SSTJ's '97 SE 2.5

SSTJ

———
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2019
Messages
3,321
Location
South Carolina
Joined in 2020 as novice. Here are some threads I try to manage:




This thread is for notes more than updates. Keeping it close to stock anyway. Table of contents below:

 
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Nothing wrong with a mostly stock 4 cylinder. IF you go up in tire size at ALL make sure you think about a gear change. Even 31" tires you want to regear the axles.

Just remember to keep it as light as you can and don't add anything that weighs a lot.
 
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SHOCKS

Notes below are for a minor lift on a stock-light SE, running 31" tires of smaller, and driving primarily on-road.

For others' opinions on the best approach, see here.

———

OPTIONS


Shock
Type​
Front Part #
Front Extended
Front Compressed
Front Travel
Rear Part #
Rear Extended
Rear Compressed
Rear Travel
Stock / OEM
Hydraulic
Twin-Tube​
?​
20.5"​
13"​
7.5"​
???​
19.2"​
12.2"​
7"​
Monroe "OEM"
Hydraulic
Twin-Tube​
37026​
20.375"​
12.875"​
7.5"​
37135​
19.625"​
12.5"​
7.125"
Rancho 5000X
Gas_Charged
(150 psi)​
RS55128​
21.03"​
13.05"​
7.98"​
RS55240​
20.04"​
12.76"​
7.28"
Bilstein 5100s
Gas_Charged
(??? psi)​
24-293099​
20.94"​
13.06"​
7.88"​
24-293105​
19.96"​
12.81"​
7.15"
Skyjacker BlackMax
Hydraulic
Twin-Tube​
B8516​
22.3"​
13.52"​
8.78"​
B8508​
19.32"​
12.01"​
7.31"​

All quite similar, usually advertized as 0"–1" lift or 0"–2" lift.

———

INSTALL


  • Bought Rancho RS5000X, advertised for 0"–2" of lift. RS55240 in the rear, and RS55128 up front.
  • @TJim calculated here and here that they're ideal for 1–1.5" of lift in front and 0.5–1" in back.
  • They ride like my previous OEM replacements. Maybe the praise comes from owners of heavier 4.0 models.
  • Watching this, this, and this for reviews of BlackMax. This thread suggests may be smoother.
 
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Rust​


Coating: A "coating" is anything designed to do nothing more than protect the bare steel from being exposed to elements. Sometimes just a layer of paint, sometimes a “rubberizer undercoating”, etc. Either way, just a coating, usually black, the purpose of which is to protect the steel from the elements. Better than nothing, and can do some good if used from day one (before any rust develops), and if regularly maintained. Drawbacks: if not applied correctly, or if not maintained, can allow moisture to creep in past the barrier, and then trap that moisture inside. Then it grows unnoticed. Furthermore, if rust has already developed, a 'coating’ will do nothing to treat the existing rust or stop it from growing underneath the coating. So, perhaps used best/only as a short-term preventative on some perfectly rust-free steel.

Converting: Anything designed to convert existing rust through a permanent, chemical reaction. Sometimes advertised for preparing a rusted surface to be painted, or for simply stopping rust in its tracks. Eastwood’s products are good examples. Their “Rust Converter” product is designed to ‘convert’ areas with heavier amounts of rust. Their “Rust Encapsulator” is designed for areas of lighter, surface-rust, or for areas that you have been able to scrub and prep pretty well. Their “Internal Frame Coating”, is a bit of a combination product: part converter, part encapsulator. It’s intended to be an all-in-one product for treating and sealing the inside of rusty frames, where you can’t easily prep the surfaces or check in on it regularly. Finally, POR-15 also belongs in this category. It is perhaps best compared to Eastwood’s Rust Encapsulator. One main difference is in the curing process (waters speeds it up for POR-15), and also in the prep-work (POR-15 requires more, and is reportedly difficult to work with).

Creeping/Healing Seals: Anything designed to spread after application. Similarly, if ever rubbed away in small amounts, the surrounding area "self-heals" by creeping back over the bare areas. Fluid Film has an active ingredient of lanolin. It creates an oily/waxy moisture barrier that will prevent any water from reaching the steel it protects. It never quite dries, and remains somewhat sticky/tacky for however long it stays on the surface. But this also means it's not permanent. How long it stays on the surface is determined by how often it gets pulled through mud, rubbed against rocks, pressure-washed, etc. So, must be re-applied on some kind of regular basis. Eastwood also offers a product “Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust”, which fits this category. And finally, New Hampshire Oil Undercoating (NHOU) seems to be another, very similar product.

Notes:
  • Others' opinions are here and here.
  • Buy a scope to check the inside of the frame. Buy a sewer jetter to clean it out.
  • Consider drilling 1/2" holes in the frame, about an inch inside each control arm mount (like this).
  • Good discussion (with pics) on applying Fluid Film here. Don't forget to tape the holes.
  • Discussion on removing Fluid Film, to apply Eastwood, here.
 
