The Official Tummy Tuck FAQ Thread

Brianj5600 said:
It seem like every time i go wheelin, my shovel tucks a little closer to the frame...especially at the front.

This is on my short list. I have a few questions.

How much higher can the tc go with 1.25" bl?

Why is mml limited to 1" if the tc is lifted more than 1"?

Is there a way to shorten a Rubicon tc rear output? I've seen a couple yokes offered,but not sure if they would be beneficial over the stock flange?

Does adjusting only the uca cause s 35" tire to hit the stock wheel opening at the resr? Mine is already tight in compression.

More to come.
Click to expand...

You can go pretty high with a 1.25" body lift. The Savvy TT is nearly flat under the frame and only requires a 1.25" BL.

MML question (SEE JMT BELOW)

I believe some companies do make yokes for the rubicon t-case, but I think there are some drawbacks to them (they were briefly covered in the harmonic vibrations thread). There are a few members here with Savvy TT's and rubicon transfer cases. I don't think shortening the rubicon case is beneficial unless you are running a fairly large suspension lift.

While I don't know the answer about the 35" clearances, I will add that if you are getting a TT, it is smart to have all 8 adjustable control arms. I'm not sure I would want to jack my transfer case up very high unless I had all 8 fully adjustable arms.
 
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FYI, there are higher MML's. For example, Brown Dog sells a 1.5" and 2", though these have special applications.

Anxiously following your questions Brianj....

Oh, and there are going to be interferences if you do more than 1" MML at the transmission tunnel. You'd have to do some modification there. But the 1.25" BL is the best for most clearance with a TT without becoming an idiot by going with a taller BL.

You could do the Original Extra Clearance by UCF and avoid lots of possible problems.
 
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jodomcfrodo said:
You can go pretty high with a 1.25" body lift. The Savvy TT is nearly flat under the frame and only requires a 1.25" BL.

MML question (SEE JMT BELOW)

I believe some companies do make yokes for the rubicon t-case, but I think there are some drawbacks to them (they were briefly covered in the harmonic vibrations thread). There are a few members here with Savvy TT's and rubicon transfer cases. I don't think shortening the rubicon case is beneficial unless you are running a fairly large suspension lift.

While I don't know the answer about the 35" clearances, I will add that if you are getting a TT, it is smart to have all 8 adjustable control arms. I'm not sure I would want to jack my transfer case up very high unless I had all 8 fully adjustable arms.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. Same advice I would have given.
 
Brianj5600 said:
It seem like every time i go wheelin, my shovel tucks a little closer to the frame...especially at the front.

This is on my short list. I have a few questions.

How much higher can the tc go with 1.25" bl?

Why is mml limited to 1" if the tc is lifted more than 1"?

Is there a way to shorten a Rubicon tc rear output? I've seen a couple yokes offered,but not sure if they would be beneficial over the stock flange?

Does adjusting only the uca cause s 35" tire to hit the stock wheel opening at the resr? Mine is already tight in compression.

More to come.
Click to expand...
On the 35's question, how much SL and BL do you have?

The UCA will allow you to adjust your pinion angle of your Dana 44 so it is aimed directly at the output shaft of the SYE.
 
I have an honest 4" sl and no bl. My shovel is definitely pushed up in the area where the tc mount bolts on. It looks like I could move the tc up about 1.25" to 1.5" as it sits right now. Add 1.25" bl and 1" with lowered trans mount. 3.5" total would be nice.

It seems like maxing out mml would help with driveline angles. I am going to make my own motor mounts, so they can be any lift. A 1.25" bl should allow a 1.25" mml without changing tunnel or fan shroud clearance.

I may have to raise the rear flares as funds are a concern. I would like to put an adjustable Johnny Joint on my lower and build some adjustable upper links.

Next question...I only see positives, but is there a downside to adding a cross member to support the tc vs bolting it to the skid?
 
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Brianj5600 said:
I have an honest 4" sl and no bl. My shovel is definitely pushed up in the area where the tc mount bolts on. It looks like I could move the tc up about 1.25" to 1.5" as it sits right now. Add 1.25" bl and 1" with lowered trans mount. 3.5" total would be nice.

