Ultimate camping and towing rig
- Thread starter toximus
- Start date
We got our start with renting truck campers in the Yukon. The first time it was a gasser and we got 10 mpg. It did ok but it was tiring to have the engine revving all the time to climb hills. The second time it was a diesel and it was so much better to drive, but….. it only got 11 mpg. I was very surprised there was so little difference. Now we own a 2017 F350 diesel and it gets 11 mpg with just the camper and about 9.5 mpg when towing the TJ. There you have it. Real world experience.
My 2015 GMC Sierra has a "lifetime warranty" from the dealer I bought it from. Fine print says all service and maintenance has to be completed by them. I have never taken it back for anything, that was 6.5 years ago.
That right there is the only reason I ever bought a diesel for towing. About 50,000 miles in and constant monitoring of actual towing mileage, I figured out real quick that the number one attribute of owning a diesel tow rig has to be the ability to lie about your mileage with a straight face. Fucking assholes the lot of them.
I also figured out part of the issue, the diesel fuel system clicks off the pump nozzle with 5 gallons to go before you can see fuel in the filler neck. Learned that by loaning my truck to a friend to go pick up a rig in CO. They filled when they got there and told me they got this awesome mileage. Did you fill it all the way up or stop when it first clicked off? If you didn't fill it all the way, your miles run is 5 gallons short on fuel used.
Our issue is we live in the bottom of a big bowl. Any place we tow to of any interest has some monstrous uphill grades and it doesn't matter which direction we go except towards the sunset but that's kind of wet in places.
I use the Fuelly app to track all mileage and service. Can’t trust the built in mileage gauge.
I use the tried and true Visual app.
OP
Anyone know the pros and cons of 16" vs 17.5" trailer tires? Especially in regards to snow and ice.
I can get either:
Unloaded, the trailer is 10k.
Jeep weighs 4800lbs (with gas and tools).
And pin weight will be 3100-3500lbs when loaded
The trailer is CDL exempt since it'll be registered in WI, qualifies as an RV, and is under 45ft. So GCVWR on paper isn't a concern. I can also get it derated.
I can get either:
- 2x 7k axles with 16" 14ply tires = 17k gvw
- 2x 8k axles with 17.5" tires = 20k gvw
Unloaded, the trailer is 10k.
Jeep weighs 4800lbs (with gas and tools).
And pin weight will be 3100-3500lbs when loaded
The trailer is CDL exempt since it'll be registered in WI, qualifies as an RV, and is under 45ft. So GCVWR on paper isn't a concern. I can also get it derated.
As you may have already figured out, typically the 17.5s will be for more of a commercial application. The 17.5s are going to be harder to come by in remote areas, you'll also have fewer options available industry wide. Not that, that's a huge issue with it being for a trailer. There isn't much, if any real selection in either size when it comes to snow and ice traction. One option would be siping, although I've never personally seen anyone have a trailer tire siped, it is possible. I would only have them sipe the center section and leave about an inch on each outer shoulder un-siped if you do.
OP
Thanks for the good info!
I've started looking for aluminum 17.5" rims, and you're right, they aren't as available toward consumers.
My plan is to carry 2 spares just in case, but Discount Tire is convenient and it doesn't look like they do 17.5s.
I like the idea of the bigger axles so that if one tire does blow I can run on just 1 more comfortably until I can get to a safe area.
I briefly looked into what the snowmobile guys do for their tires and it looks like winter tires just aren't a thing.
Two spares is a good idea. Have a buddy who blew a front tire that in turn took the valve stem out on the rear wheel.
OP
After loading my Jeep, that leaves another 2,200lbs for water, food, spare parts, clothes, and other assorted junk. The truck will be near it's rated capacity with the pin weight, so I can't put much extra junk in the truck bed or back seat.
Anyone have estimates of how much their gear weighs? Anyone over 2,200lbs?
Anyone have estimates of how much their gear weighs? Anyone over 2,200lbs?
As said above the 17.5 is constructed much like a commercial semi tire. It will have a flatter tread profile and be very stiff with a high pressure. It will not provide much if any suspension. Most of the trailers that run them do so our of necessity for the load carrying capacity. You will need to go to commercial truck centers for new tires and service. They will be expensive.
With the 16" you get some flex adding some suspension but sacrificing durability. You gain wider availability to source replacements and spare. Also much less expensive. I hate Goodyear as a company but they are the only manufacturer I know of making a USA built consumer trailer tire with their Endurance line. I run Carlisle Radial Trail HD. See if you can spec a good tire. Most trailer builders put shit tires on for OE.
With the 16" you get some flex adding some suspension but sacrificing durability. You gain wider availability to source replacements and spare. Also much less expensive. I hate Goodyear as a company but they are the only manufacturer I know of making a USA built consumer trailer tire with their Endurance line. I run Carlisle Radial Trail HD. See if you can spec a good tire. Most trailer builders put shit tires on for OE.
Unfortunately there is no market for trailer snow tires.
If you do go with the 16" you do have the option of running 10 - 12 ply light truck radials that do have some offerings in winter tread design. Just remember to only use them for winter travel. You'll see a LOT of ranchers that run nothing but take offs/used 10 ply 16s on their trailers. They just don't hold up to the side loading from scrubbing on tight turns.
OP
You guys have convinced me that I don't want anything to do with 17.5s if I can help it.
They are letting me supply as much or as little of the parts going on the trailer as I want (and giving me full credits for it). So I'll find out what tires they use and see if I should find them myself.
Considered triple axle? I have 3 x 5200 on my 36 footer and its not been an issues. I am told 7K axles share the tube and other parts with the 5200. Only the hub and brake is different.
My trailer came with a Westlake Tire. Its cheap import tire and I keep a close eye on them. Keeping inflation at max. First one to show signs of failure and its getting Carlisle like my other trailers.
OP
I have. My biggest concerns are:
1) More to maintain.
2) Worse turning. Especially since I'll be pulling with SRW.
I think my next step is to weigh and calculate what we'll realistically be putting inside.
OP
Thoughts on oil bath vs grease? Biggest argument against oil bath that I've found is that if the cap breaks the bearings blow up. Does that realistically ever happen? Everything else seems to be a major plus.
Also, how do you jack up a 16,000lb trailer to change tires? I assume my 2k rated floor jack won't do...? Lol.
Also, how do you jack up a 16,000lb trailer to change tires? I assume my 2k rated floor jack won't do...? Lol.
I have oil bath axles on my fifth wheel and i've never had an issue busting a cap, but with a trailer that big i've never tried to drag it into places that would provide potential to do it either.
As for changing the tires, i have one of these i've used in the past, it works fine for me, drive up on it with the good tire and it lifts the other
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PXFGT31/?tag=wranglerorg-20