take a chainsaw to those wheels and the rest is just pruning.Essentially the forest is on fire and you're pointing out which trees need to be trimmed to look a bit more foresty.
take a chainsaw to those wheels and the rest is just pruning.Essentially the forest is on fire and you're pointing out which trees need to be trimmed to look a bit more foresty.
Where would you rank this in your list of all-time messes that you've seen?Now that you've contemplated a bit, what logic was used to build something with that much money thrown at it and get every single aspect of it that matters wrong?
Alright, lets prune.take a chainsaw to those wheels and the rest is just pruning.
No way to know.@mrblaine you probably know more about the hydro-assist setup than anyone as the kit installed was probably yours and/or a copy-cat approach. With the collar attached to the drag link adjuster, would the ram's full extension prohibit a full steering throw to the left?
The only thing better than locked steering is parking in salt water.
gimme a minute, i gotta change my shirt and grab my gloves.Alright, lets prune.
the 15K worth of axles is the only reason it might be worth 25k, much of the rest is a headache waiting to be discovered.Alright, lets prune.
Tires go- 3000 mistake.
Rims go- 1500 mistake.
Now you have a 9000 front axle for 35's with a matching rear for another 6000.
What part of that makes any sense? You buy it for 50, then you get to fix it?
The bolt is 3/4". The sleeves that set the height of each steering bit are minimum 1" .120 wall tube. When they are cut the correct length and the 3/4" bolt is torqued, the amount of force it would take to deflect them is astounding. I've built 20-30 that way without ever a single failure or issue.I've messed with about zero non-factory TJ axles...but what the hell is going on with the knuckles and that 8" long bolt that goes through them and the TRE joints? At least the joints are up next to the knuckle, but that drag link right in the middle...shear>bending.
good enough for me.The bolt is 3/4". The sleeves that set the height of each steering bit are minimum 1" .120 wall tube. When they are cut the correct length and the 3/4" bolt is torqued, the amount of force it would take to deflect them is astounding. I've built 20-30 that way without ever a single failure or issue.
If I torque that bolt to a little over 300 ft lbs, it generates over 30,000 lbs. of clamping force. For the bolt to deflect, it has to see enough lateral force to tip the sleeves over sideways with that much clamping force preventing it. It it way overkill for any steering forces you might encounter including pretty hard hits on rocks at speed with a tire.good enough for me.
If I torque that bolt to a little over 300 ft lbs, it generates over 30,000 lbs. of clamping force. For the bolt to deflect, it has to see enough lateral force to tip the sleeves over sideways with that much clamping force preventing it. It it way overkill for any steering forces you might encounter including pretty hard hits on rocks at speed with a tire.
The sleeves having to tip over really adds a lot of strength to the design. In order for it to move, one side of the sleeve has to compress and the other side has to have a gap open up. The bolt stretch with that much force really makes that very hard to do. Plus, you can put the rod ends anywhere on the bolt vertically and get stuff where you need it to be.yeah. Now that I think about it, it's pretty easy to look at it and assume the sleeves just locate the rod ends without thinking about the immense amount of shear stress it would take sandwiching the vertical axis of the sleeve to allow any movement. It's actually pretty elegant.
Good Thread- would be educational to have a Blaines’ What is wrong here thread more often.