Very cool. What did you use for the compressor mount? Are you finding any issues with compressor oil being blown out? You definitely need to provide details on the shower!
Greg's 05 LJ Build
- Thread starter LJGreg
- Start date
At the time it was a Kibly system, they has since closed but you can get the mount and pulley from Air Boss
https://www.cuoffroad.com/product-lines/ Now there may be others selling products that may also work
Yes I also installed a filter prior to my manifold block to remove the oil. I do check the oil level from time to time and do add oil but not very often.
https://www.cuoffroad.com/product-lines/ Now there may be others selling products that may also work
Yes I also installed a filter prior to my manifold block to remove the oil. I do check the oil level from time to time and do add oil but not very often.
On the shower I will have to get some pictures when I get the jeep back in town next week. But I can tell you the water coming out was so hot I had to add a tempering valve to lower the temperature. This picture was last year on the Rubicon, my son and nephew took my jeep down to the river and used a tarp and made a hot tub / spa. They removed the hand held shower from the end of the hose and used rocks to prop it up and hold it in place. They then pulled cold river water and made hot water to fill the spa.
On the shower I will have to get some pictures when I get the jeep back in town next week. But I can tell you the water coming out was so hot I had to add a tempering valve to lower the temperature. This picture was last year on the Rubicon, my son and nephew took my jeep down to the river and used a tarp and made a hot tub / spa. They removed the hand held shower from the end of the hose and used rocks to prop it up and hold it in place. They then pulled cold river water and made hot water to fill the spa.
View attachment 102712
Haha, that's friggin' awesome!
Got my tweeter pods in and mounted on my A-pillars. I would have preferred a hidden install but it looks good and the sound is excellent now.
Yes quite a bit better. You can clearly hear the highs and the soundstage feels more like it is coming from the front. My amp has a DSP built in so I have it fully active but still need to play with the levels.
My little adventure this morning.
Had to take a 90 minute ferry to Victoria but scored some brand new Mopar Rubicon fender flares for an exceptional price. Worth the trip!
Had to take a 90 minute ferry to Victoria but scored some brand new Mopar Rubicon fender flares for an exceptional price. Worth the trip!
So in swapping out my flares I needed to replace my rivnuts. I also hated those plastic nuts so decided to swap them as well. I have three sets of Rubicon flares (I love Facebook Marketplace) so wanted to be able to change them up if I wanted (painted, unpainted and scratched, unpainted and brand new)
If anyone is looking to do the same:
Here are the parts I used from McMaster Carr:
Zinc-Plated Steel Heavy-Duty Rivet Nut, Open End, M5x.8 Interior Thread, .5-3.3 mm Material Thickness
18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Head Screw, M5 x 0.8 mm Thread, 20 mm Long
316 Stainless Steel Washer, Oversized, Number 10 Screw Size, 0.203" ID, 1" OD
316 Stainless Steel Washer, Oversized, Number 10 Screw Size, 0.203" ID, 0.75" OD
Also picked up this Marson metric set (M39316)
I drilled out all the old rivnuts and smaller holes with a 17/64 bit
Filed the edges then applied touch up paint to make sure it won't rust
Applied a little bit of loctite before compressing.
Installed with some anti seize. Two of the bolts in each front flare needed the smaller washers for clearance. I hand started it then used a 1/4 air ratchet to make quick work of it.
If anyone is looking to do the same:
Here are the parts I used from McMaster Carr:
Zinc-Plated Steel Heavy-Duty Rivet Nut, Open End, M5x.8 Interior Thread, .5-3.3 mm Material Thickness
18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Head Screw, M5 x 0.8 mm Thread, 20 mm Long
316 Stainless Steel Washer, Oversized, Number 10 Screw Size, 0.203" ID, 1" OD
316 Stainless Steel Washer, Oversized, Number 10 Screw Size, 0.203" ID, 0.75" OD
Also picked up this Marson metric set (M39316)
I drilled out all the old rivnuts and smaller holes with a 17/64 bit
Filed the edges then applied touch up paint to make sure it won't rust
Applied a little bit of loctite before compressing.
Installed with some anti seize. Two of the bolts in each front flare needed the smaller washers for clearance. I hand started it then used a 1/4 air ratchet to make quick work of it.
Well I know what I will be working on this weekend. New tummy tuck, engine and gas tank skids arrived today.
First test fit. Looks pretty! Plan is to get it all installed then take it off and have all the bare metal powder coated. I am hoping I can press out the crossmember rubber bushings or else it can’t go in the oven.
Some clearance issues which I think is pretty normal. I am going to make sure my motor is properly centered before going at it with the grinder.
