Yes, lots of people here have. Something to be aware of: the Lo-pro mount causes vibes in the idle range of 500-900rpm.
The Official Tummy Tuck FAQ Thread
- Thread starter Chris
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Yes, lots of people here have. Something to be aware of: the Lo-pro mount causes vibes in the idle range of 500-900rpm.
The Lopro mount is a terrible design.
Don't be afraid of the body lift. Best bang for the buck mod on TJs. Any "tuck" without a body lift is mostly a compromise.
Therbytj
Member
Thats good to hear haha, unfortunate.
I agree, just opens a can of worms I don’t care to do right now. Body lift, re set arms for pinion, lower lift springs(im sitting at just over 5” from my currie springs) weld on the body mounts i have that eliminate spacer on the 3 frame spots
Just wanted something a little better then the stock skid and its so bent up its a pain to install. The jeep works as is and I don’t really wish to change much as the future is looking like a 4dr minivan for myself
Hi all - new member here! I tried reading through all these pages but one thing has me scratching my head on the tummy tuck. I am planning out my 06 TJ X (4.0, auto) build, and was considering BL / MML when adding rock sliders in anticipation of doing UCF Extra Clearance skid at some point in the future.
However, there is a lot of talk about extra parts needed for a tummy tuck. My Jeep already has a 3" sus lift (JKS) - has lower front non-adj CA (stock upper), rear upper adjust CA (stock lower), and I added SYE and driveshaft as part of that project. It runs on 33's now and thats all I plan on.
QUESTION: If I add a 1.25 BL to accommodate the extra clearance skid, do I still need a MMA since I already have a SYE and driveshaft? And what about the control arms? My current setup rides perfect / zero vibes so my only reason for even considering a BL / MMA would be to accommodate a skid plate. Is it even worth it with the setup I already have?
However, there is a lot of talk about extra parts needed for a tummy tuck. My Jeep already has a 3" sus lift (JKS) - has lower front non-adj CA (stock upper), rear upper adjust CA (stock lower), and I added SYE and driveshaft as part of that project. It runs on 33's now and thats all I plan on.
QUESTION: If I add a 1.25 BL to accommodate the extra clearance skid, do I still need a MMA since I already have a SYE and driveshaft? And what about the control arms? My current setup rides perfect / zero vibes so my only reason for even considering a BL / MMA would be to accommodate a skid plate. Is it even worth it with the setup I already have?
The partial tummy tuck will lift the tranny a couple of inches, pointing the TC output shaft more upwards. An MML will help to bring the TC back down a little. Even with an SYE and DC driveshaft, reducing the angles is a good thing.
Something to consider: A BL will also let you raise your gas tank by 1". You can modify the OEM skid pretty easily, or replace it with something tougher.
Something to consider: A BL will also let you raise your gas tank by 1". You can modify the OEM skid pretty easily, or replace it with something tougher.
It won’t change the suspension just raise the body to give you room to tuck the transfer case up. Then you need the motor raised to help get the drive shafts a little happier. You also need to raise the the steering shaft to line it up better.
Yeah but I guess that’s my question…does my aftermarket driveshaft and sye I installed for the sus lift give me the flexibility where mml isn’t needed? I guess the install is pretty easy so I’ll prob do mml anyway, I’m just curious. I think OldBuzzard already answered that it still helps
Yeah but I guess that’s my question…does my aftermarket driveshaft and sye I installed for the sus lift give me the flexibility where mml isn’t needed? I guess the install is pretty easy so I’ll prob do mml anyway, I’m just curious. I think OldBuzzard already answered that it still helps
First, put it all together without a MML. If your driveshaft DC joint can flex far enough (without stressing it) for the driveshaft to go as low as it needs when the axle is at the bottom of its travel, you're good. If it's getting close to where the DC joint is near its limit, add a MML. Also, the pinion will be pretty steep without a MML, and your shocks may hit the lower spring perches. An MML might get the pinion low enough to alleviate that, too.
Any known pics out there that show this situation? I remember reading about this years ago but never really found any photos to show how close the contact is.
There was a pic a couple months ago. I forget who. But most pics of the UCF mount will show it because they plainly show steel plates stacked on steel plates with a bushing sitting off to the side not doing any isolating within the trans mount assembly.
I have one of those waiting to be installed. Did you have any unexpected issues to deal with?
FYSA during the TJ Fest at Moab this last week a couple of us (me included) kept having issues with skid plate bolts rattling loose. I caused my issues...I used antisieze and grade 3/5 washers. Went to Walker's hardware, replaced a couple of bolts and bought grade 8 fender washers and extra thick washers for a double stack plus blue loctite.
I also emailed UCF because someone mentioned the skid was supposed to come with slotted washers...UCF confirmed it doesn't and they recommend blue loctite and torque to 50 ft lbs.
-Mac
I also emailed UCF because someone mentioned the skid was supposed to come with slotted washers...UCF confirmed it doesn't and they recommend blue loctite and torque to 50 ft lbs.
-Mac
The frame bolts will still work themselves loose from the flexing and twisting of the frame. Mine have been doing the same for years no matter what I do.
I'm going to start marking mine with a paint pen.
I wonder if I can find grade 8 1/2-13s with holes for safety wire...hmm...
-Mac
P.S. Bingo! https://drilledheadbolts.com/t/12-13-5-pack
The important part to keep up with it and make sure the bolts are loose enough to knock a nutsert free if you land the weight of the Jeep on one.
No issues, everything went into place nicely. I had to buy longer bolts, the OEM bolts are good for the 1/8" shovel, but not for the 3/8" aluminum skid. M12 x 1.75mm (on 2003-2006). I had tweaked my fan shroud mounting for the MML (tilts the front up). Had to re-tweak it, since this skid tilts the front of the engine back down. Had to mess with the shifter not liking 2, 4, 6, R, but as I recall that all worked out once I had the skid and MML in place.
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