It seems like maxing out mml would help with driveline angles. I am going to make my own motor mounts, so they can be any lift. A 1.25" bl should allow a 1.25" mml without changing tunnel or fan shroud clearance.

I may have to raise the rear flares as funds are a concern. I would like to put an adjustable Johnny Joint on my lower and build some adjustable upper links.

Next question...I only see positives, but is there a downside to adding a cross member to support the tc vs bolting it to the skid?
Click to expand...
If you added a 1” BL you’d be ready for 35’s with your setup.

I’m leary of going over 1” on the MML. I know you’re just barely going over, but think of the effects for the tranny clearance. You’re trying to correct for driveline angles with the MML and that’s very helpful for lifts 3” and under, but the best solution for your setup is a SS SYE and DC. Bottom line is I’d stick with a 1” MML.

No downside to adding a cross member. It’s an advantage. It makes it easier to remove the skid when you need to work up in there, since there’s no need to support the transmission bell housing.

I think you’d get something out of @CasterTroy build. He’s on 2” SL and 36’s. If you want to know how, visit

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/h8mud.453/page-7
 
I'm not trying to bypass a dc driveshaft, adjustable arms, etc. I'm thinking that getting the best possible driveline angles would give it better street manners and more reliable.
 
Following along here to avoid all the "gotchas" when I do my tummy tuck. That Savvy set up looks like the way to go! Anyone know those guys? What's the backorder situation like? How long can one expect to wait for this fabulous product? :)

Once upon a time, a company called 33 Engineering made a really nice crossmember and skid combo. I had it installed on an '03 Rubi. I think they used the Nth Degree transmission mount to gain a little space... That crossmember made everything very easily serviceable.

Man, I've been away from the Jeep scene for a while, but Nth doesn't seem to be the same company they were before...

So about that back order...
 
nathanotis said:
Following along here to avoid all the "gotchas" when I do my tummy tuck. That Savvy set up looks like the way to go! Anyone know those guys? What's the backorder situation like? How long can one expect to wait for this fabulous product? :)

Once upon a time, a company called 33 Engineering made a really nice crossmember and skid combo. I had it installed on an '03 Rubi. I think they used the Nth Degree transmission mount to gain a little space... That crossmember made everything very easily serviceable.

Man, I've been away from the Jeep scene for a while, but Nth doesn't seem to be the same company they were before...

So about that back order...
Click to expand...

Mine shipped out within a week but that was back in September. Savvy is in full KOH mode right now. From what it sounded like when I talked to them over the phone on Wednesday, there isn't even anyone in the office right now to ship out parts. You're always going to wait a while to get your Savvy parts. That is just a part of ordering from them.
 
nathanotis said:
Following along here to avoid all the "gotchas" when I do my tummy tuck. That Savvy set up looks like the way to go! Anyone know those guys? What's the backorder situation like? How long can one expect to wait for this fabulous product? :)

Once upon a time, a company called 33 Engineering made a really nice crossmember and skid combo. I had it installed on an '03 Rubi. I think they used the Nth Degree transmission mount to gain a little space... That crossmember made everything very easily serviceable.

Man, I've been away from the Jeep scene for a while, but Nth doesn't seem to be the same company they were before...

So about that back order...
Click to expand...

My Savvy skid took 6 weeks.
 
jodomcfrodo said:
You can go pretty high with a 1.25" body lift. The Savvy TT is nearly flat under the frame and only requires a 1.25" BL.

MML question (SEE JMT BELOW)

I believe some companies do make yokes for the rubicon t-case, but I think there are some drawbacks to them (they were briefly covered in the harmonic vibrations thread). There are a few members here with Savvy TT's and rubicon transfer cases. I don't think shortening the rubicon case is beneficial unless you are running a fairly large suspension lift.

While I don't know the answer about the 35" clearances, I will add that if you are getting a TT, it is smart to have all 8 adjustable control arms. I'm not sure I would want to jack my transfer case up very high unless I had all 8 fully adjustable arms.
Click to expand...

If you want to get rid of the harmonic balancer on the rear of the transfer case you could order a stock front t-case yoke and install it on the rear instead of the original flange style. I did that Rubicon back in 2004.
 