Some clearance issues which I think is pretty normal. I am going to make sure my motor is properly centered before going at it with the grinder.
The seller on eBay is valicar-stuttgart. He has a number of different option based on the size.
I purchased the gb10 and the Polk tweeters fit perfectly.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=274050273287
I purchased the gb10 and the Polk tweeters fit perfectly.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=274050273287
I tore down my York 210 and cleaned it all up in the parts washer. It cleaned up nice considering it is almost 30 years old. I have new gaskets and seals to put in.
Today is a good day!
So I have been chasing down alternator whine caused by a ground loop in my audio system for many months now. I had tried the following without success!
-common ground the amp and receiver
-common power the amp and receiver
-ground and power direct to the battery
-replaced RCAs and re-routed
-grounding the RCA on the back of the receiver
-disconnected antenna lead
-receiver illumination and accessory power straight from the battery
Finally as a last resort I tried floated the amp so it wasn't making any contact with the chassis and that fixed it! This is a $1000+ amp and its stupid chassis ground is tied into the audio circuitry!
3d printer to the rescue. I created some little isolator washers and problem solved.
So I have been chasing down alternator whine caused by a ground loop in my audio system for many months now. I had tried the following without success!
-common ground the amp and receiver
-common power the amp and receiver
-ground and power direct to the battery
-replaced RCAs and re-routed
-grounding the RCA on the back of the receiver
-disconnected antenna lead
-receiver illumination and accessory power straight from the battery
Finally as a last resort I tried floated the amp so it wasn't making any contact with the chassis and that fixed it! This is a $1000+ amp and its stupid chassis ground is tied into the audio circuitry!
3d printer to the rescue. I created some little isolator washers and problem solved.
So I finally finished my locker wiring and air plumbing. Up until this point I had my solenoids just hooked up to some spare SPOD switches. I went a little overboard on this install.
I wanted to keep it as factory as possible and try and keep the locker request safeguards (ie. have to be in 4lo and under 10mph) since I have others who sometimes drive the jeep. I decided to use a factory rubicon switch so swapped out the dash harness with one from a Rubicon that I was able to get at a good price. I also picked up a cheap PDU and a C170 harness pigtail.
I pulled the engine harness which needed to be reloomed anyways. I used some grey stripe loom, polyken 268 tape and tapecase non-adhesive vinyl (which is awesome). Here is an in-progress pic.
I completely disassembled the PDU and added in the extra fuse connector and relay connectors that came with the offroad package. I probably could have ran everything without the relays but given the price of the rubicon locker switch, I figured better safe than sorry.
Since the factory setup won't allow you to run front lockers without the rear, i'm just powering the ARB pump at the same time as the rear locker. My schematic.
Next up, I wanted to keep the logic where the dash light flashes if the lockers don't engage or disengage properly and is solid when they are properly engaged. I found some rugged, adjustable pressure sensors for cheap on ebay (ProSense MPS25-1C-D100D) and made a little air manifold out of square aluminum stock. I then plumbed them with a tee so they receive the same pressure as the locker. This definitely isn't a KISS approach but all this really does is control the locker dash light so a bad switch won't in any way impact the lockers engaging or not. They are all push fittings so I can easily bypass the manifold if I need a trail fix.
Overall it's been working great and i'm happy with the clean look.
I wanted to keep it as factory as possible and try and keep the locker request safeguards (ie. have to be in 4lo and under 10mph) since I have others who sometimes drive the jeep. I decided to use a factory rubicon switch so swapped out the dash harness with one from a Rubicon that I was able to get at a good price. I also picked up a cheap PDU and a C170 harness pigtail.
I pulled the engine harness which needed to be reloomed anyways. I used some grey stripe loom, polyken 268 tape and tapecase non-adhesive vinyl (which is awesome). Here is an in-progress pic.
I completely disassembled the PDU and added in the extra fuse connector and relay connectors that came with the offroad package. I probably could have ran everything without the relays but given the price of the rubicon locker switch, I figured better safe than sorry.
Since the factory setup won't allow you to run front lockers without the rear, i'm just powering the ARB pump at the same time as the rear locker. My schematic.
Next up, I wanted to keep the logic where the dash light flashes if the lockers don't engage or disengage properly and is solid when they are properly engaged. I found some rugged, adjustable pressure sensors for cheap on ebay (ProSense MPS25-1C-D100D) and made a little air manifold out of square aluminum stock. I then plumbed them with a tee so they receive the same pressure as the locker. This definitely isn't a KISS approach but all this really does is control the locker dash light so a bad switch won't in any way impact the lockers engaging or not. They are all push fittings so I can easily bypass the manifold if I need a trail fix.
Overall it's been working great and i'm happy with the clean look.
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