The Official Tummy Tuck FAQ Thread

Well you can do whatever you want, but I am doing a body lift, mml and woody shafts. But I live 1.2 miles from tom’s shop with a UCF skid. Tim
 
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I don't see why you wouldn't be able to. The MML is used to decrease the rear DS angle and in turn the pinion angle. With the increased length of the LJ driveshaft, you may be fine. If it was me I'd order a JKS MML off amazon, install the tummy tuck, if were no vibrations return the mml. That way you at least have it on hand if you need it.


Amazon currently has an open box mml for a decent amount off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TTZF52/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
I don't see why you wouldn't be able to. The MML is used to decrease the rear DS angle and in turn the pinion angle. With the increased length of the LJ driveshaft, you may be fine. If it was me I'd order a JKS MML off amazon, install the tummy tuck, if were no vibrations return the mml. That way you at least have it on hand if you need it.


Amazon currently has an open box mml for a decent amount off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TTZF52/?tag=wranglerorg-20
That's a good idea. I knew the MML is need on a TJ for the reasons you mentioned, but I figured on a LJ it probably isn't needed. I'm looking at the UCF skid that doesn't require a body lift and retains the factory transmission mount.
 
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Without reading through 17 pages... Is it possible to to do a TT on a LJR without doing a MML?

why would you though? I found the MML no more difficult to install (the second time I did one) than removing the radiator shroud and putting new holes in it to line up with the fan.

I guess if you've already done the work to move the shroud...
 
why would you though? I found the MML no more difficult to install (the second time I did one) than removing the radiator shroud and putting new holes in it to line up with the fan.

I guess if you've already done the work to move the shroud...
To be honest, I am trying to lessen the angle on the front driveshaft output yoke on the tcase. My thought process could be wrong but just doing a TT only would increase my rear output angle (which doesn't matter since I have a LJ) but would decrease the front angle. If I would also install a MML it would be no different than where I'm at already.
 
To be honest, I am trying to lessen the angle on the front driveshaft output yoke on the tcase. My thought process could be wrong but just doing a TT only would increase my rear output angle (which doesn't matter since I have a LJ) but would decrease the front angle. If I would also install a MML it would be no different than where I'm at already.
there's some trigonometry involved there. It'll move the angle of your front output yoke closer to horizontal which by itself would decrease the operating angle of the cardan joint, but raising it 2+" will also increase the angle of your driveshaft which will INcrease the operating angle of the cardan joint. So you'll be making 2 opposing adjustments and I don't immediately know which will win out. But either way, you are correct that a MML would definitely NOT move you in the direction you're wanting to go.
 
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there's some trigonometry involved there. It'll move the angle of your front output yoke closer to horizontal which by itself would decrease the operating angle of the cardan joint, but raising it 2+" will also increase the angle of your driveshaft which will INcrease the operating angle of the cardan joint. So you'll be making 2 opposing adjustments and I don't immediately know which will win out. But either way, you are correct that a MML would definitely NOT move you in the direction you're wanting to go.
I'd didn't think about it raising the front as well, so thanks for pointing that out. Goal for me is try and get the front output yoke close to horizontal. I'll have to check and see how much the UCF (No body lift version) actually lifts everything.
 
there's some trigonometry involved there. It'll move the angle of your front output yoke closer to horizontal which by itself would decrease the operating angle of the cardan joint, but raising it 2+" will also increase the angle of your driveshaft which will INcrease the operating angle of the cardan joint. So you'll be making 2 opposing adjustments and I don't immediately know which will win out. But either way, you are correct that a MML would definitely NOT move you in the direction you're wanting to go.
UCF got back to me and said the Skid that doesn't require a body lift will lift the transfer case by 1.25".
 
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I read a lot of the thread but not every page, so apologies if this has been answered already. Is there a maximum suspension lift anybody has found in combination with a TT? I ask because I have Currie 3" springs that I suspect are netting me closer to 4" in the rear, and a Savvy TT which is pretty freakin' flat. My drive shaft angle at the double carden is pretty steep.
 
My driveshaft angle is 22.5*, which is as steep as I’ve seen. 4 1/4” suspension lift. When you use a SS SYE you’re driveshaft is about 19” long, which is far better than the stock 12 5/8”. You’re biggest trouble seems to be the rear TB crashing into the GTSkid.
 