Got the tummy tuck installed on the Rubicon. No major hiccups with this set up that we found. Didn't have to do any tub clearancing. Figured I'd share for those looking for a semi-cost friendly TT. Already had a 1" MML & 1.25 BL installed on the TJ.
-UCF steel extra clearance skid
-Tom Woods Drive shaft
-Savvy Cable Shifter
-Core 4x4 Tier 2 upper rear control arms

78892

A few notes, added a washer for cleaning ease and give a space for moisture to clear. Trimmed the rear lower spring perches due to interference with the shock, also gives a place to drain; the perches were caked with mud.
78893

Real happy that the shovel has been removed and with the clearance gained. Also got the Savvy gas tank skid installed at the same time, significant clearance increase from the OEM, that skid is awesome.
 
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What is the cause of the exhaust hitting the tub and making the noise? Is it the tummy tuck, or the motor mount lift? I just did a 1.25" body lift and 1" tummy tuck, and I'm getting a weird metal sound in the back. Only on occasion, I think when slowing down.

I know cat back exhaust aren't popular here, but I was wondering if that could fix the issue. And, if I should wait until the tummy tuck to try to resolve the exhaust issue, if this is the cause.
 
If the exhaust is touching the body, it should be obvious to see. I'm thinking it should be a fairly simple change. Might involve a cut & weld but still pretty basic stuff.
 
IPerkWVU said:
Got the tummy tuck installed on the Rubicon. No major hiccups with this set up that we found. Didn't have to do any tub clearancing. Figured I'd share for those looking for a semi-cost friendly TT. Already had a 1" MML & 1.25 BL installed on the TJ.
-UCF steel extra clearance skid
-Tom Woods Drive shaft
-Savvy Cable Shifter
-Core 4x4 Tier 2 upper rear control arms

View attachment 78892
A few notes, added a washer for cleaning ease and give a space for moisture to clear. Trimmed the rear lower spring perches due to interference with the shock, also gives a place to drain; the perches were caked with mud.
View attachment 78893
Real happy that the shovel has been removed and with the clearance gained. Also got the Savvy gas tank skid installed at the same time, significant clearance increase from the OEM, that skid is awesome.
Click to expand...
Definitely my next mod. !!!!! Looks fabulous .
 
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billiebob said:
If the exhaust is touching the body, it should be obvious to see. I'm thinking it should be a fairly simple change. Might involve a cut & weld but still pretty basic stuff.
Click to expand...

That's fair. I admit, I haven't gotten around to looking yet.

One of the reasons I wondered about a cat back. This article:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/154-0903-jeep-wrangler-cat-back-exhaust-shootout/Seemed to say that the Magnaflow would fit well. The test mule is a TJ with a Currie lift, 1" body lift and 35; which probably doesn't matter. Only difference is I've got an LJ, and dunno if the TJ has a motor mount lift.

Dunno, maybe I'm just looking for an excuse to get a cat back exhaust, and not get shamed for it.

I'm probably going to fix my transmission first, then do the 32 gallon tank swap, before the tummy tuck. Unless I get driveline vibes, then the tummy tuck will get bumped to the top, so I only buy driveshafts once.
 
Thunder Mass said:
That's fair. I admit, I haven't gotten around to looking yet.

One of the reasons I wondered about a cat back. This article:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/154-0903-jeep-wrangler-cat-back-exhaust-shootout/Seemed to say that the Magnaflow would fit well. The test mule is a TJ with a Currie lift, 1" body lift and 35; which probably doesn't matter. Only difference is I've got an LJ, and dunno if the TJ has a motor mount lift.

Dunno, maybe I'm just looking for an excuse to get a cat back exhaust, and not get shamed for it.

I'm probably going to fix my transmission first, then do the 32 gallon tank swap, before the tummy tuck. Unless I get driveline vibes, then the tummy tuck will get bumped to the top, so I only buy driveshafts once.
Click to expand...
I have a Pacesetter cat back on one of my jeeps, mandrel bent tubing and was the best bang for the buck I found on the internet. No one will give a crap if you have a cat back and they do give some performance gains, more gains will be had with other performance modifications like a stroker, oversize throttle body, etc. I would not worry about the opinion on a cat back; angry eyes grill or a JK maybe but not an exhaust.
 
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