Picking up where I left off

[starkey480]

It already had a 241 and since I have a spare, I'll leave it for now. This is how we do an Atlas install. We build a stiffener across the back to finish it off.

View attachment 197389View attachment 197390I believe the "extra clearance" version would be a fairly easy install if the atlas was clocked around 7-13*. The "ultra-high clearance" would likely involve a fair amount of beating the tub but I'd bet it's doable with enough determination. (assuming a 1.25 BL)

Sounds like just getting the “extra clearance” skid would be the way to do it. Or lower the skid a tiny bit. This is a game of compromises isn’t it? Does the atlas use a different mount or could I use a Lopro with it?

 

[Chris]

You’d think AA could package those Atlas transfer cases a bit better to make them easier to install in tight spaces. I’m sure there is more to it, but you’d think.

 

[mrblaine]

You’d think AA could package those Atlas transfer cases a bit better to make them easier to install in tight spaces. I’m sure there is more to it, but you’d think.

No, because there is exactly zero logical reason to install a case into a TJ that can handle 600 horsepower. It is too big, too heavy, and too expensive for what we need. Sadly there is not a better alternative so we put up with all the bullshit that is an Atlas.

 

[B00mb00m]

No, because there is exactly zero logical reason to install a case into a TJ that can handle 600 horsepower. It is too big, too heavy, and too expensive for what we need. Sadly there is not a better alternative so we put up with all the bullshit that is an Atlas.

I was just looking at Atlas 2 this morning, I was pretty shocked to see it listed at weighing in at 110lbs. Stock is what maybe 60lbs?

 

[Chris]

No, because there is exactly zero logical reason to install a case into a TJ that can handle 600 horsepower. It is too big, too heavy, and too expensive for what we need. Sadly there is not a better alternative so we put up with all the bullshit that is an Atlas.

The RubiCrawler seems to be a nice option, though I guess if you don’t have a 42RLE that’s out of the question. I see what you’re saying though.

 

[Alex01]

I was just looking at Atlas 2 this morning, I was pretty shocked to see it listed at weighing in at 110lbs. Stock is what maybe 60lbs?

NP241 is 90lbs
NP231 is 70lbs

 

[Chris]

For those of you with outboard shocks and a rear Antirock, how are you handling the Antirock axle brackets and the new shock brackets? This is what mine currently looks like.

I plan to do the outboard conversion over the winter so I will need lots of pictorial guidelines and probably several phone calls to Blaine just to make sure I’m on the right track.

 

[Alex01]

For those of you with outboard shocks and a rear Antirock, how are you handling the Antirock axle brackets and the new shock brackets? This is what mine currently looks like.

View attachment 197469

I plan to do the outboard conversion over the winter so I will need lots of pictorial guidelines and probably several phone calls to Blaine just to make sure I’m on the right track.

It won't be in that spot when you're done. The lower mount for the outboard will be there. To the left of the lower spring pad on the axle you'll see a little rib. It will go right around that area.

Mines a bit further away from the rib than others I've seen but I needed it there to clear the tire.

 

[DrDmoney]

It already had a 241 and since I have a spare, I'll leave it for now. This is how we do an Atlas install. We build a stiffener across the back to finish it off.

View attachment 197389View attachment 197390

How much below the frame is that?

 

[mrblaine]

How much below the frame is that?

That doesn't tell the whole story. I have them bent up with 13" wide section in the middle that has a 1" drop. From there the two sides angle up to the narrow part of the frame at the front of the skid. The material is 3/8" so at the frame it is 3/8" lower than the frame. The lowest part in the middle 13" wide section is 1 3/8" below the frame.

 

[DrDmoney]

That doesn't tell the whole story. I have them bent up with 13" wide section in the middle that has a 1" drop. From there the two sides angle up to the narrow part of the frame at the front of the skid. The material is 3/8" so at the frame it is 3/8" lower than the frame. The lowest part in the middle 13" wide section is 1 3/8" below the frame.

The Atlas wasn‘t the low point on mine, the trans mount hardware was lower. The sharpie mark is flush to the frame the inside dim to the skid is 2” below that.

 

[mrblaine]

The Atlas wasn‘t the low point on mine, the trans mount hardware was lower. The sharpie mark is flush to the frame the inside dim to the skid is 2” below that.

View attachment 197527View attachment 197528View attachment 197529

I strongly disagree with that type skid. Why not keep the foot print of the lowered section as small as possible? You could just as easily make spacers at the frame and toss on a flat sheet of 3/8" with the same result.

That and it is quite common for us to remove the flange head bolts at the rear corner of the bottom access cover and replace them with counter sunk to keep them off of the skids.

 

[DrDmoney]

4.01 vs 3.83 so I'd lose crawl ratio unless I regear. I worked hard / spent a lot to get where I am so losing any would be bad imo.

https://www.midwesttrans.com/nv3550-5-speed-rebuilt-manual-transmissions/#

I think I would go this route too.

I strongly disagree with that type skid. Why not keep the foot print of the lowered section as small as possible? You could just as easily make spacers at the frame and toss on a flat sheet of 3/8" with the same result.

That and it is quite common for us to remove the flange head bolts at the rear corner of the bottom access cover and replace them with counter sunk to keep them off of the skids.

Good tip, next time I drop the skid I’ll swap them out.

 

[Chris]

Is there a better way to run this CB cable?

 

[tomtaylz]

I ran mine under the Jeep via through the back of the taillight if I remember right.

 

[rasband]

I ran mine under the Jeep via through the back of the taillight if I remember right.

+1 to this, I ran it down the driver side and through the grommet. However mine didn’t go to the passenger side out back (though it could have).

 

[jodomcfrodo]

I drilled through the body on mine and added a rubber grommet after going through the existing grommet on the driver side tub. It barely fits coming out of the tub with the savvy tail lights. I believe the best way to run it for you may be to drill though the back of the tub vertically on the passenger side and then out the back somewhere near the tail light. Though the corner armor may make it a bit harder to look clean.

A little hard to describe over text, but I think it looks good and is never in the way.

 

[MountaineerTom]

Since you’re on the passengers side, drill a hole inside tub, rubber grommet, out under the bottom of tail light.

Watch the evap stuff when drilling.

 

[Chris]

Since you’re on the passengers side, drill a hole inside tub, rubber grommet, out under the bottom of tail light.

Watch the evap stuff when drilling.

I drilled through the body on mine and added a rubber grommet after going through the existing grommet on the driver side tub. It barely fits coming out of the tub with the savvy tail lights. I believe the best way to run it for you may be to drill though the back of the tub vertically on the passenger side and then out the back somewhere near the tail light. Though the corner armor may make it a bit harder to look clean.

A little hard to describe over text, but I think it looks good and is never in the way.

The problem I am having is that in order for the end of the coax cable to fit through, it would have to be an excessively large hole, no?

This was also my original idea, but like I said, the end of the cable is going to call for a sizable hole.

 

[MountaineerTom]

The problem I am having is that in order for the end of the coax cable to fit through, it would have to be an excessively large hole, no?

This was also my original idea, but like I said, the end of the cable is going to call for a sizable hole.

You might be able to go slightly smaller. Find a few different size grommets. See if you can stretch them over the connector. Fill the gap in the grommet with some RTV/silicone.

Or re-route it to the drivers side.