You aren't paying attention. A common angle for wood working is 90 degrees and metric flat head screws have a 90 degree angle. 82 degree is the common SAE angle.The joy of being a fastener pedantic.
Close enough is good enough?
Overland LJR built to explore and expedition
- Thread starter tomtaylz
- Start date
Close enough is good enough?
You'll have to see if there is enough room before the bend to get a typical bottom bearing router bit in there. If the base of the router is too big, it will hit the bend in the plate and cause a problem.Close enough is good enough?
Good point about the bend. I can think of a couple ways possible around that depending on the router base and the bit.
There does exist a top bearing inverted chamfer bit for a router. We use the machinist version to cut the taper in the bottom hole of our steering knuckles since it is wider at the top than the bottom.
That's a tough bit to find. It sounds like the easiest and most exciting option. Clamps would be a good idea!
What kind of terrain do you think you'll be draging your junk over that would warrant all that effort and added expense brah? It would take some serious effort to wear down a 10.9 metric cap screw to the point that it would be unremovable. Wouldn't the simpler solution be to just inspect your junk after a run if you thought you've dragged your skid. A couple bucks for some replacements would be hella cheaper.
At least in my case, I am dragging the bolt heads. Not dragging them would make the sliding that much easier. While it can be easily argued that it isn't really worth my time to address compared to other issues, I consider it a small and meaningful refinement that is within my grasp to do.
Another solution that I have considered is taking a piece of 1.5" wide x 1/4" thick 6061 T6, laying out the holes in the frame perfectly in it and then countersinking the holes. Seems counterintuitive but it would get rid of the hang points when you need to slide that area.
Not a bad idea at all. When it matters, I can see where a smooth sliding surface in that location would outweigh the small loss of clearance.
Only if this strip was welded to the main plate. The countersink allows it to be separate piece that is clamped to the skid.
Yes, you would have to tack them in place, or drill some holes and use some self taper button head screws to hold the plates in place.
The skid bolts will hold both in place easily. It is just a long skinny washer.
How about this?
The slots shouldn't matter for the specific TJ the skid is installed on. The 03-06 skid bolts are 12mm (0.472in) dia.
Take a 3/8" (0.375in) piloted countersink....
Drill America 3/8" X 3/8" 82 Degree Piloted Countersink, WEL Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FXOI4GK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
...and attach a length of brass(?) tube over the pilot, both to extend the pilot into the frame nutsert and to bring the OD closer to 12mm. Then countersink the slot right where the frame hole is.
Last edited:
Everything about the concept is correct. The issue is the hole in the nutsert below the threads is larger than the threads so that will have to be accounted for. Other than that, it should work.
Great! This is renewing my interest. I already have the bolts sitting in a box. This may turn into a separate thread soon so that Tom can have his build thread back!
Good idea...except for that head angle thing...Here is a diagram for a Metric Flat SHCS and they specify 90-92 degrees included.
Edit: I suppose you can just smash it in there...but how do you know you're developing torque in the threaded area and not due to the mis-match of the head angle?
If they are metric, they will be 90-92 degrees. That is the standard. If you've replaced your nutserts with Imperial threads, then they'll be 80-84 degrees.
Similar threads