I read a lot of the thread but not every page, so apologies if this has been answered already. Is there a maximum suspension lift anybody has found in combination with a TT? I ask because I have Currie 3" springs that I suspect are netting me closer to 4" in the rear, and a Savvy TT which is pretty freakin' flat. My drive shaft angle at the double carden is pretty steep.
Mine is at 4" of spring with the Savvy skid. Mine is a Rubicon, which might be the worst setup for the driveshaft. So far, so good after about 4 years. This isn't an uncommon combination.
 
Thanks guys, that makes me feel a little better. No vibes, just steep angles and a very hot double carden joint. I will add that I'm running the AA SYE, not the super short, and I have an 8.8 which is not only low pinion, but also offset more than factory all of which add to the angle. Does anybody else's double carden joint get pretty hot after driving?
 
Thanks guys, that makes me feel a little better. No vibes, just steep angles and a very hot double carden joint. I will add that I'm running the AA SYE, not the super short, and I have an 8.8 which is not only low pinion, but also offset more than factory all of which add to the angle. Does anybody else's double carden joint get pretty hot after driving?
YOu could probably mock up a close approximation to the pinion and driveshaft angle with your AA SYE.

As for the 8.8, IDK, I only know that it's offset, a C-Clip axle, and frowned upon as a swap, but you already have it, and sometimes people find one for such a good deal it is worth it to them over going for a Dana 44. I don't think the offset portion is the cause of problems.

I don't know what the normal operating temp of a DC joint is. If we knew you could put a temperature gun on it and get an idea of it's running hot. Otherwise, it's pretty subjective. Sorry I'm not any more help.

You'll definitely need a rear angled adjustable trackbar bracket to keep the trackbar away from the GTS.
 
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Got the angled track bar mount. I'm using the Artec truss/mount kit for the 8.8. I do wish in retrospect I would have held out for a Dana 44 but I couldn't source one at the time. For the temp, I'll check it with a temp gun sometime soon, but too hot to touch for more than a second or so. Much hotter than the shaft itself.

But just hearing you guys have that much lift with a TT makes me feel better. I was tossing around the idea of shorter springs to get my angles down, but I'll hunt other things first. Just ordered a 1.5" MML from BrownDog to help straighten it out a little more (already running a 1' MML).
 
Got the angled track bar mount. I'm using the Artec truss/mount kit for the 8.8. I do wish in retrospect I would have held out for a Dana 44 but I couldn't source one at the time. For the temp, I'll check it with a temp gun sometime soon, but too hot to touch for more than a second or so. Much hotter than the shaft itself.

But just hearing you guys have that much lift with a TT makes me feel better. I was tossing around the idea of shorter springs to get my angles down, but I'll hunt other things first. Just ordered a 1.5" MML from BrownDog to help straighten it out a little more (already running a 1' MML).
I hope you have room for a 1.5" MML. You may have to modify the fan shroud just below the radiator hose to clear. Keep us posted. I don't recall anyone adding a 1.5" MML on the forum. Did you talk to Tim at Brown Dog about it? Curious.
 
Got the angled track bar mount. I'm using the Artec truss/mount kit for the 8.8. I do wish in retrospect I would have held out for a Dana 44 but I couldn't source one at the time. For the temp, I'll check it with a temp gun sometime soon, but too hot to touch for more than a second or so. Much hotter than the shaft itself.

But just hearing you guys have that much lift with a TT makes me feel better. I was tossing around the idea of shorter springs to get my angles down, but I'll hunt other things first. Just ordered a 1.5" MML from BrownDog to help straighten it out a little more (already running a 1' MML).
The 1.5" mml could cause interferences at the trans tunnel.
 
Electric fan so no worries there. Also 1.25" BL just for reference. I did talk to somebody there and they started by saying he didn't recommend a 1.5" or 2" mml......unless I had some weird setup like 4" lift and a tummy tuck or something lol. Well, yes, pretty much.

I checked clearance at the trans tunnel and have about 1.25" with my already installed 1" mml. I'm not afraid to do some precision clearancing with a BFH as well. Been there and done that before with my Skyrine. But since the mml is evidently measured at the front of there motor according to brown dog, it should always be less lift there at the trans tunnel.