You're reinventing the wheel and solving problems that other's with bigger builds don't have.
The Official Tummy Tuck FAQ Thread
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Could be. But also could be the combo of lift, low pinion, offset 8.8, and not SS SYE are all just enough to make my angle just a little too much. I hope you are right though and I'm either worried about nothing or missing something else.
Here is the one issue you might encounter. And it is one that is mostly seen on a Rubicon and also not discussed often enough. Check the rear drive shaft at full shock extension to make sure the drive shaft will still spin. Unbolt the shaft at the diff, hang the axle from the shocks and reattach the driveshaft. Turn 90deg and try again. If you can't easily reattach, there is bind.
Mine starts to bind at about 5.5" of droop from ride height. That seems to be where it happens. My answer was to add a center limit strap between the diff and shock mount crossmember.
I think what you describe is almost certainly what killed my last driveshaft shortly after completing the TT. It esploaded just on one of the several short drives trying to dial in the angle. There was obvious mechanical interference that occurred in the double carden that the local shop said looked like it happened before it grenaded (and probably caused it) but couldn't say for sure. They clearanced it more to prevent a reoccurrence and my vibes disappeared with the new shaft, so O think they were right. That was on the street and I think speaks to how much angle I have. I'll do the test you suggest next week.
The 1.25” BL is designed to go with the 1” MML. I don’t think it will affect the transmission tunnel clearance, the main issue is the TCase when you do a full TT. You should not need to clearance. If you do, somethings wrong.
Sounds like you should do a SS SYE and get a longer driveshaft or swap out the 8.8 for a Dana 44 to avoid the offset.
I have an atlas that I will be installing in the lj, not sure how it will pan out with the tunnel
I think I remember @Alex01 sayong that he thinks he could do a full tuck with his atlas if he clocked it right. Might take some work. Correct me if I’m wrong
Assuming a BL is installed the ultra clearance would fit perfectly. You'd likely need to clock the atlas to the 7 or 13-degree mark though.
I say this because the difference between the ultra clearance and no BL skid, from UCF, is 1". @DrDmoney got his atlas to fit by clocking the atlas in the NO BL version. So if you add 1.25" from a BL and raise the skid 1" the atlas should be very happy.
My main concern would be the front driveshaft angle. Likely would be fine but worse case hubs may be needed.
As @Alex01 said, mine is clocked at 7 degrees, no BL, no MML, and the UCF skid is 2” below the frame. The tub requires some body hammer love and trimming for shift linkage clearance. One thing to note is the more you clock it towards 0° the steeper your front driveshaft angle will be, my front diff is a high pinion G2 Core 44 so all that was needed was a shorter shaft and no other adjustments, like @Alex01 said a low pinion will probably work with a lot more adjustments or require hubs.
Some observations that I have made are:
1. To clock the atlas at 0° (Optimal for a perfectly flat tummy) you need a body lift and some modifications to the tunnel at the driver side floor pan.
2. A high pinion front diff and/or hubs to avoid caster issues, vibes, or changes to steering/suspension geometry.
3. A MML puts the Atlas closer to the tub and increases the front DS angle so if not needed for suspension clearance it might be better eliminated.
4. Exhaust will need modification period.
5. The Atlas can be modified with trimming and countersunk flathead fasteners to gain more clearance at the skid.
6. Transmission mounting clearance comes into play below 7° clocked.
I have a 30 and a 44 high pinion, mml and a body lift so it sounds like a little massage of the tub and all will be good after a trip to Tom woods shop. Thanks, tim
Tim_with_the_tj
TJ Enthusiast
Well, I just went down that rabbit hole.
Just ordered the UCF no body lift transfer case/engine skid plates from UCF, Advance Adapters slip yoke eliminator from Summit Racing and the SAAY cable shifter kit from Amazon. I will order the new drive shaft from Tom Woods after I have installed everything. One note about the SAAY off road shift cable is that I tried to order from them on the web site. After entering all of my information and hitting complete order the system just locks up. I have sent an email/called and text and NO reply from them after 3 days now. So, with that said I have ordered the shift cable from Amazon. I do not know why SAAY Off Road customer service is so poor.
Just ordered the UCF no body lift transfer case/engine skid plates from UCF, Advance Adapters slip yoke eliminator from Summit Racing and the SAAY cable shifter kit from Amazon. I will order the new drive shaft from Tom Woods after I have installed everything. One note about the SAAY off road shift cable is that I tried to order from them on the web site. After entering all of my information and hitting complete order the system just locks up. I have sent an email/called and text and NO reply from them after 3 days now. So, with that said I have ordered the shift cable from Amazon. I do not know why SAAY Off Road customer service is so poor.
Sounds like you've got some fun work cutout. Savvy is a small shop, if anything is going on it can be tough to get ahold of anybody. If you have any problems with the install or the kit there are plenty of people here to help.
Getting way ahead of my build, but I like having a vague notion of the road ahead before charging forward so I started putting together a parts list for this. Got the BL, MML, DS and SYE, yada yada yada.
Then I get to skid plates and armor. Google Fu working I come across the Teraflex Belly Up Skid Plate. Watch the video and "WHAT? I can be rid of the shovel for NOT $2500 (full Savvy control arm set)?"
TO THE FORUM! Searched for the Teraflex skid plate which ultimately lead me to the UCF plate(s). Seems like both achieve what the tummy tuck intended but for a much more economical approach.
My question is this: for a largely street and fire trail Jeep with a 2" suspension lift and 31s (maybe 33s when the 31s die and after a BL and MML), would the Teraflex or UCF plates (needing only a MML or BL, respectively, which were likely going on anyway) be a viable option for increasing ground clearance without necessitating the purchase of a new driveshaft, SYE, adjustable control arms, and and and or would all the other stuff be needed anyway?
Then I get to skid plates and armor. Google Fu working I come across the Teraflex Belly Up Skid Plate. Watch the video and "WHAT? I can be rid of the shovel for NOT $2500 (full Savvy control arm set)?"
TO THE FORUM! Searched for the Teraflex skid plate which ultimately lead me to the UCF plate(s). Seems like both achieve what the tummy tuck intended but for a much more economical approach.
My question is this: for a largely street and fire trail Jeep with a 2" suspension lift and 31s (maybe 33s when the 31s die and after a BL and MML), would the Teraflex or UCF plates (needing only a MML or BL, respectively, which were likely going on anyway) be a viable option for increasing ground clearance without necessitating the purchase of a new driveshaft, SYE, adjustable control arms, and and and or would all the other stuff be needed anyway?