Does control arm bushing composition affect ride quality or NVH?

That thread is not indicative of how a JJ typically performs.
After working on helicopters in the army for 8 years, all joints that are not pure rubber can do that fairly quickly when they decide to go...that is why I am looking at the synergy bushings. They are the closest to a rubber impregnated, multi layer lord mount that I have found in the auto industry. Tim
 
If the Kevlar fuzz is there to add reenforcement to the bushing material, was there a problem that needed to be addressed?
 
If the Kevlar fuzz is there to add reenforcement to the bushing material, was there a problem that needed to be addressed?

Maybe some abrasion resistance. Who knows because they will not tell you.
 
Mr Blaine, care to share any insight as to how the Synergy bushings are performing in your wifes Jeep? Are they still in there? They should have some miles on them by now. Thanks for your insight.
 
Mr Blaine, one last thing. Since Syngery doesn't seem to have a DDB bushing for that location, what would you recoommend if I was to go with the DDB bushing instead of a JJ system? Would you put in new Clevite or JJ at the axle? Thank you
 
Mr Blaine, one last thing. Since Syngery doesn't seem to have a DDB bushing for that location, what would you recoommend if I was to go with the DDB bushing instead of a JJ system? Would you put in new Clevite or JJ at the axle? Thank you

I am going with JJs as you only install the main bushing bodies once vs pushing them in each time you need to service them. To me that makes more sense than risking messing up the housing or passenger side bracket. Synergy used DDBs with JJs in some of their arms when they were first introduced so centering is really not an issue or they would not have done it.
 
Ok, here it is. Discuss. Set your butt dynos aside and lets see if we can find some real data and not just observations.
After spending hundreds getting rid of my RE super flex control arms and going 100% rubber joints, All rubber joints on my new track bars, rubber in my shocks, my ride is smooth and has less felt vibrations, to me. I am more of a fan of rubber than poly.....
 
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After spending hundreds getting rid of my RE super flex control arms and going 100% rubber joints, All rubber joints on my new track bars, rubber in my shocks, my ride is smooth and has less felt vibrations, to me. I am more of a fan of rubber than poly.....

I've never considered before the NVH transferred to the cabin via the shock mounts. I wonder how much difference rubber shock mounts will make. Any NVH transferred from the shock mount would also have to pass through the rubber seals around the piston, so it seems like it would be pretty minimal.

Who's control arms did you go with once you decided so go with rubber mounts? I am still torn between the Clevite, Synergy DDB (which I believe are poly) and good old Johnny Joints. Each joint seems to have its trade offs. I guess the key is to find which trade offs fit your need the best. I wish I had the opportunity to experience them in person. In the flat lands of ND nobody builds up TJs.
 
I've never considered before the NVH transferred to the cabin via the shock mounts. I wonder how much difference rubber shock mounts will make. Any NVH transferred from the shock mount would also have to pass through the rubber seals around the piston, so it seems like it would be pretty minimal.

Who's control arms did you go with once you decided so go with rubber mounts? I am still torn between the Clevite, Synergy DDB (which I believe are poly) and good old Johnny Joints. Each joint seems to have its trade offs. I guess the key is to find which trade offs fit your need the best. I wish I had the opportunity to experience them in person. In the flat lands of ND nobody builds up TJs.

The tradoffs are this:

Clevite gives good control of NVH with mediocre off highway performance at the lowest cost. They are also a pain to replace in the future.

DDB so far in my butt dyno testing gives good NVH control, good off highway performance at a slightly higher cost. They are much easier to service than clevites but you still need a press.

JJs might give up a small amount of NVH control but in reality the average driver is just not going to notice. They give the best off highway performance at the highest cost of the three. While you need a special tool to service you do not need a press so that is worth noting as well.

My Jeep is not a good candidate for the butt dyno but I have noticed no change from going to the DDB over clevite so far. I still have the rear arms to do so that may change or not. My friends JK we put Synergy arms all the way around and you would be hard pressed to tell them over clevites.
 
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The Duroflex bushings have a durometer similar to a Clevite bushing, don't require any special tools to replace, and don't require any servicing per say. Maybe an occasional cleaning and a fresh coat of synthetic grease to keep them rotating freely in the barrel.
 
I have a plan for the 4326-02 I'll find out if viable next week.

Bringing the thread back to life. What was your plan for that JK bushing and why didn't it work out. I got an email back from Synergy today and it sounds like they quite building the TJ bushing due to slow sales. The guy said you could use the JK bushing but you had to drill out the holes on the clevis because the JK uses a bigger bolt. It sounds like a simple enough solution if you want DDB all around.


Chris - any news on your Jeep. Did you ever get to ask Dave some of those questions we had.
 
The stock passenger side UCA bracket was somewhat bent, and the sides had collapsed .2 inch inward. When it came time to attempt removing the original bushing, I could see the bracket wasn't suitable for a simple press-in option.

Enlarging the holes in the UCA yoke to 12mm was not a problem. I did it anyway to use the JJs. Synergy also offers a forged replacement yoke with 12mm bolt-holes as an alternative to drilling.

Adjusting pinion angle reached a point where adjustable LCAs were needed for the rear. I installed Synergy arms.
77069
 
The stock passenger side UCA bracket was somewhat bent, and the sides had collapsed .2 inch inward. When it came time to attempt removing the original bushing, I could see the bracket wasn't suitable for a simple press-in option.

Enlarging the holes in the UCA yoke to 12mm was not a problem. I did it anyway to use the JJs. Synergy also offers a forged replacement yoke with 12mm bolt-holes as an alternative to drilling.

Adjusting pinion angle reached a point where adjustable LCAs were needed for the rear. I installed Synergy arms.
View attachment 77069
What is your pinion angle? How much lift are you running? I like the synergy arms.. How much did you have to shorten the lower arms to? Do you have much clearnance between the gas tank and diff cover? Gawd, too many questions after taking an ambien...
 
8.6 degrees rear pinon angle
3" lift
rear LCA's were lengthened to 16"

The TJ has a 1" engine lift, stock skid plate with .25" drop, stock single cardan driveshaft, and TC output is at 8.2 degrees. With a slightly longer than stock Moog rear trackbar on an upright relocation bracket, and 1" body lift, there is space for everything to move without conflict. The UCAs reached their limit for rotating the pinon downward on 2" lift springs. A minor belly-up and SYE are in its future.
 
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