Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

Well, I figured it out at least... 😐

I pulled the seal to check if there were any nicks, cuts, obtrusions, sublations, contusions, profusions, or any other usions. There were none. Clean as a whistle.

But pulling the yoke in and out a few times, and paying close attention to the fit, the seal did not seem tight enough. Since I still had the old seal - which was perfectly intact as I did no damage to it when removed - I measured it and sure enough:

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The outside diameter of the new seal was to spec, but the inside diameter was 100 thou larger, and in fact 50 thou larger than the yoke seal surface.

Yaah, dats a gonna leaka....

It was close enough that I did not notice it when installed. In fact, even looking at it now on the bench, I have to look very, very, very closely to see the problem. It looked fine when I test fit the seal prior to install.

So ECGS sent me the wrong seal. Knowing I'd need to replace it one way or another I'd already ordered another seal from Amazon, but it won't be here until late Monday. Since the old seal is still in good shape, rather than wait I reinstalled it. Works perfectly.

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I'll get on the horn with ECGS on Monday and have them replace the incorrect seal. Since it's very easy to replace this seal - mainly because of going the crush sleeve eliminator route - I can replace it later if need be. This way I can go ahead and reinstall the axle now and not have to wait for the new seal.
 
So I bolted awake at about 3am this morning when I remembered this:

View attachment 588226

So much for not damaging that seal when I removed it. Oh well, back to plan A.

:rolleyes:

well, the spring from the new one with wrong ID might work, but then you can't return it...

Edit: Also, if that's what is waking you up at night, life is good 👍
 
well, the spring from the new one with wrong ID might work, but then you can't return it...

Edit: Also, if that's what is waking you up at night, life is good 👍

I actually thought about that Mike, and gave it a try this morning, but the diameter on the "new" seal spring was just a bit too large.

The new seal is not returnable anyway, as it was installed and removed. But, I do expect ECGS to replace it.

But nothing on this rig is simple. I ran down to my local NAPA this morning as they had a seal in stock ($48 Ryan :oops: ) - but when I got there the measurements were exactly same as the ECGS seal which does not fit. And in fact, I can't find a seal with the proper 2.205 inner diameter to match the yoke. I'll talk to ECGS tomorrow see if we can figure it out. The yoke I have came from them as well, so they should have a matching seal - it just delays me for a bit.

I ordered the exact same install kit that I ordered from ECGS when I built this thing in '21, but the seal is definitely different. Hopefully it was just a packing mistake.
 
Would a seal from a different year 14blt work? Older 70's 3/4" ton vs 1 ton or newer models?

No idea. The 14 bolt is out of a 2003 Chevy 2500 HD. This is the first I’ve had an issue with that seal. I’m sure ECHS will have an answer.
 
My hammer drawer suddenly feels very deficient…
Heck, I thought it was cool that I even had a hammer drawer.

We all strive to be as organized as Jeff but then posts something like this and makes the rest of us feel so under worthy....
 
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I’m pretty sure @starkey480 built up the bottom of his diff by welding and that it was supposed to be stronger.

Jeff, that dimpling pattern looks fantastic even though it will never be seen 🤞.

You could build it up by padding some welds then capping with hard facing rods. I recommend building up layers of 7018, then no more than two layers with Stoody 35 rods. As far as it being stronger...in theory yes, but heat treatment is key. @starkey480 could give you the best real world testing results

Thanks for the reminder--Starkey's thread was where I read it at.

@mrblaine gave me the idea for that and it’s been holding up great with plenty of use. Grind some notches to give the weld something to bite and fill with as many weld layers as you need. I clamped a piece of aluminum to the face of the diff so I could weld right up to it as well. The welds should be harder than the original cast.
 
Well, since I had an afternoon to kill waiting for this seal issue, just for Scott I built an organizer rack for one of my hammer drawers:

View attachment 588313

😉

If it can’t be fixed with a hammer, you’ve got an electrical problem.

That drawer brings new meaning to the phrase, “hammer mechanic”!