A Perennial Work In Progress

Two days worth of work to gain 1/16" clearance between the TRE thimble and bumper hoop. It's all done now, with the exception of spooling the line under load.

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While I was finishing the bumper modifications, I cleaned up the front end and discovered another small issue. Last year I spent a weekend removing the springs and cycling the suspension, and I had no interference issues. Now, I noticed a small spot on the differential where the track bar is hitting it at full compression. Not much, but it's there. :(

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While I was finishing the bumper modifications, I cleaned up the front end and discovered another small issue. Last year I spent a weekend removing the springs and cycling the suspension, and I had no interference issues. Now, I noticed a small spot on the differential where the track bar is hitting it at full compression. Not much, but it's there. :(

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Have you adjusted pinion angle since then maybe?
 
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Have you adjusted pinion angle since then maybe?
No adjustments have been made there. However, I did replace the heim joint on the MC track bar. I wouldn't have expected that to cause the contact, given everything else stayed constant. Stranger things have happened tough!
 
At this point I'm trying to fix little things that annoy me. One of the dome light LED bulbs I put in is flickering for the second time. Instead of replacing the bulb again, I've been looking at upgrade options. Doing a little digging, I found that these will fit on the late model pods.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075447DNV/?tag=wranglerorg-20

They provide 240 lumens of light. FWIW the stock incandescent bulbs are 85, while the pathetic LED bulbs are 50 - 60 lumens. The replacement housings should be a perfect fit, given the overall measurements below. They'll get here in a few days, so we'll see!

Stock Pod = 3.6" overall and 2.62" hole opening
Replacement lights = 3.5" overall and requires a 2.5" to 2.75" hole opening

I bought the 4 pack, at $32.90, which means I'll have spares. The cost each works out to be $8.23.

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At this point I'm trying to fix little things that annoy me. One of the dome light LED bulbs I put in is flickering for the second time. Instead of replacing the bulb again, I've been looking at upgrade options. Doing a little digging, I found that these will fit on the late model pods.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075447DNV/?tag=wranglerorg-20

They provide 240 lumens of light. FWIW the stock incandescent bulbs are 85, while the pathetic LED bulbs are 50 - 60 lumens. The replacement housings should be a perfect fit, given the overall measurements below. They'll get here in a few days, so we'll see!

Stock Pod = 3.6" overall and 2.62" hole opening
Replacement lights = 3.5" overall and requires a 2.5" to 2.75" hole opening

I bought the 4 pack, at $32.90, which means I'll have spares. The cost each works out to be $8.23.

View attachment 212618
That is a GREAT idea.
 
After studying the problem way to long, I've decided to buy a new Millermatic 211 Mig welder, along with a 150 spool gun. I looked at lots of options, including HF, Eastwood, Lincoln, and Miller. Although the Multi-process units were initially interesting, I already have a Miller Maxstar stick welder and don't see myself doing TIG anytime soon.

Also, I dropped by a buddies body shop and he had three 211 machines that are used for production work. One of the machines was set up with a 150 spool gun. After seeing it work, that, along with the Auto-set feature, sealed the deal for me.

Now I just need to do a little more price shopping and pull the trigger. I'll also be picking up a plasma cutter, but will likely cheap out here. We'll see though!
 
The lights came in and I had a chance to fit them. I'm not overly thrilled with the brushed nickel look, but the light output is much better than the stock incandescent bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075447DNV/?tag=wranglerorg-20

jA0QVdT.jpg


They were a little smaller than I'd like, with parts of the existing drilled holes showing in the overhead pod, when the lights were installed. To fix this issue I used some heavy black material I had and cut out two circles, which added about 1/4" to the outside of the new lights.
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Once I had them cut out, I installed both in the pod housing to test the fit. I also attached the lights to a 12v power supply and let them burn for 15 minutes. There was no noticeable heat, and all was good!

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Overall, I'm happy with the upgrade, which:
- reduced electrical load
- improved light output
- significantly reduced light heat and
- was a very easy upgrade

Ideally, the lights would be a little bigger, but this wasn't a big issue. Time will tell if they last!
 
The lights came in and I had a chance to fit them. I'm not overly thrilled with the brushed nickel look, but the light output is much better than the stock incandescent bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075447DNV/?tag=wranglerorg-20

View attachment 213946

They were a little smaller than I'd like, with parts of the existing drilled holes showing in the overhead pod, when the lights were installed. To fix this issue I used some heavy black material I had and cut out two circles, which added about 1/4" to the outside of the new lights.
View attachment 213947
View attachment 213948

Once I had them cut out, I installed both in the pod housing to test the fit. I also attached the lights to a 12v power supply and let them burn for 15 minutes. There was no noticeable heat, and all was good!

View attachment 213949
View attachment 213950

Overall, I'm happy with the upgrade, which:
- reduced electrical load
- improved light output
- significantly reduced light heat and
- was a very easy upgrade

Ideally, the lights would be a little bigger, but this wasn't a big issue. Time will tell if they last!
Would they be difficult to paint if you were so inclined?
 
I've been using a 110V 15 amp circuit in the garage for my 120v Miller Maxstar welder. This sucks for two reasons. First, I keep tripping the breaker, with continuous use. Second, I have to go all the way to the basement to reset it.

To address this problem, I installed a 100 amp sub panel in the garage and added a 50 amp 240v circuit for welders, plasma cutters, etc. In the process I moved all the exterior circuits to the box and added a dedicated 120v 20 amp circuit for the small welder. The addition of the panel will also allow me to install a small separate HVAC unit for the garage.

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I finally got around to painting and installing the new UCF ultra clearance bumper. It can't be used with the factory swaybar and requires the use of Currie Antirock, or something similar. The reason I purchased it, and compromised on weight (It's steel vs my previous UCF aluminum), is the following:

1. Compact and lightweight design (for steel)
2. Welded hoop vs bolt on
3. Welded 3/4" integrated D rings mounts
4. Slight improvement on approach angle

In the process, I un-wound the winch rope and washed it. I also cleaned and waxed my now 10 year old Superwinch.

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Did they stop making this bumper with the hoop? I can’t find it on their website.
 
Did they stop making this bumper with the hoop? I can’t find it on their website.
I know that they were starting to cut back on some of the TJ stuff, but it's odd that just the hoop isn't available. Looking at the other bumper options, the hoop is missing from them all. Maybe a website issue? I'd try giving them a call and see what they say!
 
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Yeah I plan on calling them Monday morning. How do you like that bumper
Trying to find the right balance between function and looks, I've been through three different bumpers. This one is my favorite. It can't be used with a stock swaybar, but fits perfectly with either a Swayloc or Antirock. The steel version is a little heavier than I'd like, 43 lbs, but is acceptable, given the functionality and strength.
 
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The LJ got new tie down straps, an oil change, and checkup for an upcoming wheeling trip.

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Nice. I always carry an extra set of tie down straps on the trailer. The paranoid part of me always expects some asshole to cut my straps while parked at the hotel overnight…
 
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