Basket's Build
- Thread starter lBasket
- Start date
That wasn't a secret. We made it very clear, but very few believed us.
Connector isn't here yet! It took a vacation in Florida apparently. So I get to put the skid back on take it back off when it shows up I guess! Can't wait to replace this bent up piece of crap
Driveshaft on da way from Tom woods
I'm thinking I'll cycle the front suspension and set bumpstops but I can't dial in the control arms in back until the driveshaft gets here and can't cycle it til I get the new track bar
Driveshaft on da way from Tom woods
I'm thinking I'll cycle the front suspension and set bumpstops but I can't dial in the control arms in back until the driveshaft gets here and can't cycle it til I get the new track bar
Soo when I am checking to set bumpstop do I want to lift just one side of the axle at a time? Or from the center? Or maybe both and pick the max bumpstop required for both?
I set the fronts both independently at full articulation. Make sure though that they'll still work at full bump though because fill articulation may allow to to go a bit shorter than you should. (Fast driving offroad and hit a whoop you'll need full bump. Flexing you'll need full articulation. )
Ah okay so make sure bump isn't too short with both sides pushed up?
Sweet, get creative.
Discovery #1 is I should've installed those YJ brake lines I bought after all, drives side with passenger where full bump is going to end up needing to be, full lock:
Looks like I need 1" of bumpstop over here. That's nice i wasn't excited to try to to cut a hockey puck in half with a hacksaw
I read on the how-to guide I want set bump so there's ~1/4" left of shock, so I backed off a bit after it bottomed out. Is that right?
Okay this is what I get fully compressed. Will the jounce fill that space or will it compress farther than that?
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