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jjvw

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Okay so this is as close as I can get to full compression of the shock and still being able to turn the tire by hand @10psi. So this is when I'd want to space the shock top mount down a little bit (rather than just using bumpstop to stop the uptravel) to maximize usable travel?

View attachment 306027
That's what I would do. Bump to that shock length and then space the shock down a bit with a cup washer or two. You should have four from the old shocks.
 
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jjvw

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Okay cool, starting to understand what I'm going after here... Maximizing travel while preventing interference. Takes more thought than just adding bump til nothing touches that shouldn't
You're most of the way towards understanding an outboard. 😉
 
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lBasket

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You're most of the way towards understanding an outboard. 😉
Hahaha maybe one day. If I ever go to more lift I'll probably get a much better understanding, seems like there will be even more to consider at a higher lift
 
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Sweet, got some washers spacing the top mount and now I can spin the tire at full shock compression
PXL_20220131_020705982.jpg
And now my bump shifted and should be 1" now

PXL_20220131_020607526.jpg
So I just shifted unusable uptravel due to tire size to usable downtravel. Cool! And I'm guessing when I get my body lift I can remove the spacers and redo all this.

So uh, how do I attach anything to the bottom spring perch? I figured that center divot had a screw I'd just use but nope...
I figured out how to read, I need to drill and tap through the center of the perch
 
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Back to checking for the driver's side. Definitely seems like the axle is pushed driver's side, no problems with clearance at all shock fully compressed, lock to lock.
PXL_20220201_041150300.jpg
Track bar clearance is close too. But doesn't touch!

Much less bump needed over here.

So, is there any problem with having spacers on passenger side and not driver? Or should I put the same spacer on top mount for driver even though it doesn't need it so it's symmetrical?
 

jjvw

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Back to checking for the driver's side. Definitely seems like the axle is pushed driver's side, no problems with clearance at all shock fully compressed, lock to lock.
View attachment 306317
Track bar clearance is close too. But doesn't touch!

Much less bump needed over here.

So, is there any problem with having spacers on passenger side and not driver? Or should I put the same spacer on top mount for driver even though it doesn't need it so it's symmetrical?
I've always made both sides the same.
 
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Any reason to not just use butt or bullet connectors + heat shrink to splice on the new speedo pigtail?
 

tworley

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Any reason to not just use butt or bullet connectors + heat shrink to splice on the new speedo pigtail?
I'd use a butt connector before using a bullet connector. Less chance of the connection actually coming apart. I cannot remember where I got mine at (somewhere online I think) but they are butt connectors with heat shrink on the outside. So crimp together, add heat and its a sealed connection. I havent had any issues for a number of years since installing.
 
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I'd use a butt connector before using a bullet connector. Less chance of the connection actually coming apart. I cannot remember where I got mine at (somewhere online I think) but they are butt connectors with heat shrink on the outside. So crimp together, add heat and its a sealed connection. I havent had any issues for a number of years since installing.
My coworker convinced me now is a good time to buy a soldering iron so I guess that's what I'm going to end up going with haha
 

rasband

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My coworker convinced me now is a good time to buy a soldering iron so I guess that's what I'm going to end up going with haha
Generally speaking you don't want to solder wires in an automotive application, barring a few special scenarios. The wire fatigue will eventually cause issues since solder gets into the strands and doesn't let the wire move freely.

Tell your coworker, diplomatically, that they're wrong. :)
 
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Generally speaking you don't want to solder wires in an automotive application, barring a few special scenarios. The wire fatigue will eventually cause issues since solder gets into the strands and doesn't let the wire move freely.

Tell your coworker, diplomatically, that they're wrong. :)
Oh wow okay, I figured it would be better for resisting pulling apart from vibrations. Definitely good to know!
 
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JMT

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Get that bad boy installed. I'll give you 12 minutes!
 
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