Build Plans - Thoughts and Advice?

[Kevin302]

Hi all,

After what feels like endless research, I believe I’m ready to see what you all think of my build plans. I recently acquired a stock 2005 Jeep TJ Willy’s Edition with 96,000 miles. It has the 4.0L engine with a 6-speed manual. It will become my winter/bad weather daily driver as well as off roader for Rausch Creek, AAOA, and FRO. I’ll probably put 5,000 miles a year on it, mostly commuting to work on backroads and the occasional highway use. Hopefully get to the parks 5-10 times a year. I do not plan to do crazy rock crawling but want to be prepared in case I follow some friends down some tough trails. I will have to drive the Jeep back home, so I want it as reliable as possible. I should also mention my goal is to have this built within 60 days.

• Rubicon Express 4.5 inch Tri-Link Long Arm Suspension (open to suggestions on lift kit but don’t want to spend crazy money here)
• Alloy USA SYE Kit
• Rough Country Rear CV Driveshaft
• G2 Axle Gears Master Install Kit Front and Rear – 4.56 ratio
• Alloy USA Front Grande 30 Spline Chromoly Shafts (Revolution out of stock for front kit)
• ARB Air Locker for 30 spline Dana 30
• Revolution Gear Super35 Kit with ARB Locker
• Air compressor (any suggestions as to which one and where to mount it? Engine bay?)
• I will eventually get a new front bumper and winch.
• I have a rear bumper already with tire swing receiver for the 5th wheel. Don’t know what brand.

I plan to run 35” tires on the classic steel wheels. Not exactly sure on other sizing. I’m open to suggestions.

I’ve considered the 8.8 and Dana 44 swap, but I don’t think timing wise that will work for me and that probably opens a different can of worms I’m not qualified to deal with. If I had a Jeep specialty shop installing everything, maybe I’d be comfortable with that. I plan on having my go-to shop that works on my other cars do this build. I’m thinking I drive on this build for a few years and go bigger down the road.

I think I’ve hit the major points but am I missing anything small or complimentary to the others?

Other considerations:

• Truss kit for Dana 35? I’m seeing the Rock Krawler weld on rear cradle but I’m not sure if there’s anything else needed for that. Is a truss overkill or worth the extra insurance for a few hundred bucks?
• For the lift kit – should I go without shocks and get Bilsteins separately or get the shocks provided in the kit. Any major difference between twintube and monotube?
• Should I add or subtract anything from the above list?

Thanks for any help and guidance!

 

[LONGJP2]

You bought a jeep, not a Honda civic. Try wheeling it as is first.

 

[Kevin302]

You bought a jeep, not a Honda civic. Try wheeling it as is first.

It has tiny tires that are super dry rotted. Something needs to be done about that before I even drive it on the pavement.

I'll be following a gang of qualified drivers in built Jeeps and a duramax swapped Humvee. I wouldn't last stock. I have a little experience myself and am confident I'll be OK when I get out there.

 

[MutantNinjaTJ]

Keep your list handy, there's going to be some changes suggested, a lot of changes I think. I will chime in later, gotta go earn my keep right now.

 

[Kevin302]

Keep your list handy, there's going to be some changes suggested, a lot of changes I think. I will chime in later, gotta go earn my keep right now.

Great. That's what I came here for. Thanks

 

[tworley]

I suggest 4" currie coils (longest free length coils) with short arms (Currie/Savvy) that have Johnny Joints. You can match shocks with the coils. Just as the coil becomes unseated at full droop, you want your shock to have reached its full extended length. Same with stuff, once the axle is at full bump, you want your coils to be just before coil bind and your shocks to not be bottoming out (bumpstops play a key role here). I vote for a JB Conversions super short sye. This will give you the longest possible driveshaft which alleviates extreme angles and can wreak havoc on ujoints. The JB coversions is 2" shorter than a standard SYE. However, it will require you to install a speedo healer (blue monkey). As for a driveshaft--I had a local builder make mine, most on here will suggest ordering thru Tom Wood of Tom Wood's Driveshafts. Stick with 1310 ujoints as those will give you the most operating angle (and if you stick with a super short sye youll have no worry at all). G2 Gears are fine, I ran them with no issue and they set up nice. Alloys are fine for front shafts, though stick with 27 spline and 27 spline carrier. Easier to replace a shaft if you do in fact break one on the trail. RG&A super35 is great. As far as I know there are no documented failures and they will handle 35s perfectly. I mounted my air compressor on an empty tray on the drivers side engine bay. Later models will have a ABS unit here I believe. If you only want it for lockers, get ARBs smallest one. As for bumpers and a winch, get something small (like a stubby), this will give you great departure angles. Stick with Synthetic winch line which will save one weight and get a quality winch (Warn, Engo, Superwinch, etc). Also, rethink steel wheels. They are heavy and bend easily. Get a 15x8 aluminum rim with 3.75 to 4" of backspacing. No need to truss the 35 or 30. Do not go with Bilstien shocks. They are a harsh riding shock and better suited for a much heavier vehicle (like a 3/4 ton truck). Ranchos are nice and soft and better suited for a TJ. Again, cycle your suspension and determine your shock length, dont buy shocks based on "X" amount of lift. Finally, a tummy tuck is one of the better mods out there for wheeling as it gets rid of the big stock transfercase that hangs 4" below your frame. A tummy tuck replaces that skid with another one (suggest aluminum) and is almost level with the frame.

