Thanks for everyone's input. I'm still not sure yet myself. These are just assumptions and observations I've made. I'm installing a rear anti-rock (more on that soon @Trevlaw ), but I'm rethinking the swayloc... I get the feeling that with the high roll center geometry the jeep will be to stiff on road with the "street" setting and also too stiff off road with the "off road" setting. I'm thinking of running an anti rock front and rear, or possibly nothing in front. Theory is great, but seat time is king. I'll know after I wheel it a bunch.

So I may have a brand new, in an unopened box ORO swayloc for sale soon.
 
When doing custom builds like this, there will inevitably be "FUCK" moments.

Remember way back like two posts ago when I was feeling confident about my design and fully burned in the axle track bar mount?

...

:(
PXL_20220806_154750296.jpg



I really should have mocked up the passenger side. This would have been so easy to fix before it was welded up. I should be able to trim the tube out the back to 1/8" or so of the mount, and get a shorter bolt. I'm concerned that if I don't get the cut perfect, and its slightly angled, putting uneven stress on the bolt.
 
When doing custom builds like this, there will inevitably be "FUCK" moments.

Remember way back like two posts ago when I was feeling confident about my design and fully burned in the axle track bar mount?

...

:(
View attachment 348800


I really should have mocked up the passenger side. This would have been so easy to fix before it was welded up. I should be able to trim the tube out the back to 1/8" or so of the mount, and get a shorter bolt. I'm concerned that if I don't get the cut perfect, and its slightly angled, putting uneven stress on the bolt.

I'd check out McMaster to see if there's a different type of bolt that might fit better. Could you countersink the shock side of the tube and run a flat head screw nearly flush on the shock side, then the nut on the heim end?
 
When doing custom builds like this, there will inevitably be "FUCK" moments.

Remember way back like two posts ago when I was feeling confident about my design and fully burned in the axle track bar mount?

...

:(
View attachment 348800


I really should have mocked up the passenger side. This would have been so easy to fix before it was welded up. I should be able to trim the tube out the back to 1/8" or so of the mount, and get a shorter bolt. I'm concerned that if I don't get the cut perfect, and its slightly angled, putting uneven stress on the bolt.

Get a grade 8 button head and run the threads on the other side of the heim. At least try it before cutting
 
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Both great suggestions. Let me see what I can find as far as Tappered/buttonhead 3/4" grade 8 hardware.
 
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After additional measuring, even if the tube had no bolt ( or counter sunk bolt) it would still contact the spring on the coilover. Cutting is my only option. Oh well. Hopefully someone, somewhere reads this one day and doesn't make the same mistake. I've got some ideas for making sure the cut is square.
 
After additional measuring, even if the tube had no bolt ( or counter sunk bolt) it would still contact the spring on the coilover. Cutting is my only option. Oh well. Hopefully someone, somewhere reads this one day and doesn't make the same mistake. I've got some ideas for making sure the cut is square.

Wish you would've done this last week before I did the same thing on my lower shock mount, just with the caliper instead. One set of custom spacers and some fresh pads and rotors and it's got miles of room.

Sounds like you've got some quality time with a file ahead of you
 
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So this is what I came up with. I cut the tube with a standard cutting disc, angle grinder.
PXL_20220808_210549712.jpg


Used a square and sharpie to measure, mark and adjust with a flap disc. Frequent measurements and taking small bits at a time until I was close.

PXL_20220808_210606644.jpg


Then I took the 3/4 inch bolt, tac welded a washer to it (I had to use a step drill bit to get the hole exactly 3/4") and then made little sanding discs from adhesive backed paper. 80 grit. The little discs didn't have to be perfect, the tube is way smaller than the disc, so only the first 1/4" touches anyways.

PXL_20220808_210822464.jpg



After a little sanding, it looked like this...

PXL_20220808_212409416.jpg


And finally ended up like this...

PXL_20220808_214852354.jpg



Its not lathe perfect, but its pretty damn good.
 
So this is what I came up with. I cut the tube with a standard cutting disc, angle grinder.
View attachment 349427

Used a square and sharpie to measure, mark and adjust with a flap disc. Frequent measurements and taking small bits at a time until I was close.

View attachment 349428

Then I took the 3/4 inch bolt, tac welded a washer to it (I had to use a step drill bit to get the hole exactly 3/4") and then made little sanding discs from adhesive backed paper. 80 grit. The little discs didn't have to be perfect, the tube is way smaller than the disc, so only the first 1/4" touches anyways.

View attachment 349429


After a little sanding, it looked like this...

View attachment 349430

And finally ended up like this...

View attachment 349431


Its not lathe perfect, but its pretty damn good.

Awesome recovery! Looks like it beat cutting it out and starting over
 
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The finished product. I now have 1/4" clearance.

PXL_20220808_221328008.jpg



Since the bolt is about an inch shorter, should I just go ahead and make a front side of the mount and have double shear for more strength? Does the length of the bolt have anything to do with strength?
 
So this is what I came up with. I cut the tube with a standard cutting disc, angle grinder.

Used a square and sharpie to measure, mark and adjust with a flap disc. Frequent measurements and taking small bits at a time until I was close.

Then I took the 3/4 inch bolt, tac welded a washer to it (I had to use a step drill bit to get the hole exactly 3/4") and then made little sanding discs from adhesive backed paper. 80 grit. The little discs didn't have to be perfect, the tube is way smaller than the disc, so only the first 1/4" touches anyways.

After a little sanding, it looked like this...

And finally ended up like this..

Its not lathe perfect, but its pretty damn good.
Very clever solution! Nice work
 
On to more things to adjust. When driver side is full bump, there is significant interference (about 1.25 inches) with the tire and coil over when turned full driver. I can lean the tower up towards plumb slightly... but

PXL_20220812_141408557.jpg


when driver is full droop the coil over is within 1/4" of the frame... so
I'll have to move the axle side coil over mount out at tad... but
I don't have the brake hardware yet to see if there is caliper clearance. I "think" there is room

I'm also planning on KMC grenade crawl wheels which have 3.5" backspacing which will get me really close to not having interference. But the wheels and tires I've been using for mock up are only 37 x 12.50 and I've ordered 40 x 13.50 Nittos. The wider tire will take away from that clearance. Its going to be a balancing act to get just enough room for the tire, brakes, coil overs ect.

Well, everything is going to be very close and I can't do much without having some more parts.

So I've started mocking up the bump stops.
 
So, its become obvious, that I'm going to need wheels with more backspacing. I've always intended on bead locks anyways so i ordered up some KMC grenade crawl wheels... in the machined finish.

PXL_20220813_224716903.jpg


I've loved the look of these wheels since the first time I saw them!
 
So, its become obvious, that I'm going to need wheels with more backspacing. I've always intended on bead locks anyways so i ordered up some KMC grenade crawl wheels... in the machined finish.

View attachment 350734

I've loved the look of these wheels since the first time I saw them!

I really like both the Grenade and Machete wheels