arm that could go to the front or rear.

View attachment 557077

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

Ohh this is interesting. Yeah that looks really useful. I wonder if the fenders could support the weight that looks really nice.

I starting using ratchet straps from the hoist so I have a little bit of adjustability to get into the mounts. Of course I think the entire drivetrain is only like 330lbs or something.

I have the larger hoist form HF and when doing the Hemi swap it was about 1-2" too short too at times. But my front crossmember is moved forward too.

Ugh lol it's the worst. Do you have to wedge it forward a little bit with a 2x4 to get it into the mounts too??

Mine are getting a little better but the O2 bungs look like shit.

Haha! Yeah I think yours are decent but I am not very good lol. It is just an exhaust so whatever works. I think dude tunes out the downstream O2s so at least I don't have to deal with that...

 

[Wildman]

This is more like what I had.

https://www.jbtools.com/astro-pneum...8Gft8uApr6jwGXe33rKOEIN2SfyaCGvhoCCjYQAvD_BwE

Ohh this is interesting. Yeah that looks really useful. I wonder if the fenders could support the weight that looks really nice.

I'd guess your fenders would. These are spreading the weight too so don't forget that.

I starting using ratchet straps from the hoist so I have a little bit of adjustability to get into the mounts. Of course I think the entire drivetrain is only like 330lbs or something.

I have one of the nice tilt engine slings so I could move it back and forth some.

Ugh lol it's the worst. Do you have to wedge it forward a little bit with a 2x4 to get it into the mounts too??

I was just using a pry bar to get the motor mounts lined up. It wasn't a ton of fun doing it alone.

Haha! Yeah I think yours are decent but I am not very good lol. It is just an exhaust so whatever works. I think dude tunes out the downstream O2s so at least I don't have to deal with that...

Thanks. I think they look like crap.

Your downstream is really only there to tell if the cat is working. And I'm not sure just how much it does since I clogged the cat with my old engine and it never threw any codes.

 

[lBasket]

This is more like what I had.

View attachment 557079

https://www.jbtools.com/astro-pneum...8Gft8uApr6jwGXe33rKOEIN2SfyaCGvhoCCjYQAvD_BwE

Holy cow... For 60$ I might have to bookmark this. Having that other angle to tilt the motor would be so nice.

I'd guess your fenders would. These are spreading the weight too so don't forget that.



I have one of the nice tilt engine slings so I could move it back and forth some.

I've been thinking about getting one of those... I also kinda keep telling myself that it's the last time I pull the drivetrain

I was just using a pry bar to get the motor mounts lined up. It wasn't a ton of fun doing it alone.

Yep it sucks. I jam a long 2x4 all the way to the ground and lean against that lol

Thanks. I think they look like crap.

Your downstream is really only there to tell if the cat is working. And I'm not sure just how much it does since I clogged the cat with my old engine and it never threw any codes.

Haha well then I might have something to show you eventually!! Yep that's why he gets rid of them... That convo in your thread about anti seize and SS probably just saved my ass speaking of. I probably wouldn't have thought about it

 

[Wildman]

Holy cow... For 60$ I might have to bookmark this. Having that other angle to tilt the motor would be so nice.

I was a little shocked at the price too.

I've been thinking about getting one of those... I also kinda keep telling myself that it's the last time I pull the drivetrain

I'd done the piece of chain or a strap for a lot of years... I like my adjustable sling.

Yep it sucks. I jam a long 2x4 all the way to the ground and lean against that lol

I'm too OLD & Fat to be doing stuff like that.

Haha well then I might have something to show you eventually!! Yep that's why he gets rid of them... That convo in your thread about anti seize and SS probably just saved my ass speaking of. I probably wouldn't have thought about it

Glad it saved you from a screwed up O2. I feel like a idiot for forgetting. I'm just glad it didn't ruin the O2 bung too. While I have spares I could have welded in I did want to have to.

 

[Apparition]

https://www.offroad-outfitter.com/collections/t-shirts/products/manifold-burritos-t-shirt

 

[Woodrow]

View attachment 561728

https://www.offroad-outfitter.com/collections/t-shirts/products/manifold-burritos-t-shirt

Basket’s burritos are the best trail food I’ve had

 

[lBasket]

I've started to realize something does not feel right in my front end after replacing the axle shafts in my front axle. There is a new wobble/vibration in the steering wheel that wasn't there before, and it seems to "stick" when hitting corners at speed or something.

I'll have to remove the front diff when I get a minute from working on the MR2 and see if anything seems wrong.

 

[lBasket]

In other positive news... I did manage to pick this topper up for my truck last night:

150$ and 10mi from my house and looks like it's made for this model, I think I got lucky. Needs a back glass.

Let's see if I can come up with something in there that is better than tent camping but isn't a pain in the ass like a bed camper.