 

[Kevin302]

I suggest 4" currie coils (longest free length coils) with short arms (Currie/Savvy) that have Johnny Joints. You can match shocks with the coils. Just as the coil becomes unseated at full droop, you want your shock to have reached its full extended length. Same with stuff, once the axle is at full bump, you want your coils to be just before coil bind and your shocks to not be bottoming out (bumpstops play a key role here). I vote for a JB Conversions super short sye. This will give you the longest possible driveshaft which alleviates extreme angles and can wreak havoc on ujoints. The JB coversions is 2" shorter than a standard SYE. However, it will require you to install a speedo healer (blue monkey). As for a driveshaft--I had a local builder make mine, most on here will suggest ordering thru Tom Wood of Tom Wood's Driveshafts. Stick with 1310 ujoints as those will give you the most operating angle (and if you stick with a super short sye youll have no worry at all). G2 Gears are fine, I ran them with no issue and they set up nice. Alloys are fine for front shafts, though stick with 27 spline and 27 spline carrier. Easier to replace a shaft if you do in fact break one on the trail. RG&A super35 is great. As far as I know there are no documented failures and they will handle 35s perfectly. I mounted my air compressor on an empty tray on the drivers side engine bay. Later models will have a ABS unit here I believe. If you only want it for lockers, get ARBs smallest one. As for bumpers and a winch, get something small (like a stubby), this will give you great departure angles. Stick with Synthetic winch line which will save one weight and get a quality winch (Warn, Engo, Superwinch, etc). Also, rethink steel wheels. They are heavy and bend easily. Get a 15x8 aluminum rim with 3.75 to 4" of backspacing. No need to truss the 35 or 30. Do not go with Bilstien shocks. They are a harsh riding shock and better suited for a much heavier vehicle (like a 3/4 ton truck). Ranchos are nice and soft and better suited for a TJ. Again, cycle your suspension and determine your shock length, dont buy shocks based on "X" amount of lift. Finally, a tummy tuck is one of the better mods out there for wheeling as it gets rid of the big stock transfercase that hangs 4" below your frame. A tummy tuck replaces that skid with another one (suggest aluminum) and is almost level with the frame.

Great feedback. Much appreciated!

I need to do some research on the tummy tuck and what parts go into that. I've seen it mentioned all over but still don't know too much about it.

I had a feeling the 27 spline fronts would suffice. My buddy wheels pretty hard and he has stock front shafts with no breaks, yet.

Thank you

 

[jjvw]

After skimming through...

No to the long arm or any long arm kit.

No to Bilsteins.

No 8.8

No trusses.

What size tire and how was 4.56 determined to be the desirable ratio?

 

[Kevin302]

After skimming through...

No to the long arm or any long arm kit.

No to Bilsteins.

No 8.8

No trusses.

What size tire and how was 4.56 determined to be the desirable ratio?

Got it. 35 inch tires are what I'd prefer. Looks, ground clearance, and my buddy who has 33's regrets not going 35's. He's the madman on trails though. As for the gear ratio, I forget which forum I read it on, but a regular poster said 4.56's with the 6-speed should be plenty. I do see a lot of people going 4.88's. I don't plan on doing too much highway driving.

Why no long arm kit? I originally was set on a short arm, but sounds like ride quality with long arm is drastically better.

Thanks

 

[jjvw]

You are reading the wrong stuff about long arms. Unless there is discussion about instant centers and antisquat, the information is misguided and not helpful.

If the "longer arm" kit doesn't require welding, it is the wrong kit to be considering.

Unless you are experiencing a certain set of specific problems while off road, there is no reason not to keep the short arms.

 

[Kevin302]

You are reading the wrong stuff about long arms. Unless there is discussion about instant centers and antisquat, the information is misguided and not helpful.

If the "longer arm" kit doesn't require welding, it is the wrong kit to be considering.

Unless you are experiencing a certain set of specific problems while off road, there is no reason not to keep the short arms.

I'll look into this more. If short arm is the way to go and doesn't sacrifice ride quality on the road, then great, I'll save some money.

 

[tworley]

I'll look into this more. If short arm is the way to go and doesn't sacrifice ride quality on the road, then great, I'll save some money.

Great discussion here:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/long-arm-lifts-vs-short-arm-lifts.13319/

 

[Kevin302]

Great discussion here:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/long-arm-lifts-vs-short-arm-lifts.13319/

LOL I'm two pages in and I think I found what I need...

 

[Kevin302]

Keep your list handy, there's going to be some changes suggested, a lot of changes I think. I will chime in later, gotta go earn my keep right now.

Hey there...

So I updated my list. Swapped out the lift kit for the Currie Johnny Joint 4 inch with anti-rock bars. It says I need a 1 inch MML and BL for efficient use of 35" tires so I added a mountain offroad "bombproof" mml and tereflex aluminum body lift. Think I should go with a different material body lift or is aluminum fine? I read a sticky post somewhere that suggested aluminum.

I added Rancho RS9000XL shocks with steering stabilizer bar, changed the driveshaft to Tom Wood's extended rear CV and coupled that with a JB Conversions super short SYE with 1310 cv yoke.

Everything else the same. Still might decide to go with 27 spline front shafts.

Thoughts on the updated list?

Thanks in advance.

 

[bobthetj03]

Aluminum BL blocks are fine.
You could save some more coin by going with Rancho's RS5000X shocks. They have a good tune for our TJ's.
What are you doing for track bars?

 

[Kevin302]

Aluminum BL blocks are fine.
You could save some more coin by going with Rancho's RS5000X shocks. They have a good tune for our TJ's.
What are you doing for track bars?

Haven't looked at any specific track bars yet. I'm assuming I should replace the stock one with something beefier while I'm in there doing all this work?

 

[bobthetj03]

Haven't looked at any specific track bars yet. I'm assuming I should replace the stock one with something beefier while I'm in there doing all this work?

Adjustables would be nice so you can re-center the axles after the lift.