I put in the jk axle bushings, the only issue I had was finding bolts and the stamped mount did not want to hold the bushing, so I JB welded it. A trip the the junk yard got me some bolts from a dodge truck upper control arms.
I don't recall what he says about rod ends/heim joints, but most of the common control arm joints/bushings have an isolation material as part of their design.
Similar to the differences between spring rates, the assertion is that the differences between joints/bushings are not perceivable. I'll concede just a tiny bit and suggest that the differences are minor to the point of insignificance.
Something else he often brings up is that unless you are only making single changes, how do you know what is contributing to whatever change your are perceiving.
I put in the jk axle bushings, the only issue I had was finding bolts and the stamped mount did not want to hold the bushing, so I JB welded it. A trip the the junk yard got me some bolts from a dodge truck upper control arms.
I agree on concept, but not many people want to take their vehicle apart many times to solve a problem that can be done on the first go around...If you really want to isolate the problem only change one variable at a time. This is a practice I use in custom reloading for long range accuracy as well as pinpointing many other problems. Change more than one variable at a time and you will forever chase your own tail.
Just use the JB weld, its a 10 minute job unless you beat on your stuff, then if it comes loose, fix it then. I am interested in how the spring rate change affected the ride...with the same shocks. I may want to swap mine out later, once I mess with the driveshaft vibes and death wobble problems.Thats what I thought you did. But after talking with the Synergy tech I thought maybe I was misunderstanding everyone. I was really confused because it was a Synergy tech that told me to use the JK bushings when I called about it several months ago. Sounds like it was just a matter of the tech I talked to this time not knowing anything.
I've been tempted to try the JK kit with the solid mounting plate (#8012-12) . But since its not the right height for the TJ, I'm concerned that by the time I have the plate cut to fit and pay someone to weld it in, I'll wish I just went with the Currie kit.
Just use the JB weld, its a 10 minute job unless you beat on your stuff, then if it comes loose, fix it then. I am interested in how the spring rate change affected the ride...with the same shocks. I may want to swap mine out later, once I mess with the driveshaft vibes and death wobble problems.
Hey, at least you will be able to give good info on your impression of the change.
I like my ddb bushing control arms, nice ride...
I just got the Synergy DDB bushings about an hour ago for the front upper axle. Here is a picture of the Synergy next to the Rancho D2 control arms. Obviuosly they are different bushing locations so some differences in design. The DDB also has a larger bolt hole because it is for a JK. I will just drill out my control arm yoke to fit the bigger bolt.
The material feels pretty similar to the touch and the sleeve also looks pretty similar in material. I don't really have a way to test the resistance to see how they feel in that respect. But just looking at them and feeling the materials, they feel like they are likely the same thing. So they could be the same mfg, but its still really hard to say.
One big difference that I noticed was the bolt sleeve inside Rancho D2 bushing sleeve fit really tight. They Synergy DDB bolt sleeve pops in and out easily with a little pressure from my thumb. Its interstesting that it kind of snaps in and out, but I don't see any kind of grove that it is snapping into.
Who was it again that had the Giiro joint? Did that sleeve kind of snap in and out or did it slide really easy? It makes me wonder if the Giiro joint and Synergy are indeed the same bushing. Along with the Rancho D2. They seem to have some similar characteristices. It may be just be a quality control issue that some slide in and out where others fit tight.
Anyway, I was disappointed that they are not a tight sleeve. This makes me question if I will have wear issues down the road and leaves me wondering if maybe I should have just gone with a JJ but we'll see. At this point it really depends on how durable that Teflon liner is.
View attachment 103282
Some advice from a fellow DDB convert ... throw them in and enjoy the ride !!! They’re great, they tighten up the Jeep. I am confidant they will do so until they don’t, I won’t stress about their durability until they fail which I hope is a long time from now. Until then enjoy the ride ...
BTW: I noticed that some bushings are tight and some are lose (like you said). I wouldn’t worry too much about contamination as I assume the “soft” bushing material makes a decent seal... again, we will soon see ...
PS: those axle bushings are a BEAR!
Looks great! How much lift are you running ???Synergy bushings (and a couple JJs) flexing.
View attachment 104791View attachment 104787View attachment 104788
3.25 inch
In my personal opinion, bushings, no matter what they are made of, don't help flex or articulation in a meaningful or significant amount. If you want a joint to help give more usable flex go with a quality flex joint like a Johnny Joint.Synergy bushings (and a couple JJs) flexing.
View attachment 104791View attachment 104787View attachment 104788
In my personal opinion, bushings, no matter what they are made of, don't help flex or articulation in a meaningful or significant amount. If you want a joint to help give more usable flex go with a quality flex joint like a Johnny Joint.