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Specs​

  • 1997 TJ SE
  • PR4 "Flame Red" Exterior
  • K5 Seat Style and T6 "Saddle Tan" Interior
    • Carpet: ACC says 4640 (dark saddle) and 9777 (medium beige) were original. 7140 (medium saddle) matched better.
    • Plastic: SEM 15033 "Saddle Tan" is not a match for T6. T6 "mix code" is 4976, but SEM 15173 is very close.

  • 2.5L I-4 Power Tech:
    • 120hp @5400
    • 140 ft-lbs @3500
  • AX-5 Manual Trans:
    • 21-spline output; 14-spline input
    • 1st: 3.93, 2nd: 2.33, 3rd: 1.45
    • 4th: 1.00, 5th: 0.85, Rev: 4.74
  • NP231J Transfer Case
    • 27-spline output; 23-spline input
    • Hi: 1, Lo: 2.72
    • Torque Capacity: 1,885 ft-lbs
  • 4.11 Rear Axle Ratio
  • 14.8 Total "Crawl" Ratio
    • (Transmission 1st Gear x Transfer Case x Axle-Gear)
  • Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
  • Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle

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Comms​


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Audio​


Head Unit:
  • "RAZ" CD + Cassette. Not original to the TJ.

  • About OEM heed units:
    • Here is a thread about going back to stock.
    • Early OEM units had "twin-7" plugs. Later TJs came with "data stream" plugs.
    • RAS, RAZ, RBP, RBB are the option codes. 1FactoryRadio says RAZ (CD and Cassette) were more reliable.
    • 97–02 'square' style came as AM/FM/CD or AM/FM/CD/EQ or AM/FM/CD/AUX or AM/FM/CD/CS (RAZ).
    • 03–06 'round' style came as AM/FM/CD or AM/FM/CD (digital) or AM/FM/CD(MP3) or AM/FM/CS/CD (RAZ).
    • External disc changers described here.
    • Fix for sticky volume knob is described here.

  • Mods for OEM head units:
    • 1FactoryRadio sells refurbished and modified versions of all units listed above.
    • Here is a great thread about making the most of a setup with OEM head unit.
    • GROM makes USB, Aux, Bluetooth, and hands-free adapters for OEM units after 2002.
    • Here and here are a streaming connectors for the later TJ years. Here is a thread on installing one.
    • Here is an install of aux input into the CD port. Here are more details. Here is a similar product.
    • Here is how to add Bluetooth the hard way, overriding the CD player.
      • Here is another write-up.
      • Here is an improvement.
    • Here and here are details on adding Bluetooth (or anything really) by hijacking one CD slot in an OEM multi-disc changer.
    • Finally, here and here are great walk-throughs for disassembling the RAZ model. Here is a guide to troubleshooting "ERR".



Amps:
  • Helpful threads about bluetooth amps are here and here.
  • There is no need to upgrade factory speaker wire when installing an amp (here).
  • Other than the center console, the steering column is a popular location. See here and here.



Speakers:
  • Dash:
    • Many forum members rave about Polks, but I share Skrelnik's opinion here.
    • 5.25s can be mounted with adapter plates or pods.
      • Details for 97–99 models here.
      • Another pod design can be 3D printed here. Printing options here.
      • As mentioned here, the eBay 3D printed does not fit a 97. Select Increments does.
    • Tweeters options are described here.
      • Tweeter mount options can be found in various places on the forum. See these from @112dB.

  • Sound Bar:
    • Accepts 5.25" speakers, but can also accept some 6.5"s.
    • RF Prime 6.75" duals did not fit. See table below.
    • Noico can be applied inside sound bar, along with polyfill.

  • Speaker Selection: For mid-range aftermarket speakers, capable of being driven by stock stereo or a basic amp:



Subwoofers:



Sound Deadening:
  • Noico 80 mil butyl mat is popular on the forum. Diminishing returns after 50% coverage.
  • Mass-loaded vinyl goes over Noico for better results. Should be separated from sheetmetal by foam (see pics).
  • Hood Liner can help with engine noise.
    • See here about options.
    • MLV in engine bay is discussed here.

Noico

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Closed-Cell Foam

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Mass-Loaded Vinyl

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Bed Carpet​
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Wheel Well Carpet​
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Seat Rattle Fix

  • Passenger seat was rattling. Asked about it here and initially tried this approach.
  • Looked into "Stable Seat" bushing, but they are no longer being sold.
  • Considered this or this DIY approach, then found this product with good reviews.
  • Learned here and here that the product doesn't work on all 97 seats.
  • Started this thread to determine whether I have a 'quirky' 97. Seemed not.
  • Bought the product and installed. Learned that I had other 'quirks', which I posted about here.
  • Learned more recently that Summit now makes a set of bushings. Have not tried them.

