!!$$$!!! Yeah, I wasn't thinking I needed hydro assist. I just need the steering gear and I heard the PSC box has a bit more power, with outputs for hydro if I decide to get crazy.
A Perennial Work In Progress
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
OP
I bought mine back in the fall for $1550, on sale. I didn't need the Cylinder either, but when I added up the cost of the pump and box, it made more sense to buy the kit and save the cylinder for later.
Here is a link to just the box. https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...treme-series-steering-gear-w-ram-assist-ports
I purchased the box/anti splash from Northridge since at the time they were offering 20% off. The rest of the bits I ended up buying from @mrblaine at BMB and PSC directly.
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...rie-Steering-STEERING-COOLER-BRACKETS-RAM.htm
I purchased the box/anti splash from Northridge since at the time they were offering 20% off. The rest of the bits I ended up buying from @mrblaine at BMB and PSC directly.
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...rie-Steering-STEERING-COOLER-BRACKETS-RAM.htm
OP
I had to order two Currie Tie Rod ends, so I got them to throw in some new Antirock bling hardware and stickers. Also changed the oil, which is always easy, thanks to the Fomoto drain valve.
OP
Although my Jeep has spent it's entire life stored in the garage, I finally got around to drilling drain holes in the frame. This will certainly help when cleaning out the frame after wheeling in the sloppy stuff we have around here.
After drilling the hole with a 7/8" step drill, I discovered that the Dorman 65293 differential fill plug is a perfect fit. Kind of silly maybe, but this will let me plug the hole, except when draining it is necessary.
Final product
After drilling the hole with a 7/8" step drill, I discovered that the Dorman 65293 differential fill plug is a perfect fit. Kind of silly maybe, but this will let me plug the hole, except when draining it is necessary.
Final product
7/8" is a mighty big hole. I thought popular opinion was holes no bigger than 5/8" due to potential structural compromise for anything bigger?
OP
The largest existing factory holes are 1 3/8", so I don't see where this would be a problem.
I get that. But my concern would be, whether warranted or not, that large of a hole directly behind the control arm, which seems to be a stress point for the frame. This is all predicated on Jeep drilling holes in specific places rather than random holes. If Jeep's hole placement is random, disregard my concerns.
Edit: too late now with the hole already drilled. I was just curious though as I haven't come across anyone that drilled drain holes that large.
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OP
This is one I feel really stupid about. Over the last 3 weeks I've been chasing a loud popping noise when the steering wheel is turned side to side. I've done the usual, i.e. checking for loose bolts, tie rods ends, ball joints etc., but couldn't find anything wrong. Today, after a recent wheeling trip, I was hitting all the grease fittings. When I was doing the upper ball joints, I noticed the following:
Passenger Side
Driver Side
If you look at the passenger side picture, you can see that the coil spring is in contact with the spring/shock tower. I couldn't figure out how the spring had moved so far forward, after I had spent a significant amount of time centering them a couple years ago.
Then I realized that last year I had taken the Jeep to have a four wheel alignment done at a reputable shop. The only conclusion I can come to is that when the technician used the double adjustable control arms to move the axle (I paid extra for the time to do this), he didn't notice this. Since I haven't really been driving the Jeep, I hadn't noticed it either.
The double adjustable arms make it relatively easy to fix this. In the grand scheme of things, it isn't a big deal. However, it is frustrating that I paid someone to do this to my Jeep and didn't notice it until now.
Passenger Side
Driver Side
If you look at the passenger side picture, you can see that the coil spring is in contact with the spring/shock tower. I couldn't figure out how the spring had moved so far forward, after I had spent a significant amount of time centering them a couple years ago.
Then I realized that last year I had taken the Jeep to have a four wheel alignment done at a reputable shop. The only conclusion I can come to is that when the technician used the double adjustable control arms to move the axle (I paid extra for the time to do this), he didn't notice this. Since I haven't really been driving the Jeep, I hadn't noticed it either.
The double adjustable arms make it relatively easy to fix this. In the grand scheme of things, it isn't a big deal. However, it is frustrating that I paid someone to do this to my Jeep and didn't notice it until now.
OP
- Cleaned the Jeep after a recent trip to Rausch
- Ground all the rock damage on the bottom side with a flap disk and re-painted
- Detailed the engine compartment
- Cleaned and re-installed my spare belt and pulleys
- Ground all the rock damage on the bottom side with a flap disk and re-painted
- Detailed the engine compartment
- Cleaned and re-installed my spare belt and pulleys
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OP
Compared to what others are doing this is simple stuff. However, I'm at a point where little things are annoying me so, I did the following:
Removed the mirror relocation brackets that I've been running for 7+ years. The intended purpose of them is to allow you to swap doors, or run door-less, without having to worry about the mirrors. The actual purpose has been to annoy me every time I drive the Jeep.
There's no problem with the driver side. The passenger side is a different story. Due to the design, the passenger side mirror is pushed so far forward, that it's useless while driving. I remedied this by installing small convex mirrors, but that's just a band-aide. Since I had an extra set of late model mirrors, I put them on my half doors, so there are now mirrors on both sets of doors. If I run door-less, I'll just use an old set of mirrors that go through the upper door mount.
Removed the mirror relocation brackets that I've been running for 7+ years. The intended purpose of them is to allow you to swap doors, or run door-less, without having to worry about the mirrors. The actual purpose has been to annoy me every time I drive the Jeep.
