How to identify axles on a Jeep Wrangler TJ (and what the difference is with each axle)

the covers look like Dana 44's.

something looks very odd with the TB and all the scarring on the front diff top. that joint looks stressed the way it's hodge podged together. looks like a home brew extension.
 
someguysjeep said:
the covers look like Dana 44's.

something looks very odd with the TB and all the scarring on the front diff top. that joint looks stressed the way it's hodge podged together. looks like a home brew extension.
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How else can i i.d them? The track bar is rubbing. deeper I dig the more I find, this is my first wrangler
 
Mlstubbs89 said:
How else can i i.d them? The track bar is rubbing. deeper I dig the more I find, this is my first wrangler
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The rest of the mounts look stock and it isn't a Dana 30.

That football helmet cage is a commonly available skid that bolts on with the diff cover. You also have some kind of weird bracket attached to the top of the housing.
 
i'm not familiar with all the axles but that front doesn't look like a stock TJ axle to me.....IDK why but that center casting looks big and wide with a good bit of extra material on the driver side tube socket.

that mess bangin into the TB almost looks like 1 of those flanges that's supposed to bolt into a truss.

it looks like it has no up travel, i don't see any witness on the bottom of the TB so it must be the back side that's scraping down across when the suspension moves.
the drag end looks homemade and that mess on the TB could be eliminated.............can we see pics of the passenger side steering link connections too. try to reach in behind the driver tire look down the length of the TB and see if you can get a shot of the bars relationship to the top of the diff in the view.

steering is OTK on the driver side and i'm not seeing any angle to UTK looks like a lot is going on there.
 
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someguysjeep said:
i'm not familiar with all the axles but that front doesn't look like a stock TJ axle to me.....IDK why but that center casting looks big and wide with a good bit of extra material on the driver side tube socket.

that mess bangin into the TB almost looks like 1 of those flanges that's supposed to bolt into a truss.

it looks like it has no up travel, i don't see any witness on the bottom of the TB so it must be the back side that's scraping down across when the suspension moves.
the drag end looks homemade and that mess on the TB could be eliminated.............can we see pics of the passenger side steering link connections too. try to reach in behind the driver tire look down the length of the TB and see if you can get a shot of the bars relationship to the top of the diff in the view.

steering is OTK on the driver side and i'm not seeing any angle to UTK looks like a lot is going on there.
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Tire is off for a unrelated issue had to order a new rim. I've got new tie rods similar to whats on it just haven't put them on yet.

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i see a truss, an aftermarket passenger side upper link mount.
steering links look odd to me, the drag is rolled forward and down the TR end almost appears leaned the opposite way. axle end TB bracket looks altered as do the sway link arms. the way the TB upper end is twisted it's either loose or needs adjusted. twisted like that doesn't give it much room to move properly.

does the cover appear RTV'd to that chunk or is the chunk part of the cover now?
stock upper suggest it can't push to far forward, but the unknown lower links could have rolled the top out into the way some or just poor construction of all the extra BS. are the lower links adjustable?

i'd try and pull that cover see what comes off with it and /or what i can get off after it's out of the way.
 
someguysjeep said:
i see a truss, an aftermarket passenger side upper link mount.
steering links look odd to me, the drag is rolled forward and down the TR end almost appears leaned the opposite way. axle end TB bracket looks altered as do the sway link arms. the way the TB upper end is twisted it's either loose or needs adjusted. twisted like that doesn't give it much room to move properly.

does the cover appear RTV'd to that chunk or is the chunk part of the cover now?
stock upper suggest it can't push to far forward, but the unknown lower links could have rolled the top out into the way some or just poor construction of all the extra BS. are the lower links adjustable?

i'd try and pull that cover see what comes off with it and /or what i can get off after it's out of the way.
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It looks rtvd to the cover ill pull it off when I get it in the barn . Ill also replace the TR and drag link. What do u mean by lower links? I'm new to most of this
 
someguysjeep said:
oh then this is a brainiac idea ..... adjustable from the upper end with a twist of the coupling.........not interested..... i already have to trust 1 stem. not sure i'm fond of the jam nut configuration either..
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Can u break that down barney style? Hard to decode this one
Only had it a couple months, everything you see is the previous owner.
 
