No its on my list. along with my upgraded steering. right now im reading threads about pinion and caster angles. i was told my caster angle was off in the front. im guessing the control arms will help with that??
The Official Tummy Tuck FAQ Thread
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Who told you your caster angle is off? Do you have good return to center when turning?
Control arms allow you to change the caster in addition to setting the pinion angle.
i took my jeep to 4 Wheel Parts for a diagnostic. I just wanted to make sure nothing major was going on i didn't see. most of what they told me i already had on my list of swaps or repairs. they told me it was off, but didn't give me the measurements im sure they took.
Oh ok, hows your return to center on your steering? Pinion angle takes priority over caster angle so there's some room to move around in degrees and still be acceptable caster.
Ill check my return to center tomorrow. however i need to center my steering wheel anyway and i still have a lot of play in my steering wheel. i am swapping the steering for a ZJ upgrade kit at some point soon. hoping to reduce the play.
03, 4.0/NV3550, 1” mml, 1” bl, Savvy TT, 3.5” suspension lift.
My shifter is a tad higher and forward from where it was, the transfer case will be a tight fit and while some have luck with the stock TC shifter, I went with a cable shifter and think it’s one of the best upgrades I’ve done.
In the front, the enemy is caster, trying to get the pinion angle right, I ended up with 3 degrees caster...
My rear pinion is at 26 degrees, be prepared to move your axle side track bar bracket, also make sure you cycle the suspension and watch how the pinion reacts, my geometry was off.
If I have an atlas that is clocked flat, would I need a body lift for the UCF flat tummy tuck on an LJ?
That's a unique question. Only a few probably have an atlas here.. Your probably better off asking that in that the general section in hopes that someone with an atlas and a tummy tuck sees it.
On a side note. How hard was the atlas to install? I have heard mixed answers.
Well you can get a clocking ring for any of the mopar bolt pattern Transfercases, I tried to flip a dana 300 and clock it flat, wound up being difficult to shift but I could clock it 6 different positions which may help with installing a tummy tuck. I just dont know if anyone has done this and been able to clear the tummy tuck and tub. Tim
OP
@mrblaine had an answer to a similar question at one point that went into detail, I just can't seem to find his post.
This would be a topic for a new thread though if you want more responses.
has anyone ever tried modifying the stock skid plate to just cut off and turn up the front shovel end. I would think that is where most of the hang-ups would occur and if that was modified it would be a good cheap step in the right direction.
OP
Chris, it might not be the whole problem or even the biggest part of the problem but it is at least part of the problem in my opinion. If you are talking about getting "high centered" and hung up then the shovel front isn't relevant. but if you look at the front of the skid and how it hangs down it has to be more likely to get caught on something than a center rounded rib for example. I know making the change wouldn't solve the whole problem but it would eliminate at least some of the potential hang ups that one could experience.
If you want the skid to slide over stuff, you need to extend the front section out preferably to cover the oil pan. Even so, with the ribs and funky shape of the skid it would still get hung up. It is just a thin stamped piece that needs all that "shape" to add strength.
OP
X2 to this. The only way to fix the stock one so you wouldn't get hung up as much would be to extend the front section out and up. Even then though, like Rob said, you'll get stuck on the ribs.
By all means, modify it if you want, I personally just think it's a waste.
Chris, I'm sure you're right since you and so many others have been down this road already, I just like doing my own mods when I can, especially when there's some metal fab involved. I'm going to read through all of this again to find the right skid plate for me. Just wondering if somewhere in here there is a consensus on which one give the most bang for the buck. I've already got the body lift, sye, CV drive shaft, etc. I think I just need to do a mm lift and swap out the skids. As always any feedback on best direction to go is appreciated
Brianj5600
TJ Expert
It seem like every time i go wheelin, my shovel tucks a little closer to the frame...especially at the front.
This is on my short list. I have a few questions.
How much higher can the tc go with 1.25" bl?
Why is mml limited to 1" if the tc is lifted more than 1"?
Is there a way to shorten a Rubicon tc rear output? I've seen a couple yokes offered,but not sure if they would be beneficial over the stock flange?
Does adjusting only the uca cause s 35" tire to hit the stock wheel opening at the resr? Mine is already tight in compression.
More to come.
This is on my short list. I have a few questions.
How much higher can the tc go with 1.25" bl?
Why is mml limited to 1" if the tc is lifted more than 1"?
Is there a way to shorten a Rubicon tc rear output? I've seen a couple yokes offered,but not sure if they would be beneficial over the stock flange?
Does adjusting only the uca cause s 35" tire to hit the stock wheel opening at the resr? Mine is already tight in compression.
More to come.
@Farmergreg, I'm sure folks following this thread would be interested interested in your recent UCF install / tuck!