There's no problem with the driver side. The passenger side is a different story. Due to the design, the passenger side mirror is pushed so far forward, that it's useless while driving. I remedied this by installing small convex mirrors, but that's just a band-aide. Since I had an extra set of late model mirrors, I put them on my half doors, so there are now mirrors on both sets of doors. If I run door-less, I'll just use an old set of mirrors that go through the upper door mount.
OP
I also cleaned up my wiring on the locker pumps and labeled everything for easy identification.
And ordered and received a new set of Warn lockout hubs. Although I always carry spare hubs, a friend blew out one on his Bronco when we last wheeled. I gave him mine for the trail repair and then he ordered a new set for me.
Lastly, for now, I picked up a new Currie CE-0701DLR drag link end. My Currie steering is now seven+ years old and still in good order. However, given the lead time to get these, I don't like being without a spare set on the trail.
And ordered and received a new set of Warn lockout hubs. Although I always carry spare hubs, a friend blew out one on his Bronco when we last wheeled. I gave him mine for the trail repair and then he ordered a new set for me.
Lastly, for now, I picked up a new Currie CE-0701DLR drag link end. My Currie steering is now seven+ years old and still in good order. However, given the lead time to get these, I don't like being without a spare set on the trail.
I've experimented with a couple different window pillar mount mirrors and never found one to my liking either.
I have 3 sets of doors, and I have factory mirrors on all of them. They just work better.
OP
I went through the same thing. Two sets of mounts and now mirrors on both sets of doors.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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What valve do you use? Do you keep the tube on and just stashed inside the skid? I need to add one of these so it doesn't make such a mess with the engine skid there.
OP
I've been using the short Fumoto valve for years now. I keep a small length of hose stored in a zip lock bag and tuck that away in he glove box after each use. Every oil change has been 100% mess free!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9G8C5P/?tag=wranglerorg-20
They also make a couple other variations, depending on your need.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/?target=model_product&modelId=672787
OP
Because my wheeling needs/desires continue to evolve, I've started plans for the LJ's next evolutionary leap. A focus this time will be on the following two areas:
- continue reducing overall sprung weight
- begin reducing overall body width
Although I've tried to be weight conscious lately, some of my early build decisions clearly took me in the wrong direction. Beyond weight, I didn't focus at all on body width, which is becoming a problem. With those objectives in mind, I'm planning to replace several steel MC parts. Specifically, I'll be pulling the full MC steel corner armor, MC steel rocker guards, and steel MC rear 6" fenders. In their place I'm planning to install:
- Savvy LJ Corner Armor
- Savvy Tailgate & Valance Armor
- Savvy LJ Tub Rub Rails
- Savvy LJ Rockers w/Step Sliders
- Genright 1/2 Door Armor
My estimates are that these changes will reduce sprung weight by 100 lbs (+ or -) and rear tub width by 12" (Assuming I don't run rear fender flares).
For the front, I'm undecided about which direction I want to go. All I do know is that it's probable that 37" tires will be in the future, so I don't want to make mistakes I've done in the past, where I didn't plan for the tire size I wanted. I've read through the Fender Smackdown thread @toximus started, but still have a lot of reading to do before committing to any front fender choices. At least with the things outlined above, I shouldn't do any harm as I continue running 35" tires for the foreseeable future.
- continue reducing overall sprung weight
- begin reducing overall body width
Although I've tried to be weight conscious lately, some of my early build decisions clearly took me in the wrong direction. Beyond weight, I didn't focus at all on body width, which is becoming a problem. With those objectives in mind, I'm planning to replace several steel MC parts. Specifically, I'll be pulling the full MC steel corner armor, MC steel rocker guards, and steel MC rear 6" fenders. In their place I'm planning to install:
- Savvy LJ Corner Armor
- Savvy Tailgate & Valance Armor
- Savvy LJ Tub Rub Rails
- Savvy LJ Rockers w/Step Sliders
- Genright 1/2 Door Armor
My estimates are that these changes will reduce sprung weight by 100 lbs (+ or -) and rear tub width by 12" (Assuming I don't run rear fender flares).
For the front, I'm undecided about which direction I want to go. All I do know is that it's probable that 37" tires will be in the future, so I don't want to make mistakes I've done in the past, where I didn't plan for the tire size I wanted. I've read through the Fender Smackdown thread @toximus started, but still have a lot of reading to do before committing to any front fender choices. At least with the things outlined above, I shouldn't do any harm as I continue running 35" tires for the foreseeable future.
I’m curious as to what it takes to switch from MC rockers to Savvy.
I’m at the point where there’s not much more build left in my LJ. Need to install the PSC system and refinish some half doors. I could make significant changes and go more savvy but I’ve never found a place my Jeep couldn’t go so I don’t see the benefit.
I’m leaning towards buying another Jeep to build before I’d make significant changes to the one that has gone everywhere I’ve wanted/needed to go.
OP
Other than notching the Savvy rockers to fit the existing front MC fenders, I don't think it would take much work. The only gotcha I could see might be a potential issue with the existing MC rocker nutsert holes. Knowing my luck these would be off enough that I might have issues with placement of the Savvy ones, i.e. some might partially overlap. This could be a minor or major annoyance, depending on how many did so.
Like you, there's not much more build left for me either. However, if I new then what I know now, it would have been built very different, so I'm considering undoing stuff. I did think about buying another LJ, but that wouldn't go over well with the family CEO!
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