Mlstubbs89 said:
Can u break that down barney style? Hard to decode this one
Only had it a couple months, everything you see is the previous owner.
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the end configuration seems a tad more complicated than it has to be for not much benefit.
Mlstubbs89 said:
What do u mean by lower links?
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the links that connect to the bottom of the axle tubes, the red things, are they solid or do they have an adjustment point?

Mlstubbs89 said:
Ill also replace the TR and drag link.
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the Currie bar might help for it's offset forward at the frame end, but it's not cheap........there is 1 for sale currently on this site.

IDK if the rolled drag is an issue the drag also looks fat but i'm not seeing any witness to contact with the tie rod.
that set up is a T link (meaning both knuckles are tied together and the drag intersects that bar) and TJ's usually run Y links (meaning the drag goes from pitman to knuckle and the tie rod intersects it from the other knuckle).

i'd start with attempting to see if the diff is rolled to far because of the length of the lower links or if all that junk needs trimmed back. you need a digital angle finder to learn how the diff is sitting vs what you might have for a caster angle. they are like 20-30$ and it'll pay for itself quick if you own a jeep.
 
someguysjeep said:
the end configuration seems a tad more complicated than it has to be for not much benefit.


the links that connect to the bottom of the axle tubes, the red things, are they solid or do they have an adjustment point?



the Currie bar might help for it's offset forward at the frame end, but it's not cheap........there is 1 for sale currently on this site.

IDK if the rolled drag is an issue the drag also looks fat but i'm not seeing any witness to contact with the tie rod.
that set up is a T link (meaning both knuckles are tied together and the drag intersects that bar) and TJ's usually run Y links (meaning the drag goes from pitman to knuckle and the tie rod intersects it from the other knuckle).

i'd start with attempting to see if the diff is rolled to far because of the length of the lower links or if all that junk needs trimmed back. you need a digital angle finder to learn how the diff is sitting vs what you might have for a caster angle. they are like 20-30$ and it'll pay for itself quick if you own a jeep.
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Oh I've been calling them control arms. I was looking at a 2.5" RC lift with adjustable links for around a grand. Hard to save money in this economy.

I just bought another T setup rugged ridge HD. Did a little research on both styles results were 50/50

Ordered the digital angle finder
 
Mlstubbs89 said:
Oh I've been calling them control arms. I was looking at a 2.5" RC lift with adjustable links for around a grand. Hard to save money in this economy.

I just bought another T setup rugged ridge HD. Did a little research on both styles results were 50/50

Ordered the digital angle finder
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someguysjeep said:
same thing.


good, once you figure if the diff is rolled into the way or the junk is in the way you can take action to remedy that. then let the jeep point out it's next dislike and proceed from there.
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I appreciate all the help! Wish I found this forum sooner
 
Mlstubbs89 said:
I appreciate all the help! Wish I found this forum sooner
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everybody here is helpful, pretty much. just don't go spendin a bunch of $ replacing things that may not pose an issue just yet. maybe instead of 3-4 mid tier items you can do better with 1-2 top tier pieces that allow a more focused result.
 
someguysjeep said:
everybody here is helpful, pretty much. just don't go spendin a bunch of $ replacing things that may not pose an issue just yet. maybe instead of 3-4 mid tier items you can do better with 1-2 top tier pieces that allow a more focused result.
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I'll keep that in mind. The challenge is getting the right size parts. Even the lug pattern isn't stock there a 5×5.5
 
Mlstubbs89 said:
I'll keep that in mind. The challenge is getting the right size parts. Even the lug pattern isn't stock there a 5×5.5
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IDK that those hubs were ever original equipment on that axle. i think i see an MM on it which might mean Mile Marker.
 
Recheck each number/letter of your VIN to insure it was entered correctly! Only one figure entered incorrectly can produce negative results. I entered my VIN for my ‘03 Sport, and worked perfect!
Of course, like many, I’ve changed a bunch since original build! 😵‍💫

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When it says "No record found" you where using lower case when inputting your vin. Use upper case and the build sheet will download.
 
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