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[lBasket]

If the top of your sleeping bed is sitting just above the top of the wheel wells you wont be too cramped when trying to sit up, any higher than that with a cab height topper and you'll be hitting your head.

I am also thinking of the dog honestly, if he can't stand up in it it'll be hard for him to get in and out. He can't "crawl in" like a person can.

Also easier to just slap plywood onto the bottom of the bed lol.

Also thinking... the air mattress idea wouldn't work if I'm already cutting it close with vertical space. I am relatively tall.

Do you not get cold camping with an air mattress? In my head I was expecting to layer insulation panels on what I ended up laying on to not lose too much heat. I did read that cold weather hammock-tenting thread...

 

[Apparition]

I have a 3” insulated air mattress that used from the bottom of the Grand Canyon to the base of Denali. I’ve never been cold with it. I also have a nice down sleeping bag.

 

[lBasket]

I have a 3” insulated air mattress that used from the bottom of the Grand Canyon to the base of Denali. I’ve never been cold with it. I also have a nice down sleeping bag.

Good to know. I'll look into these and see if I can find one I like. I'm half considering just using some normal carpet + padding as a base and seeing how that feels with a sleeping pad on top of it lol. I'm such a cheap ass.

 

[reddvltj]

Good to know. I'll look into these and see if I can find one I like. I'm half considering just using some normal carpet + padding as a base and seeing how that feels with a sleeping pad on top of it lol. I'm such a cheap ass.

When I went out on forest fires I used my cot and a good quality roll up pad. They have an air valve that allows them to inflate when you unclip the strap and let it roll open. I usually end up blowing it up slightly over it's normal size and it never transfers the cold through it even on a cot. They're also enough padding to use on hard surfaces.

As for the standard air mattress getting cold, you'll definitely want a good insulation barrier between you and the mattress but the other issue is.... What does air doo when it cools? You guess it, the attress looses pressure and you end up sleeping on the ground by morning if there is a large enough temp swing. That's why I use a roll up pad...

 

[Claytone]

So, I gotta ask, how much stuff do you bring camping? It's just you and the pup, right?
I can fit enough gear for a family of 4 in the cargo area of my Tahoe for any camp trip we've done.
Tent, 4 sleeping bags, roll up pads, dry food, 12v cooler, clothes, cooking stuff, propane 2 burner stove, usually a couple firearms/targets, sometimes a dog.
It seems like you could easily get this done with your pickup using some totes for your gear.

 

[lBasket]

So, I gotta ask, how much stuff do you bring camping? It's just you and the pup, right?
I can fit enough gear for a family of 4 in the cargo area of my Tahoe for any camp trip we've done.
Tent, 4 sleeping bags, roll up pads, dry food, 12v cooler, clothes, cooking stuff, propane 2 burner stove, usually a couple firearms/targets, sometimes a dog.
It seems like you could easily get this done with your pickup using some totes for your gear.

Yep it's just me and the dog. Honestly I haven't camped with anything but my jeep in the last 5years or so (and the camper but that's a different PITA lol), so when taking that it felt like I was trying to take too much stuff. I probably don't bring much for a larger vehicle.

I will probably have to get used to having enough space to bring enough stuff to enjoy myself. I never really picked up much "creature comfort" stuff cos it never felt like I had any room. Hell, I was sleeping on the blankets that I used to put on the floor of the Jeep for the dog lol. Gross.

 

[Wildman]

I am also thinking of the dog honestly, if he can't stand up in it it'll be hard for him to get in and out. He can't "crawl in" like a person can.

Also easier to just slap plywood onto the bottom of the bed lol.

Also thinking... the air mattress idea wouldn't work if I'm already cutting it close with vertical space. I am relatively tall.

Do you not get cold camping with an air mattress? In my head I was expecting to layer insulation panels on what I ended up laying on to not lose too much heat. I did read that cold weather hammock-tenting thread...

I'd still want like a cot or a deck area that is half the width of the bed. You're young so I know it's not as much of a deal but believe me you'll appreciate it when getting a few years older. Even if you just got a regular cot and set it up every night.
Like has been said there are self inflating sleeping pads that work really good as far as giving some comfort but don't get cold like a larger air mattress. I have a cot that is wider than standard width & inflatable sleeping pads and it's pretty comfortable.

 

[lBasket]

 

[Wildman]

You need a mount in the dash or hood so you can video it going down the road....

Did you take it for a test drive or was this just a driveway run?

 

[lBasket]

You need a mount in the dash or hood so you can video it going down the road....

I really do. I was trying to figure out how to drive it with one hand for a bit.

Did you take it for a test drive or was this just a driveway run?

I went down my street, turned right into a cul-de-sac, and went back lol so maybe 200'. It drove ok. I thought it was going to be more exciting but now I know I need to redo some stuff clutch still isn't bled right, shifter cables aren't right, and sounds like a caliper is dragging. Oh well... at least I can back it into the carport and get out of the sun now.