  • Here is what worked for my 97:
    • Rear Bolt​
      Channel / Groove​
      Front Button​
      Front Bushing​
      The bolt on this 97 is a T40, like other models. The head is 0.75". But the shank is thicker (0.5") than on other models, so a flanged bushing isn't needed. Still takes a nylon washer.
      The groove on this 97 is 0.5" tall, like other models. Some 97s have a shorter groove, which is why some aftermarket kits don't fit.

      The 'button' for the front bushing is 0.5" wide at the flange, and 0.25" wide at the shank, and 0.25" deep. Aftermarket spacer had to be trimmed down in length.

      Aftermarket bushing was 0.5" ID and 0.75" OD. Didn't make firm contact, and the seat still rattled. Replaced with a nylon bushing of 0.535" ID, 0.865" OD, and 0.25" L.

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When I get some time I plan to organize my build a little better. Very nicely done!
 
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Did you complete the install of the aux reverse lights in the stock bumper?

How did you wire them and which lights did you use?

Nope, I’ve been picky about the exact lights I wanted to get. They should arrive soon. I wanted to stick with an original halogen look. Found some rectangular fog lights off an XJ. Will mount on back bumper.

Haven’t done the wiring yet but plan on posting that here when I do. You doing a similar job right now?

Edit: Oh yea from this thread. No, no progress yet but I hope to pick up on it soon. I will be doing a fairly simple wiring set up, just with a toggle switch. I don’t think I want them coming on every time I go into reverse.
 
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Organization that I will never have. This is great. Thanks for consolidating your progress, links and references in one place!
 
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Nope, I’ve been picky about the exact lights I wanted to get. They should arrive soon. I wanted to stick with an original halogen look. Found some rectangular fog lights off an XJ. Will mount on back bumper.

Haven’t done the wiring yet but plan on posting that here when I do. You doing a similar job right now?

Edit: Ohyea from this thread. No, no progress yet but I hope to pick up on it soon. I will be doing a fairly simple wiring set up, just with a toggle switch. I don’t think I want them coming on every time I go into reverse.
Yep... Still sorting out the parts I need.

I just finished the DIY switch panel using two OE cig lighter/switch banks, so I have six available since I am not using the rear wiper or defroster grid.

I was set on using the GC switches, but now am exploring the NiLite illuminated switches.

Doing the front aux driving lights this weekend (Hella 500FF).

On a different note... I have a Build Log going in an outside app. Going to transfer it here using your layout. Can you still edit the first post to add to the ToC or does post #1 get locked for editing?
 
Yep... Still sorting out the parts I need.

I just finished the DIY switch panel using two OE cig lighter/switch banks, so I have six available since I am not using the rear wiper or defroster grid.

I was set on using the GC switches, but now am exploring the NiLite illuminated switches.

Doing the front aux driving lights this weekend (Hella 500FF).

On a different note... I have a Build Log going in an outside app. Going to transfer it here using your layout. Can you still edit the first post to add to the ToC or does post #1 get locked for editing?

No, you can always go back and edit, which I do all the time! Sounds like by the time I get around to doing these lights, I'll just check your build thread to learn what I need to know.
 
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Wanted to reach out and say thank you for asking questions I have had. I've owned my Jeep for about 3 months and have been lurking, reading, learning. I often come across (just did which is what prompted this) you asking a question I had. Thanks for asking the questions you have. It's been immensely helpful (y)
 
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....Sounds like by the time I get around to doing these lights, I'll just check your build thread to learn what I need to know.
I keep my build info on my local drive and don't update here too often. But remembering that you were doing the reverse light mod at some point, I figured I would post it here for your reference...

2022-04-25 TJ Aux Reverse Lights 01.jpg


Night and day.. literally. Wired them to the Auxbeam 8 gang switch panel. Ran the wire down from the switch controller mounted in the engine bay, through the passenger side frame rail and out to a waterproof quick disconnect at the rear bumper.
 
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I keep my build info on my local drive and don't update here too often. But remembering that you were doing the reverse light mod at some point, I figured I would post it here for your reference...

View attachment 328470

Night and day.. literally. Wired them to the Auxbeam 8 gang switch panel. Ran the wire down from the switch controller mounted in the engine bay, through the passenger side frame rail and out to a waterproof quick disconnect at the rear bumper.

Nice, thanks. I look forward to getting around to this sometime soon.
 
Wanted to reach out and say thank you for asking questions I have had. I've owned my Jeep for about 3 months and have been lurking, reading, learning. I often come across (just did which is what prompted this) you asking a question I had. Thanks for asking the questions you have. It's been immensely helpful (y)

Ha, that's great to hear. It's so helpful when you come across a thread asking your exact question. I'm usually just worried about wearing out my welcome with all of mine ...
 
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