 

[lBasket]

Remember when I was bitching about tent camping? Well, I tried to come up with a better solution with the truck bed topper.

First I made a back window (missing when I bought the topper):

Never worked with Lexan before, it kinda turned out looking like shit, but it works and is waterproof. Kinda a hard material to deal with, the whole score-and-cut method isn't horrible but it isn't as easy as being able to cut it normally. You can see on the right side of the bottom edge where I decided to try to use a flap disk to shave off 1/8". Was not a good idea. I should probably go back and try to round the top corners, they look awful.

The topper was 125$ and I think the lexan + lock cylinder + windowweld was around 250$, funny how that works.

The rest of this is kinda an MVP (minimum viable product). I made the bare minimum and want to take it out for a trip or two before doing any carpeting or anything in case I want to make changes.

That being said, I made a "power center" for camping:

Stole the battery from my truckbed camper (anyone wanna buy that? lol), added a PDC to run lights in the shell (and anything else later) and a 200w inverter I had laying around.

I bought a 30w solar panel w/ trickle charger to charge it:

If this solar isn't adequate I'll buy one of those charge controllers so I can connect it to the truck system, probably via the truckbed trailer plug. 30w isn't a lot, but it is unlikely I'll burn through a 100h battery in one night too, so we'll see.

I built a raised platform to get me off the bed of the truck and insulated it:

Didn't get a pic of the top but it's just some OSB screwed to 2x4's with insulated nailed/taped down. It was just some cheap stuff I could get locally with a low R value of like 3 but since I'll be putting moving pads, a rug, and my regular sleeping pads down, it should be fine.

I have a Mr. Buddy I am going to use for heat, supposed to heat 225sqft so it should be fine with this tiny box. Just need to get a CO alarm, likely put it on the power box. Then I can take it for a test run, I always get a camping urge january-february for some reason.

 

[lBasket]

Since this is why my thread has been dead I'll update here whether Jeep people care or not lol.

The MR2 is finally in a driveable, and more importantly titleable, state. It isn't "done done" but it is good enough.

I "made" an exhaust using a muffler from a 2013 Scion TC and some parts from summit:

Holy boogerwelds, batman!!

The welds aren't good but I was happy to be able to make something that fit at all and doesn't leak (I don't think), and line things up pretty well:

I NEED an exhaust to get titled. If I don't like it I can try again later or (more likely) pay someone to do it when I can just drive the car to a shop.

But honestly it sounds pretty decent for having no cat, no resonator.

This is a cold start giving it some gas in the carport:


It's actually fairly quiet idling once warmed up and not in a tiny carport:


Not really pictured but I spent a hell of a time rewiring a lot of the lights, putting the interior back together, changing resistors on the tach, messing with the shifter cables, etc etc in the last few months lol.

Check out these sweet green LEDs

Now I can work on the Jeep!!

 

[lBasket]

Took apart my front diff today. It has not felt right ever since breaking the driver side axle shaft and putting in the new (used) one a few months ago. The best way I could describe it is it felt like it was binding up, almost like the lunchbox locker was sticking? It also seemed like I could feel something through the steering wheel, like a "tick" feeling. Both of these happen on sweeping turns at 45mph range speeds, and when the wheel was at full lock maneuvering in my driveway.

I've filled the gas tank twice since then, so I've gone maybe 400ish miles. Only driving in town to feel it out and keep it from sitting, but it just doesn't feel right.

I emptied the diff and the fluid looks pretty shiny, I did not expect to see this many flakes in the new fluid.

It seemed pretty sparkly draining.

So, I took out the front diff and I guess I expected to find some "smoking gun" of a bearing race being ground up or something, but I really didn't. Trying to avoid a massive photo dump, but...

The races look nice:

I replaced my dana 30 a few years ago with a HP 30 from an XJ for bearing issues, but it was super obvious. Squealed, the races were heavily scored, and the rollers in the bearing were chipped. I'm not exactly sure where to go or look from here, if anyone might have ideas?

I took the entire diff, lunchbox locker and all, apart, and didn't see anything, though I have a bunch of pics, but none of them seem very relevant. I do remember the locker (re-used from original dana 30) was right at the edge of the acceptable tolerance specs between cam gears in the new diff, like 0.001" away from not being usable. So maybe I should try putting it back together and seeing if that has drifted out of spec?

Also, can you check the pinion bearing without taking it apart?

 

[Wildman]

Since this is why my thread has been dead I'll update here whether Jeep people care or not lol.

The MR2 is finally in a driveable, and more importantly titleable, state. It isn't "done done" but it is good enough.

I "made" an exhaust using a muffler from a 2013 Scion TC and some parts from summit:
View attachment 577618
Holy boogerwelds, batman!!

The welds aren't good but I was happy to be able to make something that fit at all and doesn't leak (I don't think), and line things up pretty well:
View attachment 577619

I NEED an exhaust to get titled. If I don't like it I can try again later or (more likely) pay someone to do it when I can just drive the car to a shop.

But honestly it sounds pretty decent for having no cat, no resonator.

This is a cold start giving it some gas in the carport:


It's actually fairly quiet idling once warmed up and not in a tiny carport:


Not really pictured but I spent a hell of a time rewiring a lot of the lights, putting the interior back together, changing resistors on the tach, messing with the shifter cables, etc etc in the last few months lol.

Check out these sweet green LEDs
View attachment 577625



Now I can work on the Jeep!!

Congrats on getting the MR2 running... looks great. Sounds good too.

Can't offer much help on the front diff.

 

[Wildman]

If you have a inch lb torque wrench (dial or beam) you can check the bearing preload.

 

[lBasket]

Congrats on getting the MR2 running... looks great. Sounds good too.

Can't offer much help on the front diff.

Thank you!!

 

[Woodrow]

Took apart my front diff today. It has not felt right ever since breaking the driver side axle shaft and putting in the new (used) one a few months ago. The best way I could describe it is it felt like it was binding up, almost like the lunchbox locker was sticking? It also seemed like I could feel something through the steering wheel, like a "tick" feeling. Both of these happen on sweeping turns at 45mph range speeds, and when the wheel was at full lock maneuvering in my driveway.

I've filled the gas tank twice since then, so I've gone maybe 400ish miles. Only driving in town to feel it out and keep it from sitting, but it just doesn't feel right.

I emptied the diff and the fluid looks pretty shiny, I did not expect to see this many flakes in the new fluid.

View attachment 577664

It seemed pretty sparkly draining.

So, I took out the front diff and I guess I expected to find some "smoking gun" of a bearing race being ground up or something, but I really didn't. Trying to avoid a massive photo dump, but...

The races look nice:
View attachment 577665
View attachment 577667

I replaced my dana 30 a few years ago with a HP 30 from an XJ for bearing issues, but it was super obvious. Squealed, the races were heavily scored, and the rollers in the bearing were chipped. I'm not exactly sure where to go or look from here, if anyone might have ideas?

I took the entire diff, lunchbox locker and all, apart, and didn't see anything, though I have a bunch of pics, but none of them seem very relevant. I do remember the locker (re-used from original dana 30) was right at the edge of the acceptable tolerance specs between cam gears in the new diff, like 0.001" away from not being usable. So maybe I should try putting it back together and seeing if that has drifted out of spec?

Also, can you check the pinion bearing without taking it apart?

What @Wildman said about pre-load. Shouldn’t be as tight as new, though. There also shouldn’t be any side to side or end play when you grab the yoke (visible or audible). As far as the clicking goes, what you said about the lunch box tolerance makes me wonder. Definitely check that.

 

[lBasket]

I put the diff back together and checked all the clearances for the lunchbox, everything was well in spec. The pinion feels very solid. No marks on the ring gear that stick out, anyways.

I don't know, maybe the metal in the fluid is leftover from last time. I wasn't super motivated and it wasn't my best work cleaning it out. It could be a red herring about the axle shaft. I will look around for loose bolts or anything else that stands out, and do an alignment. I will probably send it on the diff. I need to be saving for a regear anyways.

 

[lBasket]

Since I couldn't find anything wrong with the diff, I looked around to find anything else that might be wrong. Weird that it is good news, but I found 2 things.

First is an easy fix, driver front lower control arm mount was bent and looks like it was binding a little:

Bent that puppy back.

And then it looks like my passenger upper front control arm JJ decided to spit out a snap ring.

I ordered these from Core 4x4 back in June after my disaster of a trip to Telluride, so I wonder if they would warranty them. Their website says they don't cover "Wearable items, including but not limited to tie rod ends, bushings, joints, uniballs/spherical bearings, and related hardware." so I guess I am probably going to learn how to rebuild a johnny joint.

This is good news though, my diff checked out okay from what I could tell and now there are other things wrong. These would be easily fixable for Moab.

 

[FarFire70]

Since I couldn't find anything wrong with the diff, I looked around to find anything else that might be wrong. Weird that it is good news, but I found 2 things.

First is an easy fix, driver front lower control arm mount was bent and looks like it was binding a little:
View attachment 578607

Bent that puppy back.

And then it looks like my passenger upper front control arm JJ decided to spit out a snap ring.
View attachment 578608

I ordered these from Core 4x4 back in June after my disaster of a trip to Telluride, so I wonder if they would warranty them. Their website says they don't cover "Wearable items, including but not limited to tie rod ends, bushings, joints, uniballs/spherical bearings, and related hardware." so I guess I am probably going to learn how to rebuild a johnny joint.

This is good news though, my diff checked out okay from what I could tell and now there are other things wrong. These would be easily fixable for Moab.

Glad you caught it!

I had the same thing happen on mine that I found after a couple test runs following the lift install:

Good lesson to learn when it happens and everything ended up safely at home. Double check the lock rings...